Street tires and sizes question for sturdy street riding
 

I want to get new good tires, are the new pp3 street tires good? I am getting a Scott's steering stabilizer...I would like tires and size to ride on the street; and feel more sturdy and safe not wobbly or easy to turn...if anyone could help me out on rear and front sizes and the best tires for street use I do not go on track yet...thanks!
-Shane

Front tyre size 120/70 x 17
Rear tyre size 180/55 x 17

you beet me to the PM on the steering stabilizer :evil:
haha

As for tires, everyone that i know runnign the pp3's love them, i have the pp2's and they are amazing very stable, dont slip out, warm up quick and good tread wear, so with the 3's being an improved version i would say they are well worth it.

now size on the other hand will probably make this turn into an "oil thread" cause everyone has there own preference there, i love the 180's i wouldnt go to a 190 personally but you might be running a 190 and like the way they feel for you.

My bikes having problems it feels like its not straight or the suspension to hard so I wanted to try Scott's and see if that helps haha :)..also wicky is that size for thicker tires to feel more stable on road?i don't want a bunch of people with their opinions...I want a thicker tire to be able to cruise cross country and feel safe dont care about turning faster...thanks in advance!!

If by thicker you mean wider the limit for the rim would be 190/50x17 on the rear the front is already at the limit.

The power p's are sport tires the TC's are sport touring tires.

If your bike is not tracking or has bent components the steering damper will not help one bit, that's not what they do.

Well not to be an ass, but the stabilizer will solve a head shake problem durring cornering and help it feel more stable, as HRCA said it will not help the bike track better. i was needing it for the head shake issure due to our long on/off ramps around here are a little bumpy and can get hairy at 100+

If you feel like your bike is pulling left or right when you let go of the bars, try loosening the lower tripple clamps at the fork tubes, and bounce the front end a few times real hard, then re tighten the bolts, then loosen the top, give it a few good bounces and retighten, repeat that 2 or 3 times and that should help with the pulling, some times when people work with them a fork can get tweeked in the tripples just a little bit and that will help reset them, also check to make sure the rear wheel is straight and someone didnt put it together cocked with the adjusters.

If the forks are too hard, they may have been resprung for the P.O. and too stiff for a rider of your size. hawks are known for week front ends.


For a more stable long ride tire, you can try the 190, it may give you a more stable feel but, it wont be much.

wow sailor.. i think you just helped me solve my problem.. i couldn't explain it but it feels like it is off somehow and pulls or move while i ride.. i've had wheel checked 2 times and rotors are straight and everything.. im going to try this fork method, i had gold valve kit, and rachtech .90 springs put in.. even tho i only weigh 165.. so it feels very bumpy... and vegas roads are a mess alot of the times, so I am getting the damper to straight out the shitty roads, especially where I live roads are always being worked on.. and thanks for tire info i'd like wider tires to feel more secure while riding, not looking to do turns or any track or anything... i'd like to go as wide as possible to feel the bike more on ground, not on top of it.. i also have jamie building me a shock, so between doing the fork suggestion you just said, the damper, and the new rear shock.. i am hoping to have a stable, feel safe bike... thanks for all the help!!!
-shane

how do i check if the rear wheel is straight? a shop just replaced the rear bearing becuz it was wobbling really bad..

If you weigh 165 then the .90 springs are way too stiff, you probably shouldn't be over .80 maybe .85 at the outside. The stiff springs do not help you on bad roads, just the opposite. You want the forks to be compliant and absorb the bumps and imperfections, not be set up for a race track.

As for the rear wheel just put it on a rear stand and spin the tire/wheel and look at it. If it's bent you will see it. Look at it from the side, it will either look round while spinning or you may see a flat spot, check both sides.

Next look at the wheel from 45 degrees for radial run out, which simply means side to side, you're looking to see if it rotates in the same plane or "wiggles" in and out for a lack of better words.

As for the front forks that's been addressed, it's not how I do it but close enough for you at this point.