Ok, so I still need to replace my rotors, if anyone has a set they want to get rid of let me know....

CBR1000rr 96-97'

Or Superhawk rotors....

or any others that will fit...

 

I only have a left side that I bought off ebay and never put on.

 

Just get this setup instead......super brakes for the superhawk
http://www.kneedraggers.com/details/...12-BTE-48.html

 

For that price you could just about do a complete front end swap including 320mm brakes.

 

wow great price dawg....NOT... lol

so is there a left and right? or does it matter...

the left one is ok, I just need the right, or if cbr I would need both....

 

CBR1000RR? In '96? That's not the 1000F?

 

Cliff, I got a set of stockers that look like they're in good shape. I haven't checked them thoroughly but I will if you need them.

 

dunno....maybe,,,,,not sure....could be....don't care....just need rotors man....just need rotors.....lol

 

yeah man, let me know...I put on the RC51 calipers and now I have to replace the rotors...I am almost 99% sure that it is the problem....I hope...although hope is not a strategy....lol

 

PM sent

 

What's the symptom. We can tell you the problem.

 

Same as what was posted earlier....Pulsing, scraping sound, grips then releases, like it is slipping on the rotor...then I replaced the rotor, and worked on the stock caliper....went away for a bit, now it is happing again, so I put the rc51 calipers on, and I figure i need to replace the rotor agian as it is probably warped a little now...hopefully that will end the issue...if not I will sell this hole in the road that I keep putting money in and buy something new...lol..nah probably not...I like the bitch...

 

Pulsing is always the rotors. However grip and release is usually contamination (like brake fluid) on the rotors. A scraping sound may be normal during bed in.

You can measure the rotors with a dial indicator, on the bike, to determine runout. A dial indicator with magnetic mount can be scored at Harbor Freight for about 30 bucks. Runout needs to be less than .012". That's a max. There is no "close enough."

 

your not talking my language there fella....runout? dial indicator?

The stock rotor that I took off the first time, had clear marks on it dug into the rotor, moon shaped several inches long...that would be the same scraping sound that I am hearing now....like the caliper was sticking...

 

I have had some calipers assembled where the spring or tensioner was rubbing against the rotor. The moon shaped marks that you describe - are they or were they - in the path of the pads? The Superhawk does not have floating calipers. Everything must line up and run accordingly. If the rotors were bent, this kind of scuffing would occur against the caliper and it would have a tendency to grip and release.

 

that sounds about right....like when I roll her out of the garage, you can hear that the it is hitting the rotor in the same location everytime, as the wheel rolls....

 

If you can get the front end up so you can rotate the wheel with your hand, inspect your assembly of the pads to the caliper and make sure that nothing is out of place. A tensioner or spring will have more of a tick - tick - tick sound. An untrue caliper is going to be more like a grind that starts slowly, builds and then recedes. If this is what you're hearing and the tires seems to get more difficult to turn in the same area where you hear the rubbing or grinding sound then I think the rotor(s) need to be replaced.

 

yup....that is what I figured....It is the right front...

so at this point it is probably warped? I guess there is no way to strighten them ?? Guess I'll have to replace the dang thing...Again...

 

Make sure there's nothing making it continue to warp, (a problem with the mounting area of the wheel, tightening the rotor unevenly, etc...).

 

see that's what makes me wonder, since I replace the rotor before, problem went away, then came back....how can I tell if something else is off...
proper tourqe on rotor bolts? what about the forks?

 

You could have had a bad caliper and that's what warped the rotor before you switched to the RC51 calipers. Once it's warped it ain't goin' back so you bolted the problem into the new calipers and Ta Da there you are. As long as you can't see anything obstructing the rotation of the wheel it's got to be the rotor. Take it off and lay it on an absolutely flat surface and you may be able to see the deviation.

 

I will give that a try next week....hopefully that is it, and a rotor will do the trick and then I can finally put this one to bed....

Then it will be on to the tail section that I need to replace...holy crap, more money....lol...when does it end....??


Going over to Gatlinburg tomorrow, without the bike, man wish it was spring...oh well.....

 

Sorry I almost forgot about the PM... PM sent...


Next post I hit 1000...what a milestone...guess somebody spends way too much time online...lol

 

I got a little riding in the last couple days too - one day on the VTR, the next on the VFR. The VFR has decided it does NOT like the cold. The new Strada's are weird in the cold. The Superhawk is game anytime I am. The Dunlops are loose in the cold but they're always loose :-D They may slide but they don't wiggle. I can handle slide - I don't like wiggle Let me know if you need these rotors. They are just sitting on top of a desk in the back office. The kid is talking liter machine and wants to start trading bikes on some of our rides. If never done much with his CBR and he has only taken the SH down to the gas station for fuel occasionally. He's about my weight now but taller. I know if I can get my suspension done this winter he's libel to never give it back if I let him ride it.

 

Usually if it is something that makes it come back you would notice right away unless it is something making it overheat,(sticking caliper). But make sure there's no rust buildup where the rotor mounts and when you tighten the bolts do it in a star pattern and never completely tighten the bolts until they all are snug first. In other words don't crank down on the first one then move to the second etc..tighten the 1st till snug go in star pattern to the next snug it down continue till all are snug and then tighten in the same pattern. Like you would if you were doing a wheel on a car, but like I said if it was that it usually is noticable right away just check everything to make sure. A dial indicator can also show runout in the wheel but again you should notice that right away.

 

I used the criss cross when I tighten, and I did not torque them down until all where snug first,,,,again, I will pull it off and check everything next week and report back....


1000!!!!!!Ding Ding Ding....Hey do I get a prize or something??LOL

 

yeah, you can share my loser of the site award!

 

shweeeet... Ok, so when do I get it and how long....share now damit you said....

 

Here you go!! I think that about covers it.

 

Yup, that about covers it....WAAAyyyyy too much time on the computer....

Oh, BTW, I can reset both of you to 0 if you'd like to start over again.