Replaced CCT 's chain tension?
 

Worried how tight chain is supposed to be after APE CCT installation? 1/4" to 3/8" of slack in the chain seems vague to me. Slack I get by poking with a screwdriver? Pressing with finger? Using Jedi Mind Tricks? The chain guide rail linking the sprockets semi prevents measurement by pressing chain up. Want to make sure I'm not over tightening. I made the mistake of not checking stock before starting. Finger tight to me seems stiff but I don't really know. Could a torque rating on the Adjuster bolt be listed instead of using visual inspection? Cant imagine a torque wrench being any more inaccurate then my fingers.

I just followed the guidelines here.. Finger tight plus 1/4 turn.

Really it isn't all that critical, it just needs to be tight enough to prevent the chain from jumping off the cam teeth, and loose enough to not cause excess friction.

The only reason it is such a big deal to replace with APEs is that when the auto OEM ones fail, they fail in such a way that they totally retract and this allows the chain to be so loose that it jumps off the cam teeth.

CCTs-How to change OEM to Manual Ape CCTs (https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum.../multipage.gif 1 2 3 ... Last Page)

As you can see I asked the same question there. Sorry if Im being impatient but I got into the middle of the project and had unexcpected questions. If you're suggesting I read the thread I already have top to bottom several times. I didnt feel this question was answered so here I am.

When at the correct position TDC and installing the CCT... Do it finger tight... IE no tools, as hard as you can turn the bolt with your fingers (before it hurts like hell) Lock it and do the other the same...

Now at this point they should be a either about right or possibly a bit loose, depending on your fingerstrenght... Start the engine and it should rattle a bit... Once warmed up it should quiet down... If not adjust in very, very small increments until it's as quiet as possible when the engine is warm... Do this with a tool obviously, but one finger on it at the most, no big movements and no real pressure...

Yeah, it's imprecise, low tech, and all that... But it works... There is no better answear...

Excellent. You answered my question. If the motor dictates the tension while running then certainly makes things easier. Hopefully front CCT is correct the first try

One thing to note... The first time you set the tension... It only works in TDC as there are no pull on the chain, and when one cylinder is att TDC the other cylinder is not, so don't try to adjust them at the same time, or compare them... They will not feel similar until the bike is running...

I measured 3 to 4 mm. of total vertical movement in the cam chain half way between the cam sprockets with the piston at TDC and the stock CCT's. With the APE's, I adjusted the tensioner so that there was 5 mm. of total vertical movement. The amount of slack hadn't changed when I checked it after about 24,000 km. YMMV