twist

I don't have any desire to start an oil thread but I do remember one I read recently about what motor oil riders think is best or like using the mnost. I did a search but came up with nothing. Can some one point me in the direction of the thread, threads discussing oil brands used in their bikes??

captainchaos

Here are a few good ones

Compare Olive Oil - Olive Oil Comparison

http://www.wholefoodsmarket.com/reci...s/cooking-oils

twist

while I love olive oil, I don't think it'll work in the VTR. I'm searching for a motor oil thread.

captainchaos

Sorry I couldn't help it. Seriously though try searching through these...

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...Board=9&page=1

twist

I seem to remember some one claiming to use fish oil in their forks!

smokinjoe73

How is it that oil threads are so cliche dime a dozen but then cant be found?

I searched high and low for oil but it was race oil and 0W10(full syn moto spec) so useless for the street.
I found it for $13/qut at motorcycle superstore I think.

Dont know about the thread but my research has resulted in the synthetic rotella (non resource conserving) from sprawlmart as the best bang for the buck. (and touted by alot of bikers) and in my hawk now.

twist

I am trying to remember what was said about mobil 1 synthetic. I bought some and noticed that it is SL, SM, SN rated and the recommended oil is SG rated. It is cage oil and I am not too sure I want to put it in my Hawk. Is motorcycle oil different from cage oil? I think it is but I seem to remember some one saying they liked the mobil 1 because it can be found almost anywhere.

smokinjoe73

See, thats why oil threads are nuts. So much speculation. Oil and rating change constantly. I put 96,000 miles on my cbr with mobil 1 syn but that was before the days of "energy/resource conserving" which seems to make them too slippery to work with motorcycle clutches (they slip).

Also cant withstand the sheer forces in the tranny which dont exist in cars.

The rotella I mentioned doesnt have the "resource conserving" tag so should be the least expensive non moto specific oil.

7moore7

+1



In a nutshell, if it says resource conserving like the pic above, it won't work with a wet clutch. If that area is blank, it will work. Anything beyond that can be discussed to the moon and back and you still wont have a definite answer.

I usually use the Honda recommended weight with a cheap oil like smokinjoe and change it regularly. If I use Mobile1 it seems to go longer without the transmission feeling clunky to me. I sleep well at night.

SL SM SN... these are generational classifications (think SG came before SH which came before SL). They are retro-applicable. So as long as you're using an oil that is at or later than the recommended level you'll be fine. If a car recommends SN, don't use SG, but the other way around is fine. Capsice?

Edit: I'll correct myself here SA-SE won't work in modern motors. They're formulated for motors that are from 1930-1970.

autoteach

the energy conserving has molybdenum disulfide in it IIRC. The clunkiness is from a lack of zinc phosphorous, which non motorcycle oil just doesn't have enough of for the trans. I got away from the rotella, delvac, delo because of this (although before testing the synthetic versions). I will just get cheap moto oil as it is better than cheaper non moto oil imo.

twist

for not wanting to start an oil thread this thread has kinda drifted that way. From what I've learned here, cage oil differs from moto oil in regard to the higher sulfur and zinc content. And the oil for better mileage will cause the clutch to slip. I don't want to cheap out but I want to find an oil I can find anywhere if I'm in need. Looks like mobil 1 synthetic for motorcycles. Most of the synth oils for moto's cost about the same. Car oil only in a pinch. I used dino motorcycle oil in my old beemer. Much cheaper than synth and the clutch was a dry clutch. The high sulfer content in some oils caused bearing failure so the oil had to be SG. My VTR is making me relearn oils and wet clutches. Syth oils cost more but are better and last longer, so I'm told. Thanks for all the great information. Still would like to find that thread tho.

mikstr

Virtually any HDEO oil (Rotella, Delvac,...) will get the job done, and for less money than motorcycle specific oils (while also being more resistant to shearing in many , if not most, cases). Mobil 1 15W50 also works although it is said to shear somewhat rapidly. Do not use any oil that says "energy conserving" on the lavbel (although IIRC, these are limited to XXW20 and XXW30 weight oils).

Later versions of certains motor oils (namely SN certified oils) do have less ZDDP (a high-pressure lubricant) that is essential to maintaining decent shifting in a bike. However, one can address this by adding ZDDP by means of an additive (like ZDDPlus).

Finally, regarding the age-old mineral vs synth debate, oil has greatly evolved in recent years and in certain instances, well made minerals oils now outperform synths. The gap is not what it once was. As an example, Rotella 15W40 mineral has proven itself to be much more robust (ie. resistant to shearing) than the T6 synthetic (5W40) it shares shelf space with.

In the end, use a decent brand-name oil, change it often and you`ll be good to go.

WhOrD

Repsol Racing Fully Synthetic $70

Jack Flash

Here twist, you may want to check this out to answer a few questions

API Engine Oil Classification

I use Motul 5100 series. I've also used Maxima and Repsol. As been said before, good oil change on a regular basis, and you'll be fine.

I'll try to find for you a site I remember having found a few years ago writen by automotive journalists. The info is very well researched and documented with all the different chemical agents used in motoroil, and which concentration of those different chemicals are used by oil manufactures.

http://www.motorcycleanchor.com/moto...to/mc_oil.html

Now, take a few days off from work, and start reading....I want a report by the end of the week. Ha!Ha! This is a real complete article, if you don't find what you're looking for here...sell the Hawk, and start basket weaving..;o)

twist

thanks, jackflash!(what you flashin there, jack?)
I bought the mobil 1 synthetic for motorcycles 10w40.
I am a firm believer in changing the oil often, after all, it's the oil that removes the crud from the motor. I did oil changes on the old beemer every 3000 mi and when I rebuilt it at 100000, the iron cylinders were still in spec and I only needed to hone the bore.
The Hawk will get the same care. But I think the new oils will allow me to go a little longer between changes and that justifies the cost. At least changing the oil in the red beast is an easy task, (not like the plugs). Thanks a lot for the links, I like to read.

thetophatflash

My R75/5 had aluminum cylinders with steel liners. What year was your Beemer?

Jack Flash

Don't worry twist, may pants are where they should be