Steering Stem Bearing Torque
Hey Guys,
I am in the midst of putting the front end of my bike back together after a fork rebuild & I have replaced the steering head bearings while I had it apart. What have you guys come up with as far as an effective way of torqueing the steering stem bearings down with out having the special tool from Honda? Thanks |
The right size socket, grinder and some patience and you can quite easily make one yourself... Or if you have welding equipment it's usually easier to cut up two sockets to get the needed depth too clear the steering stem... There are a few threads around with images by me and others, a quick search will find them if you need to visualize it...
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Did you replace the steering head bearings with OEM caged ball bearings or with aftermarket roller bearings? The proper torque is not the same for both.
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allballs tapered bearings......I didn't even think of that.
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1 and 9/16 works if they don't have the deep socket in mm. angle grinder and dremmel tool and wear jeans you don't mind getting burn holes in :-)
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A 12 point 1 11/16" socket works perfectly.
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Originally Posted by Syclone
(Post 291311)
A 12 point 1 11/16" socket works perfectly.
Little tip though: If you don't by chance already own a 3/4" driver, don't buy the 3/4" to 1/2" adapter for $8 at Northern Tool when you can get the same adapter plus two extras at Harbor Freight for $4. |
A 42mm 12-point socket worked also. Bought it at Harbor Freight as part of their jumbo metric socket set. Had a lot of other useful sizes for the superhawk also. And with cheapo harbor freight adaptors, it was compatible with the 3/8" torque wrench I had.
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Be prepared to re-adjust that sucker in a few months of riding! Keep tabs on the feel. Jack her up :eek: and try to wiggle up and down @ full lock or try to push/pull on the front wheel when its off the ground. The last thing you want is to wear new bearings.
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I tightened the adjustment nut until the steering stem moved with some resistance and then I moved it back and forth until it loosened. I did that several times. I tightened the adjustment nut to about 100 in-lb. That's slightly more than specified in the Honda Common Service manual (8 ft-lb.) for tapered roller bearings but less than that specified in the VTR shop manual (18 ft-lb.) for caged ball bearings. There is a wide range of opinions on the Internet about the proper installation torque. This approach worked for me. YMMV
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