R/R replacement
#1
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SuperSport
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Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Santa Fe, New Mexico
Posts: 582
R/R replacement
My shiny new R1 regulator/rectifier just arrived with the connecter kit. I'm so happy! One thing, it is exactly like the photo here and ebay of the FHO 12AA but the marking on the side reads, FHO20AA. Have I made a mistake? The seller lists it as FHO12AA.
from listing on ebay: Yamaha R1 rectifier regulator voltage Reg 1D7-81960-00-00 FH012AA
numbers on part: FHO20AA
2.3 281 F
from listing on ebay: Yamaha R1 rectifier regulator voltage Reg 1D7-81960-00-00 FH012AA
numbers on part: FHO20AA
2.3 281 F
Last edited by twist; 08-07-2012 at 09:08 AM. Reason: ad information
#9
that looks heavy duty.
here in the UK we are advised to go for a honda cg125 rectifier that appears to be a straight plug in option, but is a finned version that seems to work and solves the over heating issue.
mine only has the 1 plug, yours looks a lot bigger. do you connect both plugs? does your bike have 2 plugs into the original rectifier?
whatever the answer, I hope it's an easy install and it sorts your poblem
here in the UK we are advised to go for a honda cg125 rectifier that appears to be a straight plug in option, but is a finned version that seems to work and solves the over heating issue.
mine only has the 1 plug, yours looks a lot bigger. do you connect both plugs? does your bike have 2 plugs into the original rectifier?
whatever the answer, I hope it's an easy install and it sorts your poblem
#10
By whom?
And to answer your other questions, the original plug has five wires in it, the new one has a plug with three wires and a plug with two wires (totaling five). All the wires line up, you just have to install the new plugs.
If you can find time, read through tweety's MOSFET r/r thread and you'll have a lot of info on why this unit was chosen!
And to answer your other questions, the original plug has five wires in it, the new one has a plug with three wires and a plug with two wires (totaling five). All the wires line up, you just have to install the new plugs.
If you can find time, read through tweety's MOSFET r/r thread and you'll have a lot of info on why this unit was chosen!
#11
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Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Santa Fe, New Mexico
Posts: 582
By whom?
And to answer your other questions, the original plug has five wires in it, the new one has a plug with three wires and a plug with two wires (totaling five). All the wires line up, you just have to install the new plugs.
If you can find time, read through tweety's MOSFET r/r thread and you'll have a lot of info on why this unit was chosen!
And to answer your other questions, the original plug has five wires in it, the new one has a plug with three wires and a plug with two wires (totaling five). All the wires line up, you just have to install the new plugs.
If you can find time, read through tweety's MOSFET r/r thread and you'll have a lot of info on why this unit was chosen!
#12
I have read thru the thread the how and why R/R and the difference between mosfet and thyristor. I'm not dim but I didn't really digest all that information. I did get enough to understand the basics of why the mofset is better but most of it went right over my head. Does that make me a hopeless case?
Some people don't want to deal with adding new plugs, in which case it's fine. But if you don't mind going the extra step to ensure a much longer lasting R/R I wanted to point out that a MOSFET unit is better.
#13
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Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Santa Fe, New Mexico
Posts: 582
ready to install.
Haha, no not at all (I am by no means a guru, so can't be throwing stones)... and a new cg125 rectifier with fins is probably a better replacement for the OEM ones, I just wanted to add some clarification to what tasum was saying.
Some people don't want to deal with adding new plugs, in which case it's fine. But if you don't mind going the extra step to ensure a much longer lasting R/R I wanted to point out that a MOSFET unit is better.
Some people don't want to deal with adding new plugs, in which case it's fine. But if you don't mind going the extra step to ensure a much longer lasting R/R I wanted to point out that a MOSFET unit is better.
My cam chain tensioners should arrive today so I have enough to keep me busy. I'm glad the placement of the pos and neg for the R/R have been clarified. I like to be sure before I do a new task.
BTW, do the pistons have to be at TDC to replace the cct? If I pull the valve covers and zip tie the cam chain and sprockets so they can't move can I puul the old and install the new? I'm sure there is no other way than doing it the recommended way, just askin'.
#14
good to know. For me, upgrading the system makes sense and if making a few alterations along the way make things better, do it.
My cam chain tensioners should arrive today so I have enough to keep me busy. I'm glad the placement of the pos and neg for the R/R have been clarified. I like to be sure before I do a new task.
BTW, do the pistons have to be at TDC to replace the cct? If I pull the valve covers and zip tie the cam chain and sprockets so they can't move can I puul the old and install the new? I'm sure there is no other way than doing it the recommended way, just askin'.
My cam chain tensioners should arrive today so I have enough to keep me busy. I'm glad the placement of the pos and neg for the R/R have been clarified. I like to be sure before I do a new task.
BTW, do the pistons have to be at TDC to replace the cct? If I pull the valve covers and zip tie the cam chain and sprockets so they can't move can I puul the old and install the new? I'm sure there is no other way than doing it the recommended way, just askin'.
#15
Also, if you have the valve covers off already, setting TDC is elementary school simple. You just turn a bolt till some marks line up.
Bonus: you can check valve clearances while you're in there!
Bonus: you can check valve clearances while you're in there!
#16
My shiny new R1 regulator/rectifier just arrived with the connecter kit. I'm so happy! One thing, it is exactly like the photo here and ebay of the FHO 12AA but the marking on the side reads, FHO20AA. Have I made a mistake? The seller lists it as FHO12AA.
from listing on ebay: Yamaha R1 rectifier regulator voltage Reg 1D7-81960-00-00 FH012AA
numbers on part: FHO20AA
2.3 281 F
from listing on ebay: Yamaha R1 rectifier regulator voltage Reg 1D7-81960-00-00 FH012AA
numbers on part: FHO20AA
2.3 281 F
SHINDENGEN MOSFET FH020AA REGULATOR/RECTIFIER KIT REPLACES FH012AA | eBay
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