Carb removal - I'm stumped
 

I've looked, searched, scoured, whatever to find out how to pull out my carbs. I found no threads here with instruction, youtube has no good video, and the manual isn't doing it for me. Can someone please help me figure this bitch out? I'm at the point where I'm looking at the carb itself in the holding brackets and cant figure out what to 'undo' next to be able to remove it. Basically my bike was sitting idle for well over 2 yrs while I was away and wasn't winterized nor the fuel treated, so someone suggested the bowls may be gelled up or the jets clogged. If there's a better way to get it running without needing to pull the carb, please do enlighten me. Thx

Sell it to me cheap, have a shop do it for you, or after you remove everything in the way (wait to disconnect the choke and carb cables till the carbs are out of their rubber insulator spigots) loosen up only the upper clamp bands but only enough so they will come of the locating pegs on the OD of the spigots in their slots, heat of rubber with a hair drier then spray some rubber safe lubricant around the carb venturis above the spigots while you wiggle the carbs a bit then heat some more and quickly give a jerk back and up on the front of the front carb and pop, off they'll come!

DO NOT BREAK OFF THE BLACK PLASTIC CHOKE CABLE FERRULES THAT SCREW INTO THE SIDE OF THE CARBS!!! BUY BRASS ONES THOUGH FROM FLASH.

Also disconnect the pretty well useless hot water hoses and plan on replacing the Y-fittings and the o-rings they fit on if you can find them for a descent price but they are not essential and really the hoses connected together and by-passed.

thx, a lot of that read as foreign to me tho haha, but if I try to read real good between the lines, I may be able to figure it out.

Skokie is dead on...
I think you are probably struggling getting the carbs out of the rubber boots that seal them to the heads. Sometimes ya have to wriggle/wrestle them outta there. Heed the choke advice. Those sucka's break easy (so I've heard) lol.

The only thing holding the carbs to the engine is the rubber isolator boots between the head and the carb. These are held on by clamps at the top (carb end) and bottom (head end). If you've loosened the clamps then you are only fighting against the snugness of the rubber and age glueing it in place.

Skokie's suggestion is to encourage some lube (e.g. silicone spray) to penetrate between carb and boot, add some heat to soften the rubber, and then give the carbs a good yank.

I would undo the choke knob and cable from the frame before you start, and as stated you can undo the two machine screws on the throttle cables and unhook the cable ends once the carbs are loose.

VTR carbs have a small water heating circuit to stop them icing, and you'll need to pull the water pipes off the carbs once they are loose. I'm betting many on many VTR's these pipes will be clogged by now.

New rubber boots are cheap and will make reinstalling the carbs a more pleasant experience, plus avoiding possible leaks from old/cracked boots.

Do this.
Based on the number of threads with "my bike doesn't run right after taking the carbs off ", you will have eliminated a serious potential goblin up front.

thanks guys, all of you. I really appreciate the extra explanations you all gave. Yes, it looks like that's where I'm stuck, is the rubber boots holding them. I'll let you all know how well I managed to pull this off (pun) haha.

Have you tried watching utube vids about carb removal. Even if not a SH it will give you the idea of carb removal.

The issue specific with the vtr is that the choke cable elbows are probably already broken at the mere face you attempted removal.

You will only learn to not break them after you did it at least once to see how they break.

We've probably all been there at one time. A few weeks ago I had carbs off an R6 3 times. Each time I had to ask for help getting them back on. Trying to press them into place was not easy. Every hard push compressed the suspension. Trying to get 4 carbs into those boots, all in a row, is a pain!

Rocking them slowly side to side while pulling up is what works for me. Same going back in. Patience helps too.

Jack Flash is out of the brass fittings at the moment. I am waiting to hear back on when he will have some more made. My bike is down til I get those or buy the shitting OEM plastic ones. I still had one break trying to baby the carbs off.

Search the forum, if I recall someone had a polaris one(or other brand) that worked.

Only member that I found selling them was Jack Flash but he is currently out of stock. If you know someone else with some for sale let me know.

Fixed

"Location: Houston TX"

Load in truck, drive 215 miles, watch me remove them in 5 min or less.
Load in truck, drive 215 miles do what ever you were going to do with them now that they are out.

I still haven't accomplished this yet, but I hope to succeed July 4th, I f I can manage to get to it. I sure hope, bc my ass is bitchin n complainin about no ride time.

wtf man, get it done :) lol.

I posted the Polaris part number on here somewhere. It goes right in place with some sanding.

Polaris part 3130199

Little more than sanding when I used them,,, but to each his own

https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...etainer-29791/