D&D slip-ons rejeting needed?
#1
D&D slip-ons rejeting needed?
I sincerely apologize for this thread, But just when you need info you can't find it.
I've tried searching but it keeps pulling up relevant stuff.
So I found on craigs list local to me a set of D&D slip ons in good condition.
Even though I would really love to retrofit Tri-Oval Yoshimura cans from GSXR100 these are so cheap I can't pass it up.
So I want to know if you guys can tell me how loud they are. By no means do I want to set off car alarms but I want just a bit more sound than my 3 hole in stock can job.
I've seen many of you say that slip-ons require rejeting, but will I be able to get away with a needle shim?
I've tried searching but it keeps pulling up relevant stuff.
So I found on craigs list local to me a set of D&D slip ons in good condition.
Even though I would really love to retrofit Tri-Oval Yoshimura cans from GSXR100 these are so cheap I can't pass it up.
So I want to know if you guys can tell me how loud they are. By no means do I want to set off car alarms but I want just a bit more sound than my 3 hole in stock can job.
I've seen many of you say that slip-ons require rejeting, but will I be able to get away with a needle shim?
#2
The D&D pipes are louder than most, but look at it this way, its additional insurance that the cagers will hear you before they see you.
Your air/fuel ratio will be off adding the slip-ons, but jet kits are relatively inexpensive and will increase overall performance of your bike. I have and recommend the Factory Pro jet kit as this kit does not require drilling the carb slides like the DynoJet kit requires.
Your air/fuel ratio will be off adding the slip-ons, but jet kits are relatively inexpensive and will increase overall performance of your bike. I have and recommend the Factory Pro jet kit as this kit does not require drilling the carb slides like the DynoJet kit requires.
#3
i had D&D's with a K&N air filter and some other mild mods and it was LOUD. if i aimed just right i could set car alarms off. just idling in the driveway it wasnt so much loud as this deep thump that i could still feel when i was in my living room.
now the good part was that it didnt really get any louder as the revs increased, just a faster deep thump, and as a comparison it is in NO WAY as loud as the guys cruising around on open pipe running waay to rich harley.
if you dont change anything other then the slip ons you can prolly get away with not doing a full rejet.
now the good part was that it didnt really get any louder as the revs increased, just a faster deep thump, and as a comparison it is in NO WAY as loud as the guys cruising around on open pipe running waay to rich harley.
if you dont change anything other then the slip ons you can prolly get away with not doing a full rejet.
#4
In most cases it seems that just a needle shim will do the trick. Every bike is not identicle though. The only way to know for sure is to try it out and see what works. But if you're planning on shimming the needles anyway a full rejet isn't a whole lot more more work.
#5
Well, can't be worse than HD i suppose.
I haven't dove too deep in to this bike yet and can't recal from when i did CCTs how hard would it be to pull the carbs off this chicken?
I haven't dove too deep in to this bike yet and can't recal from when i did CCTs how hard would it be to pull the carbs off this chicken?
Last edited by malahhaor; 06-24-2009 at 12:20 PM.
#6
Read this thread for some needle shim and a/f adjustment, https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...ad.php?t=19108.
When you pull the carbs off be very careful to unscrew the choke needles as the assembly is plastic and will break very easily if one is not careful. The replacement kit costs approximately $22 if you do break it. Remember, there are two to remove.
When you pull the carbs off be very careful to unscrew the choke needles as the assembly is plastic and will break very easily if one is not careful. The replacement kit costs approximately $22 if you do break it. Remember, there are two to remove.
#7
Pulling the carbs off is no problem. For me it was getting them back on that sucked. I used to have D&D's and would definitely recomend rejetting.
#8
Mine is all stock and i really don't care to make it much faster. All i want is a nice sound.
#9
I ran the stock. It just had too much air to keep up with with the K&N. I've got a Dynojet and I'm using 190 and 185 if I recall. If you search around here you'll find that I wasn't the only one that had trouble tuning for a K&N and the only real benefit is that it's reusable.
#10
so it turns out that this is the same guy i got the bike from, bastard took the D&Ds off when he sold it to me.
Picking them up this saturday for 250!!! pic looks good, he asured me there are no scratches or dings, so we'll see.
wish me luck.
Picking them up this saturday for 250!!! pic looks good, he asured me there are no scratches or dings, so we'll see.
wish me luck.
#11
I got my K&N and it made more sense to have it all done once, so I had it jetted. I don't have the knowledge, patience, or equipment to do this myself. $288 later, it doesn't bog or smell like gas, generally stays started, and the seat of my pants says it pulls harder up top. It sounds a bit different, too, the power pulses are more defined, more like a square wave whereas before it was more like a sine wave.
But, it's also got a nasty stumble (lean spot?) in the lower range RPMs. No tach so I can't say exactly where but it's disconcerting to say the least. Feels like I'm running out of gas, and it's bad enough that I'm considering spending the money to put the stocker back in and rejet it. Someone here, forget who, pointed out that the K&N doesn't have a fin in front of the air filter and the stocker does, and recommended installing one, so I might try that first.
And yes, the D&Ds WILL set off car alarms. They have a nice deep tone. A frequent visitor thought it was a minor earthquake the first time she heard it (through a few walls). It's pretty fun on the freeway but definitely has "obnoxious potential" on my ride home at night.
#12
^^ that stumble means you are running lean on pilots...
either shim the needle or get a larger pilot jet...
i shimmed my DynoJet kit by one slot on the needle and it cleared up my low rpm stumble, hesitation (1500 to 3000 rpm)
either shim the needle or get a larger pilot jet...
i shimmed my DynoJet kit by one slot on the needle and it cleared up my low rpm stumble, hesitation (1500 to 3000 rpm)
#13
I installed Yosh cans and Dynojet kit all at the same time and the bike ran great. I followed Dyno's jet sizing recommendation.
When I installed the K&N filters it bogged down at low revs something terrible. I rejetted per Dyno's suggested settings and the bike ran great. If your having a problem getting the carbs into the boots, use a little vasaline or your favourite lubricant on inside of the boots. They will slip on easily.
One thing to check before installing the D&D's is to check to make sure that the right header at the Y is not restricted. My header was half closed off because they did not trim away the pipe leading and exiting the Y connector. Use a flashlight, I missed it the first time. Idle was always a little rough and inconsistent when the engine was hot. It now idles perfectly since I opened up the header pipe.
When I installed the K&N filters it bogged down at low revs something terrible. I rejetted per Dyno's suggested settings and the bike ran great. If your having a problem getting the carbs into the boots, use a little vasaline or your favourite lubricant on inside of the boots. They will slip on easily.
One thing to check before installing the D&D's is to check to make sure that the right header at the Y is not restricted. My header was half closed off because they did not trim away the pipe leading and exiting the Y connector. Use a flashlight, I missed it the first time. Idle was always a little rough and inconsistent when the engine was hot. It now idles perfectly since I opened up the header pipe.
#14
One thing to check before installing the D&D's is to check to make sure that the right header at the Y is not restricted. My header was half closed off because they did not trim away the pipe leading and exiting the Y connector. Use a flashlight, I missed it the first time. Idle was always a little rough and inconsistent when the engine was hot. It now idles perfectly since I opened up the header pipe.
But i read some folks say it should be there to equal out the exhaust flow?
#15
Well.... it turned out better than i thought.
It turns out, that the guy had the exhaust on the bike for two years. the bike was already jeted for it. Whohoooo!!!!!
Slipped them on, went for a ride for a few hours... everything runs smooth, crispier.. more responsive. does not overheat, seems like same temp as before, idles better as well. Not terribly loud either.... all in all i'm happy.
He had the pipes online for a few weeks and no hits, as soon as i called him everyone and their mom started calling as well.... wouldn't be any of you guys, now would it?
It turns out, that the guy had the exhaust on the bike for two years. the bike was already jeted for it. Whohoooo!!!!!
Slipped them on, went for a ride for a few hours... everything runs smooth, crispier.. more responsive. does not overheat, seems like same temp as before, idles better as well. Not terribly loud either.... all in all i'm happy.
He had the pipes online for a few weeks and no hits, as soon as i called him everyone and their mom started calling as well.... wouldn't be any of you guys, now would it?
#16
#17
Not to mention it helps to have a small child help reach them for you. Not having one handy, it took me about half and hour to get those things to thread back in.
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