Who's found a deal on 530 chain/sprockets?
 

I just picked up a '98 and I don't want to dump a ton money into it nor do I plan on too many mods. It has a few mods already but the stock bike would have been "enjoyable enough" for me. :) It's in desperate need of a new chain and sprockets. I've dug around ebay but I'm not sure of the link counts and tooth counts or ratios for the 530 conversion. What did these bikes come with stock? 520 16/41? I read the original chain can be upgraded to 530 but I don't know what that does to the link count. Same or different? A steel rear sprocket is also fine by me. I'd like an o-ring chain though.

Any suggestions for a chain and sprockets package for me? Anyone here selling a good used set?

Next thing I have to do is weld the clutch cover because the other owner's JB weld is leaking :rolleyes: and the replacement levers should be here this week. I still have a shifter to fix, mirrors, bar ends, grpis, turn signals all around, clean up the hose routing, clean everything, and then a repaint. It's a dark metalic blue now which I've grown fond of so I'll probably stick with that.

Stock came with a 530. 16/41 if I'm not mistaken. I would go 520, in my opinion you will not need the extra weight/strength of a 530. When I did my 520 conversion I went -1/+2.

Unless you want to wheelie alot stick with the stock countershaft sprocket (16T) although you may want to go 2 teeth up on the rear (43T). The chain is 104 links if I remember correctly but most chains will be 110 or 120 and you cut to fit.

These guys most of the time have great prices and FAST shipping. Motorcycle Parts and Motorcycle Accessories | D2Moto
and check out Cycle Gear - Motorcycle Gear and Motorcycle Accessories - Cycle Gear

I personally don't care for any "store brand" chains. Do yourself a favor and spend a couple more bucks and get a name brand like RK, Regina, etc etc.

I bought a chain at Cycle Gear, their house brand that they claim to be RK made for them. Well if that's true RK left out a few processes at the end because I kept getting tiny metal slivers in my hand when installing. I suspect it's made in China and the final finishing process are minimal.

My bike had a cheap $54 shipped chain on it when I got it and it lasted all of about 2 weeks before it broke. Don't skimp out. I would stick with a 530 as these bikes are torque monsters and the added strength will help for longevity and will just hold up better. If you really need the lighter 520 then you can go that route but you'll need to spend more money on a better quality chain and/or be replacing it more often. I just bought the top end DID chain and it cost me over $200 for the chain and I got Sunstar steel sprockets and they were about $45 for the rear adn $27 for the front. Most 530 chains will come with a rivet style master link so you'll have to have a shop press the link for you or you'll need to buy a tool for it. If you happen to be in or near the Seattle area I have the rivet tool and would be happy to help you out with it.

GTS - I'm in Illinois actually. Thanks for the offer. There's a shop in town that would pop the master link in for me.

I figured if the 520 was weak, even if I get a cheap 530 it would be an improvement. If the 530 has wider links, it could cause less sprocket wear as well. I'm not sure of the link count for the stock ratios. Is the link spacing on 530 different then 520? Buy long and cut it? I've seen a few advertised as 102 links.

I think it's supposed to be 104 links. Or you can just put the sprockets on, adjust the tire to full slack and wrap the chain around the sprockets and see where it lies. Mark the pin for where it needs to be cut and take it to the shop to cut/rivet. The nice thing about the swingarm setup is you can actually take the whole chain off as an endless chain without removing the swingarm. Makes it kind of nice if you have to take the chain to the shop to be riveted.

these guys make a direct fit chain for our bikes...

Sprocket | Chain | Motorcycles Sprocket | ATV Sprocket

made in USA

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I've never used the above, but I plan on it when my chain goes out...

Good ol' Krouse! My dad ran one of those chains on his old ATC350X and it was one sturdy chain! He put it on and it was a little tight but he figured it'd stretch a little in the begining and it didn't really stretch at all! I wouldn't have a problem going with them either.

Can you guys tell me a little about the ratios? This bike will never be raced and won't see alot of highway miles. Most of my driving will be Wisconsin county roads and to and from work which is only 2 miles. I wouldn't mind a little more torque and was thinking maybe a 16:43 would suit me.

Where does the RPM sit when crusing at 65mph? Or does someone have the gear ratios so I can plug them into the calculator and experiment with different sprockets?

EDIT - I see gearing commander has the bike listed. Looks like the stock ratio isn't too bad. How is the seat-of-your-pants feel of 16:43 vs. 16:41?

Honestly when the front of the bike will lift on command at any point in 1st gear I really don't see the point in gearing it lower. It will basically just move all the gears effectively lower by about 1 gear and make 1st useless. Not to mention it'll most likely hurt your mileage.

The only reason I do a 16/43 is because Honda's are typically under geared in 6th. But truth be told if you're happy with how it's pulling/running with stock gearing stick with it. Why some guys go 15/43 is totally beyond me unless they want to do 3rd gear wheelies at will! Lord knows the front is gonna come up anyway!

I ended up going with a 16:43 set. I ordered everything seperatly because the cheap ebay chain sets didn't list the strenght of the chain. I found one that did and stated it's a 7000lb chain. The chain I ordered is rated at 9,850lbs. It's a 102 link Volar and I have a feeling it's going to be short. I don't think there's enough wheel adjustment for 2 teeth. The shop in town may have to add a link or two when they put in the master.

I went with this chain.
Honda VTR 1000 Superhawk 1998-2005 O-Ring Chain - Nickel | eBay

This JT front.
JT 530 FRONT Sprocket: HONDA VTR 1000 F 1998-2004 16T | eBay

And this JT rear.
JT 530 REAR Sprocket: HONDA VTR 1000 F 1998-2004 43T | eBay

Stock 102 link chain will fit with 16/43 with just enough room for adjustment. Bonus: you have a shorter wheelbase now (and slightly quicker turn in as a result).

Thanks. That's good to know. I suppose it'll wheelie easier too. -joy- I'm not a stunt rider. :cool: It was fun back when I rode dirt but on the street it's too risky and hurt more when you fall. lol

Dude I'd be extremely weary of that chain. $50 for a chain is just not going to be much of a chain. My was suposedly a "heavy duty" chain and it literally just snaped a pin. JT sprockets are OK but they are just cheap sprockets as well. They shoudl last a awhile but for another $10 per sprocket you could get a lot better that'll last a lot longer. I guess the good thing is if you get all cheap stuff it'll all wear out quick together. On a liter bike you really want to spend some money in this area with the amount of power being put through that chain. Just my .02 after dealing with cheap crap from the PO.

I won't argue with you. The chain on the bike now is toast as are the sprockets. This bike was a fixer upper and the chain I bought will get it drivable. It gives me time to save up for higher quality goodies. The Volar chain was rated to 9850lb vs. 7000lb for one of the cheap ebay chain/sprocket sets. For now this bike will get me to and from work which is only a few miles and it looks and sounds better then a scooter. ;)

I usually buy form these guys but there are a few other places you can get the stuff also: VTR 1000F 97-06 Sprocket Center

You can run a 520 chain if you like but make sure you get one with a high load rating.

Large V-twins are hard on chains and it is not a place to try and save a few dollars. This is due to the 270-450 firing pulse which can really yank on a chain .

So stay away from the cheap stuff as the high quality, though more expensive, parts are actually cheaper to use in the long run because you will get a lot longer life out of them if you keep them clean.

As for what gearing to run, well do a search because it is a topic that has be debated, quite heatedly at time, a bit to often on this board and I think pretty much all the opinions have been covered.

Stumbled across a post on the Bandit website mentioning Sunstar SS530RTG1 120 link chains. Knew about Sunstar sprockets- good stuff- but not their chains. Did a search on Amazon and found these chains for $79.20- delivered. Retail is $233.95. Got three of 'em last night. 9,900 lbs tensile strength, rivet style master link, made in Japan. Didn't need any chains but couldn't pass at this price. Just a heads up...

With all the stop and go driving I do on my superhawk my mileage actually was better with the -1/+2. On the highway the mileage would probably suffer but I don't use the highway very often.

I could only wish this bike could come up in 3rd.

Especially with that gearing I'm sure it could once you practiced enough. I saw a guy pull it up in 3rd on a SH with just a full system and I think stock gearing. He bet the owner he could so he let him try and sure enough he brought it right up! LOl!

Have you accounted for the error on your odo due to the change in gearing? If not you are getting much less mileage than you think you are.



As the old saying goes..... twist the throttle pookie.... ;)

you might wanna check this place out. Killer deal on chains 520 though. I would go 520 for sure. Ive been running this kit for months now without a problem. I looked up the strength of this kit and its plenty strong.
Call them up and they will order whatever combo you want as far as teeth count. Cool part is that the rear sprocket it metal and not weak aluminum, but its almost as light as the aluminum ones. I couldnt find a better deal anywhere close to this one.....

Super Bike Supply - Your source for sportbike parts and accessories geared for racing and street bikes and their owners. : EK 520 Conversion -

That is a pretty good deal. I'm confused now. What did the SH have stock? 530 right?

That chain in the link has these specs. 9000 lb tensile strength, Max 1000cc street, 750 cc dirt, Rated to 100 horsepower, Weight per 100 links (lbs): 3.70, Wear life index: 1500.

stock is 530. 15 tooth front 41 tooth rear sprockets.
I went with 16 and 43 and I think its perfect. Feels right for the bike.
I thought the stock gearing was just too tall. My mileage seems to be about the same. I am off about 10mph on the gauge though as checked with gps
Note: this chain comes with a rivet style master link.

Oh really? So stock is 2.73:1? 16:43 is 2.68:1. Not much change really. Gearing Commander was saying the stock set was 16:41 which is 2.56:1 so the 16:43 is a little larger jump. I'll see how feels. Apperently I can swap around a bit without changing the chain length. I figured since I'm ordering sprockets I might as well give it a bit more torque. I'm happy as long as it drives. :cool:

Stock is 16/41

+1

my bad on that. long day yesterday.... anyways. 16/43 is the way to go for me.