Stands for doing a head bearing change
 

Hi,

I am planning on doing a head bearing change on my '04 Hawk, and was wondering what stands people recommend?

I was looking at the Pit Bull Jack Stands:

http://www.pit-bull.com/Merchant2/me...Code=F0062-000

The only problem is that I don't currently have sliders fitted however I am looking at fitting some and may do so if these stands are the best option.

I just used my Harbor-Freight style motorcycle/atv lift.

+1. I use the Craftsman MC jack - the red one with the foot controls with a 2x6 piece of wood under the engine. For front end work I add a rear axle stand. For rear end work I add a fork stand, which adds stability. Works great.

The Park bearing race remover makes quick work of removing the races. Freeze the new races, heat up the head when installing.

http://www.bikebandit.com/assets/pro...erRemoveMD.gif


JB

+1 on the HF/Craftsman jacks.
I've just picked up the yellow aluminum Craftsman PRO MC/ATV lift on sale at Sears (works better for Dirt bikes than the red black one)...http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...+jack&sLevel=0

But like residentg I have to put some wood under the engine so the right header doesn't get smashed.

Cheap as chips!

http://homepage.mac.com/spaderunner/...and-deluxe.jpg

residentg:
I have Park tool in my bike bandit cart already, thanks for the freezing tip had not even thought of that as an option. Also do you use a press tool or a piece of wood and a hammer :)


I am looking at the sears prices for the red and black craftsman lift and it seems reasonable at $99. How do people find the stability of the bike on when its on these stands?

Wicky:

Not really an option or I would be taking that route myself, I will be working on the bike in my space in a multi story parking lot. I know not the best of places but its the only place I have living in the city...

if you have room get one of these. insanely they go on sale for around 99 dollars often. then fold up pretty compact and mine has lasted a long time. very useful when you need the front, rear or entire thing unweighted.

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...5491_200305491

I use a "dead blow" hammer and an upside-down socket - the races go right in. Freeze the bearing, use a little oil, carefully heat up the streering head / stem with a torch. Cut a slice out of the old races (so you can get them back off), and use them to drive in the new races with the socket. Error on the tight side when installing, ride it a couple of miles. and recheck it.

http://s.sears.com/is/image/Sears/00...0&op_sharpen=1

As for stability, I do not use the jack alone, I use a front or rear stand with it. I like the red one because it has foot controls and I have my hands to hold the bike while lifting.


http://www.bikebandit.com/assets/pro...tandsMaxMD.gif

I picked up the standard craftsman lift on the way home from work it wad the cheepest option over all and I have a pit bull rear stand that I will be using with it.

All the post winter service parts have been ordered and a few little extras so I think I will be busy all weekend working on her with this lot to do:

* K&N Air filter
* Oil filter and oil change
* Jet kit
* Head bearings
* Break pads all round
* Coolant change
* Break fluid change

And a good cleaning in the process.

for the rear stand, I bought a steel rod to go through the hollow axle (5/16" OD, IIRC), I also bought a sleeve with 5/16" ID to slip over the rod to accomodate the larger axle opening on the sprocket side. I have the rod stick out about 4" on either side of the axle, and I use that to lift the rear end up with the stand.

Use a digital camera along to way so you have something to refer back to when you forget how a cable was routed...

I used a rear stand and a ratchet strap from the rafter to the frame.

You by no means need sliders or spools for the pit bull stand. It goes under the swingarm in the rear (with no interference) and the front either can be placed into the frame tube at the triple or the fork ends can be placed right onto the tabs.