WTH? r/r
 

Anyone have a clue what r/r this is? Nothing on it indicating part number or brand. Also looks like someone pulled the wires from the plug and added clips to use this one. The clips were very large and nearly touching, if they weren't, which leads me to believe that is why I have been having a lot of electronic problems lately. No gauges, no indicator lights, battery dies overnight off the tender....

Looks like an R1 R/R to me.

+1. The older ones have plugs like that.

Thanks guys on the help. Anyone have a picture of the oem plug and r/r? It looks like someone pulled the wires from the plug and put slip on clips.

Found out exactly what the previous owner did... Firestorm / SuperHawk (VTR1000F) Regulator Rectifier Modification

Yep... that's how mine looks as it is not easy to get ahold of an older R1 r/r plug...

Attachment 25806
Attachment 25807

Granted, it's not ideal because it's not waterproof this way, but I think that after you put the plugs in you can fill it with hot melt glue to make it waterproof... I haven't bothered yet but it's in the plans...

what is the pin without a wire for.is it ok to have that kind of r/r on the shawk.

It's a decoy!

Actually I have no idea... I put the r/r on awhile ago with no problems whatsoever so far... going through my purchase history it appears to be from a 06-07 R6. Wiring diagrams for the bike show only 5 wires coming from it. Half of the parts on e-bay only have 5 plugs too.

You got me curious... I hadn't looked into my r/r till just now... I had put it on when all I knew were to change the CCT's and replace the r/r and then the Shawk is good to ride. I can't seem to find a part number either... I'm assuming it's a MOSFET, but can't confirm that. What I do know is that the voltage numbers coming to the battery are all well within spec when it's installed...

Edit: Model number SH678-11 so it is an inferior shunt-based r/r...damn :)

thanks,it helps to know you been running it without any problems.those seem easier to find.
i will look into it as far as wiring and see what it is for.it might come in handy.

OK, thanks again. Not that all checks out.. and talking to the tech at the honda shop it appears it is my stator. I checked the manual already, but it doesn't say how to change it out. I did a search and came up empty on any "how to" threads for replacing the stator. Any help there would be greatly appreciated.

I honestly doubt it's the stator... They very rarely fail... most likely a bad grounding or corroded wire somewhere, I'd try that before swapping the stator, as it costs a whole lot less...

If it helps in my thread , i also thought it was my stator . However i changed my r/r to an mosfet r1, and still had problems so bought another new battery (other one was only a month old) and all my problems went away.

Which is a good way of masking the real problem... Which will likely show up as another dead battery in a while...;)

Before connecting the spade connectors fit a larger heat srink over all the wires. Connect up & heat shrink it all. The heat shrink should fit over the complete terminal block encasing it completly.

Note you have done a great job with your individual wires just repeat with the whole using a bigger heat shrink:congrats:

tweety ,,you had to follow my other thread to get the jest of it. the old r/r was bad thus it ruined the new month old battery (unbeknownst to me at the time as the battery was reading ok I thought) I changed the r/r out to a mosfet r1 r/r and it still wouldn't work properly (being as that battery was bad even though it seemed ok) so I bought a newer battery and hence it was all good now that I have the r1 r/r.

No... As in no, not as in I say no and you correct me...

One, I did read your other thread... Two, yes you are somewhat correct, the old R/R played a part in making that battery fail... But a bad battery is never, never, ever the sickness, it's just a symptom... The same goes for a bad R/R...

The reason the stock R/R fails isn't that it's not a Mosfet type... If it was, they would explode the first time the new owner stuck the key in the bike and turned in 97... The reason the R/R fails are several, but the main components are age and bad wiring...

The non Mosfet R/R's age faster because of the heat they create, but they more important component is the fact that Mosfet R/R or not, after 5+ years parts of the wiring like contacts, groundpoints and other parts of the wiring has oxidized and corroded, creating resistance... And that's what kills the R/R and battery... And it also kills a Mosfet type R/R, it just takes longer time since they are more robust...

So, did you fix that when you swapped the R/R? If you didn't, my initial statement stands... If you did, your correction is valid...

Can someone let me know what size female spade connectors I need to fit an R6 R/R?

Hi I posted a link to the part in reply over at VTR1000.org

Female .250 terminal (sealed)

Get the r/r, take it to the hardware store, try the clips until they fit.

Thanks Wicky, I did see your link but was looking for something in UK. Just after the individual connectors rather than a plug in job.

Sounds like a plan :)

At the relatively cheap buy in cost of a better regulator and wiring set up.. I would not even mess with trying to use an existing swapped in non MOSFET unit.
Buy a FH012, FH011, FH010 MOSFET regulator, buy the correct sealed plug set up from Eastern Beaver in just a few $$ and little time, you will have a superior R/R and sealed plug set up.
Add some upgraded wiring from stator to R/R and R/R to battery.. and you can then forget the whole darn thing for another 10 years or so.