I'm part of the family now
 

I'm in daytona beach FL
I love the bike
Attachment 23971

The superhawk is an amazing bike!

Congrats, I guess that's it then, no more DRZ... :) and welcome to the family, just another warning, once you fall in love it's hard to let go ;) these are amazing bikes and they are way underrated especially in the states.

Once I opened her up and hit some corners my mind was already made up, I checked all the plastics, none cracked or broken, no stress marks on the frame no evadence that it had been down, the manual, and auto has been chanced he showed me, the R/R hasn't been changed (I can do that) it's exactly what he said it is, and my god she is so beautiful! I was going to polish the frame but I like it the way it is.. I'm excited for it to warm up next next I'll be hitting some corners =D

Have a thorough check for filler behind the fairing just above the radiator cutouts ;-) Otherwise looks good though won't the matt black paint soak up the Florida sun in the summer!

That's a pretty good DIY paint job from the pics.

Look up Tweety's MOSFET R/R thread to get a handle on that . Nice bike!

And start by yanking the illegal, unsafe and stupid ass drop-in HID bulb out of there, ASAP... Get a good quality H4 bulb and a relay harness or a HID projector retrofitted into the housing to get some real usable and safe lighting improvements...

At 8000K, that HID light has about 20% less usable (to the eyes) light than a 4200K HID bulb... Which means it gives you about twice as much actual usable light as an decent H4 bulb with a relay... If it wasn't for the fact that more than half of that is scattered around the tree tops somewhere, only serving the purpose to blind oncoming drivers...

So, right now, you are actually driving around with a "cool" headlight that gives you pretty much less visibility than the stock bulb and wiring harness, with more chance of being mowed down by an oncoming driver... Really Cool (TM)...

A standard H4 bulb on correct voltage, ie with a relay, produces ~1500 Lm of usable light... With the OEM reflector being correct for the bulb, say 80% of that is actually usable... Which means ~1200 Lm... Without a relay, with the poor stock wiring probably around 1000 Lm or so...

A 4200K HID bulb makes around ~3200 Lm, making it just more than twice than a H4 bulb... But that's only if it's in a proper reflector for the bulb... In the H4 reflector, an unshielded HID bulb projects less than a third of it's actual light in the correct position, where its usable... So, say about ~1000 Lm, same as the OEM H4 bulb and OEM wiring...

A 8000K HID bulb can produce ~2550 Lm, and a third of that makes about ~850 Lm, ie less than OEM...

An HID projector, with the correct reflector and lense to use the full output of the HID bulb, you are actually using up to 98% of the bulbs rated output... So with that, you get the "full" 2550 Lm if you choose 8000K, or the full 3200 Lm if you are less cool, like me...

A shop did it, he had all the receipts (probably a low budet place cause there are minor defects that I noticed) but it's a bike... it doesn't need a 10k paint job that some people do on there busa's and gixxers lol

19Superchicken98, Please excuse Tweety, he is in rare form today. He is however the greatest electrical engineer on the forum, and I'm told his bark is worse than his bite but I'm not flying to Sweden to find out!

So can you put that in a retard understanding format? lol.
I felt like I was reading russian, SO I should get a "projector"?

Get a projector (which is a project to install) OR an H4 bulb and do away with the HID and ballast. HID kits without projectors are are dangerous and worthless. I've not seen a single one with effective light, despite their owner's insistence that they do.

I've ripped them out of my car and my gf's car from PO, put in 100w harnasses with matching bulbs and the light quality is night and day.

Or simpler:

HID without projector = negligent

H4 with relay = quality light

Is there a write up on how to do away with HID? I like the look but safty of me and drivers is more of a concern

Here you go, this contains much of info' you need and some additional links you should check including feedback:
https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...version-27804/

Not per se, but it's not too hard.

If you trace your light wires back, it will eventuall go to a 3 prong plug. This is the stock motorcycle h4 bulb plug. If you put an H4 bulb into that and put it into the housing, you're back to stock. All the other stuff is the HID kit.

Here's an example from Amazon:
https://encrypted-tbn3.gstatic.com/i...3o5x4O0fa2wFxg

If the kit has a relay (I think they all do?), you can use it to make the stock bulb brighter. The way the bike is wired up, the power from the battery doesn't all make it to the bulb, and a relay fixes this (connects the bulb directly to the battery). More on this if you're interested, but there are write-ups on that.

You've got a one piece fiberglass upper on that bike??? Shakskinz?

I wonder why the PO would have changed that out if it hadn't been dropped?
the rear brake pedal is bent up. Whats with the oil on the header and the clutch cover?
Looks good though. Good trade i'd say.

Could be coolant too...

And I'd definitely check the fairing stay mount. Front of the frame, where the fairings mount to the bike.

And the foot peg slider missing...

I think its just the angle of the picture, I didn't notice it to be bent when I looked at it but good catch, I'll check it out when I get home, and the stains I wasn't to sure about, looked like he didn't use a funnel and it leaked and never wiped it off.

sharkskinz, yes. RACE UPPER (VTR1000)

It's the street upper....it has a headlight ;)

Clicked the wrong one :rolleyes:
I want to get the "street lower" looks much nicer with that belly on there

Don't all VTR's have 1Peices? all the pics I see look like 1P

The stock front fairing is made up of 7 pieces.

3 outer
2 inner
2 "ducts"

;)

if I bought this 1 PIECE STREET LOWER (VTR1000) does it screw on like a body kit for a car, or fiberglass in on? I guess I could do either, I would probably use bolts cause over time the fiberglass could crack.

You'll need to fabricate mounting brackets if it doesn't come with them.

I would really look into the other things before getting an expensive race lower... just sayin'.

And that wet spot on the exhaust header isn't from overfilling the crankcase.

You guys are awesome!

I was talking about the case where it says honda, I took those pics this morning, could be due from the morning? I don't know I never noticed it before, I'll inspect it when I get home

Looks like oil on the header to me.

The rear brake pedal should be at the same angle as the footpeg. Looks a little high. Not a big deal to bend back though. Check under it for scrape marks.

Not a big deal on the peg feeler being gone either. I removed mine pretty early on. Probably be dragging hard parts before they touch anyways.

the front braided brake lines should be going to the inside of the fork as well. That and a small hose clamp and bolt to hold it on the fork.

I'd just put the front end up, remove the wheel and fender, and rotate the fork around clockwise to spin the line behind the fork (but I'm just kinda anal about those things...) doesn't really make a difference in the grand scheme of things.

Welcome, and nice bike!

Poor guy, just bought the bike, all excited, and here we are telling him
all we see that is wrong. Nice bike 19, but, I also have my two cents too
add to your new love of your life.
The sub frame seems bent inwards where the rear foot peg mounts. Now, it may just be the angle of the pic, but, looks bent on this pic. You may want to compare with the left side to see if they are the same, or different. If different, confirms PO dropped/crashed it. I am not saying it's a bad thing, but if he hasn't told you the truth, it just sucks for you if you are really anal about having a clean bike. It also means you will have to carefully check everything else if you do not wish to have failure on the road yourself.
One way to verify at the front end is be checking the triple tree stoppers on the frame. It's pretty soft aluminum, and you will see the triple tree marking the frame.
Happy trails.

I looked for a oil leak, didn't see any sign of one above the header, but there is a tiny one next to it-ish, I'll upload a pic tomorrow

The supframe is okay (seems okay to me) doesn't look bent or stressed. The brake pedal does have scrapes but light ones, maybe PO dragged knee or fell over in garage? as for the TTS it all looked good, I can take some more pictures for you guys tomorrow. I would rather you guys tell me what could and or what is wrong so I can fix it. :thumbsup:

I don't mind a low side but if it was wrecked I would sell it lol, the title was good was a salvage title or anything

The leak at the front could be from the small relief hole in the front of the engine that allows coolant to leak externally rather than into the oil when the water pump seal fails underneath the clutch cover.

I found a wet spot, I'll upload a pic in a few minutes

its built up in this area, above it is dry.
Attachment 23970

yup that's a water pump seal gone if its dripping from that spiggot. You'll need to get the clutch cover off to fix it

Download the Honda service manual PDF from the workshop section for how to get at it.

Ronayers.com Microfiche Honda>Motorcycle>1999>VTR1000F>WATER PUMP

Ronayers.com Microfiche Honda>Motorcycle>1999>VTR1000F>RIGHT CRANKCASE COVER