What is factory and what isnt?
 

I doubt anyone has asked and search came up nil. When I bought my VTR I thought it had a few minor mods. I was mostly wrong. factory showa rear and nissin calipers. But I have a nice gold colored chain drive that looks and feels like anodized aluminum. The only part's I see that is after market for sure is my carbon fiber lower pan and stainless break lines. Ill take a shot of the sprocket tonight.
Also I am a light guy and pretty new to liter bikes. I have zero complaints about the
suspension. I never even touched it from the last guys.

With all of that said What might I have missed?

this bike out performs in all areas except for it seems like a bear to lean.
Put up lots of photos. will put up more if needed.

But I have a nice gold colored chain drive that looks and feels like anodized aluminum.

You mean the rear sprocket?
Might be a Stealth, which is a steel chainring aluminum carrier.
if the whole thing is aluminum, start looking for a replacement, it won't last long.

Is it like this?

https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...1&d=1472220163



Also I am a light guy and pretty new to liter bikes. I have zero complaints about the
suspension. I never even touched it from the last guys.

This is one of those you only know the best you have ridden,,, and won't know how much better it can be until you do the work. At the very least spring it front and rear for your weight in riding gear, get some fresh fluid in the forks. But real benefit and change comes from valving the forks and springs, plus a replacement shock, sprung, valved to match.

With all of that said What might I have missed?

Nothing? Lots? no way for use to know.. Take a bunch of pics from all angles and post up or store them someplace and send us a link to the gallery and we will see what we see.

this bike out performs in all areas except for it seems like a bear to lean.
Put up lots of photos. will put up more if needed.

Wrong pressure? Wrong tire? Mismatched (in a bad way) tires?, Steering head bearings bad, tight, loose, rusty, still the old ball type and the grease is long past needing replacement. Tire has a worn flat spot. Or just different from any other bike you have ridden so needs to be adapted to. I ride dozens of differnt bikes a month as part of work... I cant say i feel the VTR is any harder to turn in than any other properly sorted bike.

I was at work and my boss makes my brain go mush.
 

Sprocket is what I meant Ill snap a photo now. Sorry for the wrong term. as said above brain was on the fritz.

Ill blast up a bunch of photos. I had zero time on a liter before. Always been too chicken to mash up a buddys. Part of the reason I got the VTR is because I know sport twins a bit. My tool kit is 6000 miles away waiting for a friend to mail it so nothing too sensative has been inspected.

The bike just feels like its fighting me to lean down farther. I put most of it to a lack in experience. The spring to weight is going to be on the back burner until I gain 30lbs. I also am tearing down the engine this winter to put the internals where I want them. I hope to have some fresh wheels on it by spring or a 1000rr front end with everything proper but the front end is a big dream for now. Ill do the fluid asap and try to get a torque wrench for the tripple. Ill look around the forum for a rebuild thread.

https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...r-oil-5006.jpg
I am new to bike ownership my friend. It looks like I was either wrong (most likley) or it has a thin ring of steel around something else. If thats the case I have never seen a sprocket like that.

A quick check for sprocket material would be to check it with a simple magnet. If it sticks, it is steel. If it doesn't stick, likely aluminum.

I ummm...
 

Assumed... IT's indeed anodized aluminum with steel gear teeth pressed discreetly into it. Is that stock!? the P/O took good care of it.
Yeah didnt think of that either. No beer no brain. Thanks!

That is an all aluminum, gold anodized rear spocket, not stock, the teeth will be aluminum also. Only the SuperSprox sprocket has an aluminum carrier with a steel tooth weel riveted on, it is the one E. Marquez pictured. This one will wear quickly using it on the roads, great for a trackday or competition bike though. , I have attached a pic of the OEM style sprocket and a Supersprox mounted up on a wheel.

You guys are great.
 

Ill look at the brand in the morning. I am betting your right but I had the magnet stick to the teeth. May have been metal I didnt see. Its 2am here... I am betting this bike has a few subtle mods. Ill get balsy and take the tank off to clean the carbs. more photos then.

If it is magnetic, it will be all steel and painted(powder coated?) gold.
If steel it will wear decently, if aluminum buy a replacement now, if you ride every day, by the time you get the new sprocket set that aluminum one will need replacement.

Thanks for the info.
 

Pretty sure its aluminum. Probably wearing fast. looks like its starting to sharktooth from the hills. Im lucky enough that parts come next morning. More curious as to whats in my airbox. Ill get on those photos when im more awake.

Regarding the bike being hard to lean put a 6mm spacer under the rear shock.

That will help.

So I didnt get on anything at all today. MY bike is sitting outside in the weather crying.
(No rain no sun.)
My wife failed to inform me its our nieces birthday. Tomorrow I am going to snap some photos and go for a good ride.

You should get rid of that sprocket asap, or it will get rid of you. They wear out like a pencil eraser especially on this bike.

Get a steel one and you can forget it for thousands of miles. That one will be dangerous after a couple rides.

Not saying I wont but for now its all I got. pay is by month and I check it daily. If it gets nasty Ill use the wifes car until I can get another. Ill look into that super sprox sprocket asap. Gotta do my carbs tonight. Bike stalled a few times this morning. Pics posted btw. Ill rip the tank off tonight. Im gonna check into TI as an option I have no idea if they make them but ill look.

Titanium for a sprocket? Not that I have ever seen, and wear characteristics would be about the same as aluminum in that application.
Not a good material choice.
The simple and cheap answer is a steel sprocket..remember the longer you use that AL sprocket and it wears, the more it is wearing and damaging the chain, which will then require replacement at more $$$$.

Replace that sprocket BEFORE it is worn if you want to re use the chain.

The SuperSprox Stealth sprocket is the only lighter weight one I know of that will have good wear characteristics due to the steel chain ring.

On the stalling / Carbs deal...

Do five things....

1. Confirm current jetting and carb tuning components to be OEM or aftermarket
2. Confirm what air cleaner you have in there, OEM or aftermarket, if aftermarket who's?
3. Adjust the TPS to 500 ohms
4. Adjust the fuel screws to highest idle
5. Then sync the carbs...

That should take care of the random carb fart and stalling issue unless there is a vac leak, plug carb circuit, worn component, or incorrect jetting.

If money or economy is a factor, just buy a steel one. The steel/ aluminum is exotic and best for racing where you really care about weight. On the street you don't. Its more for the bling factor and will be lost on most anyway.

I ride year round and my bike is my commuter vehicle in all weather so the last thing I will do is create a point of needless wear (as mentioned a worn sprocket is bad for you chain) so it is going to cost you more money.

Don't sleep on it. A new steel sprocket is cheap ($42 to you door)
Sunstar Sprocket Rear 41T 530 Steel for Honda VTR1000F Super Hawk 1998 2005 | eBay

Thanks guys
 

Well not to get too far into it. But ill only be low on cash until next month is over. Wife loaned me and since I got the bike I been working way more.
If its my bike im doing it all both sprockets unknown chain and if I can swing it bearings. That supersprox sprocket looks like a nice item.
Gave up on throwing off the tank tonight as its still full and its going to p!$$ rain tomorrow night. Im going to rip the carbs off.
I cant use the search well but been looking for an efi writeup. Saw an article on tripod cars and after fustration he had some luck.
Up to my neck in odd jobs too. livingroom looks like a tiwaneese computer chop shop lol.
again I know what you guys mean. Thanks for the info on Ti. Also since I am an idiot at search thanks for the carb info. been looking for an hr.

https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...uggin-5032.jpg Its so ugly not knn think its washable? can I neuter this catch can deal with no downside?
https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...miles-5033.jpg

Looks like a washable gauze filter, were it me I'd toss in a fresh stock filter and go from there.

The crank case breather bottle helps to accumulate , condense and retain oil vapor, vice letting it make a mess... the Bottle has no performance down side for most of us.. If building a monster motor..Id be inclined to vent that hot oily air away from the intake air. But short of that, leave it be.

2 am beer wore off.
 

Just have to thank you guys especially Erik I believe your name is for keeping up with the thread and the sound advice. Dunno what a pilot is so ill google that. I know what a jet and needle n seat are from my sled days.
Bad news. Volt meter is on the frits. good news bike has torx bits. Gonna ask my father in law if hes got one tomorrow. Or ill take my carbs and filter to the bike shop I talked so good about. I never sold one car with a bad filter. so maybe he owes me that for what
I paid for a service.
cables were sloppy. Couldnt resist pulling the plates outta the boots. I was going to machine them until I saw the carbon pattern. cables snugged new or washed filter and carb job it should pull way nicer. been a dog today

Cant beat that with a bowl of juice.
 

5.33 bottom to middle pins. top to mid is an odd reading. 90 or something. guide I need 500 ohm and I think this meter is for bigger stuff so if im in the correct pin posistion its close but ill move it a bit. Please shout if im on the wrong pins im gonna read up again. 977 ohm. idiot behnd the machine had the switch in the wrong slot. Gonna read up on carb synching after I open the bowls.

Go easy there mate.

That air filter looks nasty.

Get rid of it and buy a new original . Hi Flo do a good one for a fair price.

Be very careful of the plastic choke fittings if you remove the carbs .They break easily.

Does your bike still have the PAIR system on it ? If so get rid of it.

Guys were spot on.
 

I was swearing the first time I started it up and when I suddenly irreversibly stalled going up a hill. Shut off valve was off and carbs had fuel in them both times. ( Kicking my own @$$).
No PAIR at leas not from what I see.
took those flow restrictors out.
Washed the filter good turned a nice purple and Ive gotten ok ( Not good) at checking the media. I will be doing a screen when I do my full build.
Chokes had some grunge.
Got er to 530 ohm after putting around for a long while. I have not read a post yet that said pull the brass anti crush ring ( or whatever it is) from the tps. Did not pull the bowls as the filter was filthy but the carbs were the cleanest Ive ever seen. ( aint broke mentality.)
Set my throttle too tight so im going to look into that as the handle was loose. I have cruise! ( Fixing after work.)
Bike scares the crap out of me. wants to pull the wheel in first and second as before It would sometimes. My wife said the bike looks faster and also the bike got to speed much faster.
Idle is much cleaner. Didnt balance the carbs yet ill buy a line tomorrow and fix that with the throttle. Set em by ear for now.
I claim no HP gain but my idle is cleaner and it seems to get there faster.
Ive herd through the grape vine that the engine controls on this bike limit max speed for japan but I don't think thats true. If anyone reads this let me know.

All in all thanks. I documented the whole thing. Ill post up soon.