Tweety

Well, the guy doing the install in this case chose to put it in the fake bolt, (He's from the swedish forum and was the first tester)... You can make it out in the image... but you can just as easily make it fit on the other side of the dial, since it's only a LED on a wire, doesn't need much space...

I'm sorry to say I never mucked about with that, so I couldn't tell you... the thing is though, I know there is the space since I have had one of the guys testing put it in there... The GPI is a PCB 30*30 mm in size (or slightly less, but that's the maximum size) and about 5 mm thick except for the 7-segment display so you could open it up and have a look for feasible ideas...

It's so small, it's not really a problem... But if someone likes the idea better, I could make a box for them to put it outside the gauges instead...

Also right now I can't find the images but I stuck one in my CBR gauges without problem...

Erik S.

I am interested.

skokievtr

I'm also interested but have a few questions/comments:

1. I can't tell in your photos but did you eliminate the RLOD and put the gizmo in its place.

2. Since I'm not thrilled with the prospect of taking apart the tacho AND trying to put it back together (unless its real easy and fool-proof), it should be possible to mount it in its own case and install it to the left of the speedo, no?

3. What do you mean by "have it learn gears" and is it difficult/time consuming?

4. For example, if you go to kneedragers.com, they have several gear indicators; i.e., the Datatool for $79 http://www.kneedraggers.com/product/...Gear-Indicator
the Starlane for $119 which also has a programmable shift light http://www.kneedraggers.com/product/...th-Shift-Light
the Acuman for $110 http://www.kneedraggers.com/product/...n-Version-Blue
(plus the Acumen DC* plug-in for $150 as well as the Healtech's).
My question is how do these compare to yours given having to hard wire both and they would be the about same price or maximum $40 more plus come with a warranty (however poor)

But I'm still interested and commend your initiative

Tweety

1. Already been answered... It was moved, not eliminated... The reason was that happened to be the best place to put the GPI, not blocking the readout of the tacho... Actually if I where to do it on the old gauge I'd probably re-purpose the sidestand light for the fuel warning, since the sidestand switch works just fine without a light...

2. It's easy... A few bolts to open it and just be careful to not harm the dials when it's open and all is well... A bit finicky to put it back with all the pieces in the same place though not to difficult... But yeah, you can easily make another box, it needs to be waterproof though... I'm not planning to do that, so that will be your job if you like it external...

3. You tell the GPI how many gears the bike have 5 or 6, and the ratio of ignition pulses vs the speed sensor for each gear... Ie either stick the bike on a rear stand and while idling go through the gearbox or do it on road... The same thing applies to ALL of the ones you linked... All of them have a switch hidden somewhere...

I'd actually recommend the stand since I nearly hit a ditch while trying the other option... And yes, it's perfectly safe to do, while idling... If you decide to play with the throttle you are on your own for safety...

4. See 3... But other than that, they work the same as mine... You learn the gears for them, and they do the same math but might have different components/CPU inside...

The Acumen one's doesn't have wire harnesses for the VTR, so it's the $110 hardwire option that's comparable... I actually had one of those for testing a while this summer... It worked the same as my prototype but was a PITA to learn the gears on since you use a fipply small "key" to press the button and then it goes through the gearbox... It took me several tries to be in sync with it while changing gears... Once learned I honestly couldn't tell the difference to mine... Those one's all have a sligthly larger display though since they aren't going inside the gauges...

The price isn't set yet, I'm still trying to bring the price (and size) down as much as possible, trying to find same spec components cheaper... As for warranty, well I'd probably guess mine would be as good as theirs in terms of how it works... Little more time consuming though... Contact me, answer a buch of questions and troubleshoot it yourself... If that doesn't work send it too me and I troubleshoot and send a new or repaired back (unless you obviously fried it by doing something stupid)... Return shipping on you, and no promises on how long it might take me to do it, but other than that same as theirs...


A few additional points, not fitting under you numbered questions...

I'm planning to have the switch be part of the wiring, not the board, since the board is going in the gauges... Should hopefully be removable once the learning is done and not needed... (the data goes in semi-permanent memory and isn't lost, but can be overwritten if you want to)

I'm testing the option to "piggyback" the clutch switch for learning... Not done testing that yet though so no promises...

Also If I can figure out exactly what connectors some of the wires use, I might actually offer up a plug in harness, but then that most likely wouldn't be very cheap...

BBB

I'm definitely interested

BBB

uchi

im in marcus, let me know when its done and ill send you cash

Tweety

Ok... I have been fiddling... Some of your questions and input got me thinking...

The switch for learning is now gone (possibly)... No switch needed, just a clutch and some thinking... (Yeah me and the CPU both...) Software isn't finalized yet though, but so far it works flawlessly...

That means we are down to 6 wires... 2 for power and then clutch, neutral, speed sensor and ignition pulses (RPM)... All 4 of them are available in various plugs around the bike at some point on the older gauges, but some of them only in Honda's proprietary gauge plug on the newer models... So it is feasible to do a plug in version for the older one, but so far not for the newer gauges...

And the plugs alone for that harness would add around $15-20 to the cost... Add the wiring and some various bits, plus me making it and the harness alone is $25-30... Not worth the effort as far as I can see, but if anyone wants one I'll gladly make it... The irony though of it is that on the older gauges all signals except the clucth can be hooked up by bolting small ring connectors to the signal wires accessible on the rear... DOH! So why have a harness...

Now, with the button gone, that left one pin unoccupied on the CPU so I started thinking... As usual that was a decidely bad idea... I was thinking I could add a shiftlight...

But that adds cost and it also means a larger size board... And it adds complexity, since you need to set it at an RPM... Which means we need that button... So I solved that problem... Buuut, that means more setup, more fiddling and more things you can get wrong when installing it...

So, the question is... With the button gone, and some adjustments I now have two boards to possibly prototype test... One slightly smaller and cheaper... And one more expensive and slightly bulkier with components for hooking up an external shiftlight... Which one would you guys prefer?

In theory I could do both... Just leave some parts unpopulated on the board, it would still add some cost (since I need some components to "kill" the signals) and boardsize remains larger...

Let me know...

BTW... Just so you know, the shiftlight is completely untested both HW and SW so far, so it might still end up being a complete blunder job that doesn't work...

wyldryce