Swing Arm Pivot Bolt CC "Tunnel" Greasing
 

Has anyone done so or know any reason it should not be done?

When I removed the swing arm I discovered corrosion on the pivot bolt and am strongly considering filling AMAP the "tunnel" the bolt passes through in the rear of the crankcase. The tunnel is sealed off from the transmission "bay" and water and debris appears passes by the plastic bushings on each side of the crankcase tunnel. You'd think filling this cavity with waterproof grease would encapsulate and minimize corrosion development on the bolt.

I do not want to remove the plastic bushings for fear of cracking them but they inhibit access and dirt egress into / from the tunnel.

Has anyone removed them and then successfully reinstalled a "used" set" of these bushing, and if so how?

It's a good idea to check and grease swing arm and linkage check bearings esp if used all year around.

www.vtr1000.org • View topic - *** IMPORTANT*** Swingarm and linkage bearings servicing***

That goes without saying along with the shock eye bearings (my Penske 8981 is at TS&E for a major rebuild & update); a new chain and sprockets will round out the rear drive and suspension refresh.

I'm talking about where the SA pivot bolt passes through the rear of the CC !

I'm also thinking I could drill a small hole in the rear of the crankcase into the swing arm pivot bolt tunnel in an accessible location, tap threads in it and install a Zerk fitting, and pump grease in easy-peasy. No?

You could..but unless your somehow forcing water and mud in there (like with a pressure washer, or off road use) .. I would think a liberal application of a water proof grease (I like BelRay or Maxima) would do fine for a dozen years or so.

If you decide to install a grease fitting.. drill the through hole (grease channel) fairly small say 2mm, then drill a shallow hole needed for threading, and use a plug tap.. No need for a large hole all the way through the case.

Thanks Erik.

Most Zerk fittings require at least a 3/16" deep hole if not more for the threads to bite and I estimate the crankcase wall thickness to not be much more than that in the "zone". If I do go b'Zerk I'll pick a spot with minimum structural implications.

As to water and muck finding its way in there, I never use a pressure washer but after 15 years and 82k miles (thousands in the rain unfortunately), I did find crud in there and the pivot bolt had lost its plating in spots with very light corrosion.

The case wall thickness looks to be about 7~8mm where the swing arm pivot bolt goes through.
https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...1&d=1388833884

https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...1&d=1388833911

Grease fittings can be press in or tapered thread or straight thread
An M6 tapered thread zerk has about 7mm overall thread area.. and it only needs about 2/3 that to be threaded in the base material.

A M6 self threading flush style has about 5mm of thread area and would easily work in this application

https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...1&d=1388834396


An M6 self threading straight grease fitting has 5.5mm of thread area, and again would work perfect in this application
https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...1&d=1388834705

Great Photos, were you rebuilding your own VTR?

The good old USA 1/4"-28 work too

1/4"-28 Taper Thread Grease Fittings, 1/4"-28 Zerk Fittings, Taper Thread Grease Fitting

METRIC GREASE FITTINGS | METRIC ZERK FITTINGS | METRIC GREASE FITTINGS

1/4"-28 Straight Thread Grease Fittings, Straight Thread Grease Zerks

But looking for stainless steel



[/QUOTE]A M6 self threading flush style has about 5mm of thread area and would easily work in this application

[IMG]https://www.superhawkforum.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=16518&stc=1&d=13888343 96


An M6 self threading straight grease fitting has 5.5mm of thread area, and again would work perfect in this application
[IMG]https://www.superhawkforum.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=16519&stc=1&d=13888347 05[/QUOTE]