Latest OCMD project: modded airbox lid
#331
All the information I read stated that Keihn jets were measured in millimeters. So, my front main jet is a 205 and the rear is 210. Where did you read otherwise?
I tried turning out my fuel screws last night and throttle response got better. I went all the way to 4 turns out and it kept getting better. Going to swap to larger pilots. But, now that is something that is bothering me. Because last year, when I was tuning the bike, it felt like the carbs were getting better as I kept going down sizes on the pilots. I am just going to chalk this up to me not knowing as much as I do now about tuning these carbs.
I have NO IDEA how many times I have taken the carbs off or have changed jets. Oh! Speaking of which, I got a Pit Posse Angle Driver and it works awesome! I got it brand new for $20 on eBay. It is surprisingly made very well. I can now change jets very easily through the frame without removing my GPR V4 stabilizer, lifting or removing the tank, airbox, etc. Getting the bottom of the float bowls off and changing jets are a piece of cake. However, putting things back in place took a little prop rod to hold the bottom of the float bowl in place, while you get one screw in. I needed to do it this way, simply because there isn't enough room to get a hand in there while the tool is in there as well. It is still much faster than taking everything apart.
Last edited by CruxGNZ; 05-16-2015 at 07:17 AM.
#332
Drilling mains could add extra issues that you might not intend.
I say this as jets do not have a straight through hole from the factory (doesn't matter which factory, they all do it) but instead have a venturi shape.
So when you start drilling and now have a straight hole, it is hard to know what you have done to the flow rate.
I say this as jets do not have a straight through hole from the factory (doesn't matter which factory, they all do it) but instead have a venturi shape.
So when you start drilling and now have a straight hole, it is hard to know what you have done to the flow rate.
#333
Drilling mains could add extra issues that you might not intend.
I say this as jets do not have a straight through hole from the factory (doesn't matter which factory, they all do it) but instead have a venturi shape.
So when you start drilling and now have a straight hole, it is hard to know what you have done to the flow rate.
I say this as jets do not have a straight through hole from the factory (doesn't matter which factory, they all do it) but instead have a venturi shape.
So when you start drilling and now have a straight hole, it is hard to know what you have done to the flow rate.
I would love to install factory jets, but nobody makes them as big as we are using. Unless you possibly know of any companies that make 205 & 210 main jets for our carbs? Anything smaller and it runs very lean, well, my bike anyways.
#334
Yes, they are. Front was drilled 2.05mm and the rear was drilled 2.10mm. I have fantastic top end. I believe my jetting (main jets anyway) is spot on, because my Flo-Commander is at 1 turn out.
All the information I read stated that Keihn jets were measured in millimeters. So, my front main jet is a 205 and the rear is 210. Where did you read otherwise?
I tried turning out my fuel screws last night and throttle response got better. I went all the way to 4 turns out and it kept getting better. Going to swap to larger pilots. But, now that is something that is bothering me. Because last year, when I was tuning the bike, it felt like the carbs were getting better as I kept going down sizes on the pilots. I am just going to chalk this up to me not knowing as much as I do now about tuning these carbs.
I have NO IDEA how many times I have taken the carbs off or have changed jets. Oh! Speaking of which, I got a Pit Posse Angle Driver and it works awesome! I got it brand new for $20 on eBay. It is surprisingly made very well. I can now change jets very easily through the frame without removing my GPR V4 stabilizer, lifting or removing the tank, airbox, etc. Getting the bottom of the float bowls off and changing jets are a piece of cake. However, putting things back in place took a little prop rod to hold the bottom of the float bowl in place, while you get one screw in. I needed to do it this way, simply because there isn't enough room to get a hand in there while the tool is in there as well. It is still much faster than taking everything apart.
All the information I read stated that Keihn jets were measured in millimeters. So, my front main jet is a 205 and the rear is 210. Where did you read otherwise?
I tried turning out my fuel screws last night and throttle response got better. I went all the way to 4 turns out and it kept getting better. Going to swap to larger pilots. But, now that is something that is bothering me. Because last year, when I was tuning the bike, it felt like the carbs were getting better as I kept going down sizes on the pilots. I am just going to chalk this up to me not knowing as much as I do now about tuning these carbs.
I have NO IDEA how many times I have taken the carbs off or have changed jets. Oh! Speaking of which, I got a Pit Posse Angle Driver and it works awesome! I got it brand new for $20 on eBay. It is surprisingly made very well. I can now change jets very easily through the frame without removing my GPR V4 stabilizer, lifting or removing the tank, airbox, etc. Getting the bottom of the float bowls off and changing jets are a piece of cake. However, putting things back in place took a little prop rod to hold the bottom of the float bowl in place, while you get one screw in. I needed to do it this way, simply because there isn't enough room to get a hand in there while the tool is in there as well. It is still much faster than taking everything apart.
Spent 5 hours yesterday refitting insulation under the house on my back. Walking around like Im 110 years old today. Damn dog.
Yeah Ive been doing the through the frame thing for a while. I moved the bottle.
Yeah shame we cant get the bigger mains so we have to drill.
#335
I saw this under a magnifying glass. I was worried, but I can always go back to stock.
I would love to install factory jets, but nobody makes them as big as we are using. Unless you possibly know of any companies that make 205 & 210 main jets for our carbs? Anything smaller and it runs very lean, well, my bike anyways.
I would love to install factory jets, but nobody makes them as big as we are using. Unless you possibly know of any companies that make 205 & 210 main jets for our carbs? Anything smaller and it runs very lean, well, my bike anyways.
As for sourcing jets, have you tried Sudco? If they don;t have it, it doesn't exist....lol
#336
Another option that you guys might want to explore is to plug the air bleed.
Then drop the mains around 10 - 14 sizes and see how things work.
This is what HRC did when running ram air and might be the reason they went with it as it does work well up top but bottom end ride-ability suffers.
Then drop the mains around 10 - 14 sizes and see how things work.
This is what HRC did when running ram air and might be the reason they went with it as it does work well up top but bottom end ride-ability suffers.
#337
8541Hawk, would you be able to give any insight on what could be causing our part throttle hesitation? At 50%-75% throttle during a gear change, I get a hesitation. Like it's not getting enough fuel. However, full throttle runs are fantastic! No hesitation at all.
I swapped out my DJ short springs and put my stock springs back in and it seems to have fixed the issue, but I was only able to ride the bike for a few miles, so not sure if it is really fixed actually. Could this possibly be a slide issue? I have Dr. Honda veloctiy stacks and if it matters Factory Pro needles with one slide hole.
#338
Just checked Sudco and they only have up to 200. It was worth checking though. Thanks.
8541Hawk, would you be able to give any insight on what could be causing our part throttle hesitation? At 50%-75% throttle during a gear change, I get a hesitation. Like it's not getting enough fuel. However, full throttle runs are fantastic! No hesitation at all.
I swapped out my DJ short springs and put my stock springs back in and it seems to have fixed the issue, but I was only able to ride the bike for a few miles, so not sure if it is really fixed actually. Could this possibly be a slide issue? I have Dr. Honda veloctiy stacks and if it matters Factory Pro needles with one slide hole.
8541Hawk, would you be able to give any insight on what could be causing our part throttle hesitation? At 50%-75% throttle during a gear change, I get a hesitation. Like it's not getting enough fuel. However, full throttle runs are fantastic! No hesitation at all.
I swapped out my DJ short springs and put my stock springs back in and it seems to have fixed the issue, but I was only able to ride the bike for a few miles, so not sure if it is really fixed actually. Could this possibly be a slide issue? I have Dr. Honda veloctiy stacks and if it matters Factory Pro needles with one slide hole.
#340
Will test ride it as it is. See if the bigger idles help. If not then I will block one slide hole. Worth a crack.
But like the idea of blocking the air jet. I have though that more than once.
#341
#342
#343
KEIHIN : Main Jet CVK/Main Air Jet FCR [313-100]
#344
I bought jets here last time, they have required sizes. But shipping costs is higher.
KEIHIN : Main Jet CVK/Main Air Jet FCR [313-100]
KEIHIN : Main Jet CVK/Main Air Jet FCR [313-100]
I wish I had known they had these jet sizes a month ago. A member here was buying some parts from Webike and qualified for free shipping. He invited us to get in on his order to take advantage of the free shipping.
#346
I never went leaner on the mains. I was at 198F & 200R and it was lean up top, so that's why I drilled the mains to the equivalent of 205F & 210R. It feels great now. I'm at one turn out on the Flo-Commander, so I think this is it for the mains.
#347
Top of the list is main jets and the bottom of the list looks like those might be main air jets for FCR carbs. This is just an assumption though.
I think I'll hold off buying those 210 mains. It would be great if those are in fact the correct mains, then I would buy 202-212 mains. Along with the Flo-Commander, this would help tuning a lot.
I think I'll hold off buying those 210 mains. It would be great if those are in fact the correct mains, then I would buy 202-212 mains. Along with the Flo-Commander, this would help tuning a lot.
Last edited by CruxGNZ; 05-17-2015 at 07:35 AM. Reason: mo info
#348
edit: I bought sizes not marked as "in stock" without problem. But generally if they have item which cannot be provided in weeks, they refund money back without problem. I was pretty satisfied with japan.webike service.
Last edited by Stephan; 05-17-2015 at 10:15 AM.
#349
So is it safe to say that I need to get my setup checked out. After removing PAIRS and adding crankcase breathers and a K&N i definitely picked up some juice up top but am now struck with the part throttle burps....It almost sounds as though the slides close off randomly.
#351
Confused about what the hell is wrong with my tuning, I decided to try something and bog the hell out of the engine. 6th gear at 35mph and I floored it. I was able to hear each intake and exhaust pulse, but the front and rear cylinder weren't equal. You could not only hear it, but feel that each cylinder wasn't equal. This confused me, because I have sync'd the carbs each time that I needed to remove the carbs for any work that needed to be done.
I went home and sync'd my carbs again. This time, I checked out each vacuum line on the bike and made sure there were no cracks (everything was replaced with new lines a couple years ago when I built the bike). Turns out there wasn't anything wrong with my bike, but with the damn Two Bottle carb sync device! One hose had a very small crack in it. How this happened, I have no clue. I made the Two Bottle carb sync device two years ago and all the parts were brand new.
I replaced the lines and sync'd the carbs again. They were WAY off. I took 'er for a ride, and it is SO much better! No more hessitation. This tuning issue was just because the carbs weren't sync'd? Damnit!
On the ride home, I turned the fuel screws out some (now at 3.5F & 4R) and it felt a lot better, so I am installing 48 pilots tonight.
I went home and sync'd my carbs again. This time, I checked out each vacuum line on the bike and made sure there were no cracks (everything was replaced with new lines a couple years ago when I built the bike). Turns out there wasn't anything wrong with my bike, but with the damn Two Bottle carb sync device! One hose had a very small crack in it. How this happened, I have no clue. I made the Two Bottle carb sync device two years ago and all the parts were brand new.
I replaced the lines and sync'd the carbs again. They were WAY off. I took 'er for a ride, and it is SO much better! No more hessitation. This tuning issue was just because the carbs weren't sync'd? Damnit!
On the ride home, I turned the fuel screws out some (now at 3.5F & 4R) and it felt a lot better, so I am installing 48 pilots tonight.
#355
I just received...
about the coolest thing EVAR ....
in the mail today.
(and I've got some cool stuff in the past....)
I have a CRUX-F.I.L. MOD !!!!!!!
WOO-HOOO!!!!
I'm giddy like a school-girl with her first crush on a boy!!
(well, sorta like that )
about the coolest thing EVAR ....
in the mail today.
(and I've got some cool stuff in the past....)
I have a CRUX-F.I.L. MOD !!!!!!!
WOO-HOOO!!!!
I'm giddy like a school-girl with her first crush on a boy!!
(well, sorta like that )
#357
I have a trackday on June 2nd, so I wont have time for the dyno-tune b4 that.
After that, I will have some time...next trackday, June 14th.
Would it be wise for me to buy the recommended jets ahead of time?
Or just let my local shop deal with it?? Sounds like some may be hard to source...
After that, I will have some time...next trackday, June 14th.
Would it be wise for me to buy the recommended jets ahead of time?
Or just let my local shop deal with it?? Sounds like some may be hard to source...
#358
Last edited by mikstr; 05-22-2015 at 08:41 PM.
#360
Yes, I'm running a variation of this on my race bike... But then again, it made a nice chunky 150+ bhp before that mod, and the change in outright hp is pretty marginal really... Most of the gains for me, is the peaky top end, and the fact that I finally can get that and keep the meaty midrange that I so love from this engine...
But no, the air box isn't the limiting factor for the horsepower on this engine... You hit the ceiling on a number of components around the 160-165 bhp mark or there abouts... I'm pretty sure Im skimming the edge of reliability with that engine, but damn, it's worth it every time I flog it out of a corner, and down a straight... Even better when you chase down newer bikes...