The aftermath, SuperHawk II will rise
 

Last Thursday (7 Jan 2016) started like any other day.. It ended like this https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...nemy-us-33709/
https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...1&d=1452820354
Thursday afternoon I had a component failure and highside bike at 70mph. Earn 4 fractured ribs, minor contusions and abrasions destroyed gear head to toe.
Thursday evening depart ER, go home and start planning.
https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...1&d=1452820257
Friday, pretend to be resting, but really planning, thinking (yelping when I breath or turn wrong way...lol)
Saturday buy new bike.
https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...1&d=1452820417
2001, under 16k on the clock.. pretty much stock and unmolested...came with some nice extras and all the OEM parts.
Sunday buy parts to build new bike into a better version of what was crashed Thursday.
Monday buy more parts.
Tuesday buy new gear.
Wednesday buy more parts
Thursday The first repair part has arrived.
https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...1&d=1452820013

Let the games begin

Excellent. Just wouldn't be the same without

Have you any pictures of the old broken rear brake that caused the lock-up?

I do, it is in the other thread about the crash post 37.
Id prefer to keep that discussion in that thread.... this one for the new build.. :thumbsup:

Cleared one lift last night of a customers bike... and got the Old Hawk on the lift.. What a sad state it is in... Even with a new SH waiting on the trailer....it's heart crushing (oh wait, maybe that's the ribs when I twisted..still)
Today starts the tear down of Old Hawk......have to keep it as a roller for now as I can't move the larger pieces yet. I'll clear off a second lift later today, and get New Hawk in.
pictures later.

And so, the journey begins anew.

https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...1&d=1453247039

In there someplace are two SuperHawks, Both coming apart, one pieced back together.

https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...1&d=1453331009

Deconstructing a bike you have been making MODs to for 11 years is not an easy task.... Each part removed elicited a memory... each new point of damage discovered a pain.. and the builder in you.... each part uncovered a thought.. hmm I could have done that better, easier, lighter, cleaner if I had.......

Heartbreaking to be sure...

Underswing arm brake..And what went wrong.
 

Under swing arm brake.....what went wrong?....Lots, in two stages, the end result was a trashed bike, 4 broken ribs, ruined gear head to toe.

The idea came from a bloke on this very forum... rotate the brake caliper down using a stock caliper mount, and a strut mounted to the swingarm on a custom mount and the caliper mount with longer bolt. I did just that along with a swing arm brace welded in place.
https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...r-mount-31513/

It worked for him, should work a treat for me... :mrgreen:
Ahh no :sad2

The first failure was the OEM caliper mount fracturing.. you can see that in the thread above starting at post 120
https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...e4/#post380045

New caliper mount was procured and fit, while I searched for a better solution on mounting a by design underslung caliper.
I changed the caliper position, and thus thrust angle by shortening the strut.... By all accounts that worked to lower the stress on the caliper mount however it moved the failure point to the strut material itself.

I made several mistakes..in material selection and design..I also underestimated the amount of force that the strut would need to hold back.

The fix is, all new rod ends as these have been subjected to forces I don't want to trust them to again. Reality is, even the smaller M6 one has a dynamic load limit of almost 20,000lb, and more in compression.. So the mount from the swing arm will fail long before these Chromoly rod ends fail.
Strut material has changed from 13mm dia 7075 al to 1/2" (12.7mm) dia 4340 vacuum melt cold rolled steel bar.

Threads will be cut like last time, but there will be more material left after cutting threads even though the dia is smaller. Last time I was concerned with the Chromoly rod ends pulling threads from the aluminum bar.. so I used SS thread inserts....which worked,, the threads did not fail... that material failed just ahead of the threads because the cross section was too thin after the oversized thread insert installed. :cry:

The failure analysis I did on the first part failed to consider the final OD of the strut at threaded ends (GIGO, garbage in, garbage out) and failed to consider the micro-fractures that happen when you cut the material with an edge.. like say a carbon cutter, or tap.. I remembered this from the days I learned about boring motor cylinders and the need to take progressively shallower cuts as you neared the final pre hone dimension...so the final microfractures (about 50% the depth of the cut) would be removed in the rigid honing process. Too bad I did not consider that same concern when I cut threads into the 7075 for the thread insert.
I actually have not found the data I want for cutting aluminum yet..is the microfractures not the same issue because of the elasticity of AL vs the iron bore of a cylinder. Or even if cutting steel like 4340 or other Chromoly steels exhibit the micro fracturing I was taught happened with cutting iron cylinder bores.

In any case, I'm not leaving a weak link on the strut rod this time.. 1/2"(12.7mm) 4340 vacuum melt cold rolled steel bar, drilled and tapped m6 on one end, M8 on the other will have a higher load capacity than the shear strength of the fasteners holding it in place or the caliper mount, or even the welded on a swing arm mount.

Flame suit on...... Poke fun all you want... we knowingly take risks when we depart from OEM R&D materials and designs. I accepted that risk and lost this time,,,,,, time to try again..

Been riding the SuperHawk II as is for weeks now as i just had no time to work on my own stuff.
Put my better wheels and new tires on last week....lower gearing, EBC rotors, Coerce case guard and just rode the thing.... the suspension is horrible,,badly needs to be swapped for my kitted and outfitted other set.
I like the fork leg colors of the 2001 set so ordered some SKF Green oil seals from Jamie and await their arrival to swap internals from old forks to new, and get my Jamie built shock on the bike.

Last night i had had enough of looking at old Hawk parts waiting for install..... so apart SuperHawk II did go.
https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...1&d=1458076941
Getting installed in this round;
Just last night rebuilt clutch master cylinder with all new parts except the casting itself and Galfer SS line with Probolt Ti bits.
CBRF4i front calipers, Brembo radial 19mm MC & Rizoma fluid cup, Core Moto SS brake lines, with Probolt Ti bits.
Apex clip ons, set at lowest 1" rise.
Trimmed fairing to retain full lock to lock steering.
Euro left side control set, giving me headlight on/off, flash to pass and nice new looking controls.
Modded right side controls, deleting the engine cut off switch and the large plastic control assembly, replacing with a single, brake perch switch mount from Highway Dirt bikes.
Single cable throttle assembly and Vista cruise throttle lock

Nice of you to climb back onto the horse, so to speak :) Good luck with your project!

Good to hear a fellow Texan, back in the saddle again...see you chose the correct color...again :thumbsup:

Distraction for today was the gauge cluster.
I was Soooooooo anticipating the new updated cluster on the 2001 vice my 98... clock, fuel gauge, temp....right up until I rode the bike at night....... WTF.. what moron designed a super tiny gauge face in red plastic, with a black background, white number overlay ????????

Thing is all but unreadable to me at night. Clear as can be in the day, but at night the small font, red numbers on black background are mostly a blur.
I tried some LEDs in the cluster..... nope, just made a brighter red blur.

Well, today the UPS guy came buy with another package from Superbright LED's....

I ordered a LED side emitting light strip in cool white. I fitted a small section of that strip into the housing today.... wired in a dimmer switch so I can adjust the output .. The face of the gauge is now front lit in white, back lit in red. It looks good in the garage, time will tell if it works going down the road.