Does anyone have a chain rivet tool and vernier calipers that I can borrow?
 

Does anyone have a DID or Motion Pro chain rivet tool and vernier calipers laying around that I can borrow?
I was going to buy this http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/370473297632
and this http://cgi.ebay.com/360339805417
But if anyone can help me out I will greatly appreciate it :D.
I will send them back how they were received.

Just a suggestion, but my local shop pressed my rivet for 10 bucks. it'd take quite a few chain replacements to be cost effective. of course it helps to have a trailer to take it there in. :)

Well, since the chain can be swapped with it riveted, taking just the chain to the shop, would solve the problem of the trailer... ;)

Genius!
Is putting the chain on like that easy, does the wheel slide up the swing arm far enough to slip it over?
Sorry about the noob question..
I just never did anything like this.
I assume that it can be done since I have to replace the sprockets.

Start by removing the wheel, no need to fiddle with the adjusters much, just give the chain visible slack so nothing binds when you move it around, then you just pull the axle and drop the wheel out...

Then remove the "chain guard", make sure to zip-tie the clutch lever to the handle first, and the rest is easy...

You need to loosen the pivot bolt for the svingarm but you don't need to remove it... Then unbolt the small bolt on the footpeg assembly to svivel it and get the chain out... Reverse order for assembly...

Ok I will try it.

There is always the master link option too. The chain tool would require you to open up a chain changing shop to break even on it.

if you got a new chain it probably came with both a clip and rivet master link. You could also use the clipstyle link to put the chain together and ride to shop to have a riveted one placed.

It came with just a rivet master link.

I called a shop near by and they said they will rivet the chain for $20 if I bring it in.

You can also bring along a sawzall or dremel and just cut straight through the old chain.

I also have a new sprocket set that I have to install, so I don't want to use the old chain on the new sprockets.

Can a full linked chain off the bike be installed on the bike and what would have to be removed for it to install

I found a guy that will rivet the chain for a coffee.
If I bring the chain in and have it riveted, what will I have to do to get it on the bike?

herman_g60 in post #26 in this thread https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...ad.php?t=20395 did it can it really be done this way?


At 15K miles, I replaced both sprockets and the chain without cutting the old chain off.
I bought the chain + sprocket kit from Dennis Kirk and had the new chain pressed at a local shop.
You can get the old chain off if you can take your back wheel off and the one small front peg allen bolt. You'll be able to jimmy the chain through and off if you can do both of those. You'll have to rotate the foot peg around with a mallet maybe.

PLEASE TELL ME IF THIS IS FROWNED UPON DOING IT THAT WAY! I just didn't want to buy more flippin' tools for a one time job.

If so I need to go get this guy a coffee before he changes his mind.
My bike is not near my house so I can't look at it.

See post #5 in this thread....... ;)

When getting to the front sprocket, will the cylinder when I remove the clutch cover with the slave attached move and take air into the system?

Would I have to zip tie the clutch leaver? or don't touch the leaver?

I'm confused my limited mechanics knowledge says to leave it so the rod or what ever is in there does not over extend and pop out on the caliper.
Kind of like a brake, if I am wrong please let me know.

justinity... Limited mechanical ability or not, you seem to need stuff spelled out for you, since you either don't read what people posted previously, or just ignore it, which is rude...

Or perhaps you simply don't understand it, which isn't rude, but at this point might imply that you have limited mental faculties as well?! If that's the case, let me know, I wouldn't want to bash on a mentally handicapped person... Otherwise start by reading what people post as response to your questions... This since I already answeared all the questions in the #5 post in is thread...

But, I'll spell it out... Again... See post #5...

If you do what is described you will be able to remove your old chain with it still as it is, ie riveted together, the same as your new chain... You will also be able to swap sprockets while he chain is off... Now, logic dictates that if you can remove the chain in one piece, you should also be able to put it back in one piece... (And before you ask... Yes, it applies to a new chain as well as the old...)

What was described in that other post was exactly the same as I described sans some useful tips to make it easier for you... Ie loosening the pivot bolt to rotate the footpeg, and the zip-tied clutch...

No, I did not write that you should zip-tie the clutch handle to the handlebar out of a misguided sense of humour, it really makes your life easier, ie if you like me dislike bleeding the clutch frequently... The reason is that with the handle in, no fluid can go anywhere in the system (the piston blocks all paths) and as long as you keep the slave up high (same height as the master) it's easy to just bolt it back...

The same goes for the footpeg, you could use a mallet, like in the other post, but isn't it easier to loosen the bolt? and then re-fasten it once you are done? It sure seems that way too me, but I cold very well be wrong...

Oh, btw... For those that will undoubtedly have issues with this post... Before you accuse me of being rude or unhelpful to the "poor newbies"... Read the whole head through, consider the sequence of events, and why I might possibly take issue with justinity's actions before you jump in guns blasing... And rest assured, I'm pretty much done helping any new people on this forum now, I get more enjoyment out of hitting my own thumb with a hammer...

As a stop-gap measure, instead of deleting my account, which I'm really and honestly tempted to do... I'm going to go to bed, so I won't be around to read the insults for the next 12 hours... Cya...

I feel you pain Marcus.... and I do feel that way myself at times.
This stuff isn't rocket science and it has been spelled out quite clearly in the previous posts.

As for hitting it with a mallet....... really :shock:
I mean you already have the proper tools, if you have the correct stuff to remove the rear wheel, so why not just do it the right way?

I got the wheel off today I am going to install the rear sprocket and clean everything up.
The cush drive seems like it's good. What grease do you guys use on the axle and bearings?

Wheel bearing grease seems to work...

http://lmgtfy.com/?q=grease+axle+bearing

Seriously have you downloaded the Honda VTR1000F (Superhawk) Service Manual PDF from the workshop section?

Here's one that is searchable.

http://www.haymouth.co.uk/phpBB3/vie...=18025#p145453

Ok I installed the rear sprocket and cleaned it up with a wire brush, I tightened the bolts to 81 foot pounds to be on the safe side.
http://i52.tinypic.com/30k3v51.jpg

Yes I had it before I got the bike.
I have it on my phone in a PDF reader app.
I am going to download the one that you recommended.