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-   -   removing the airbox for access to the carbs? (https://www.superhawkforum.com/forums/technical-discussion-28/removing-airbox-access-carbs-8093/)

senecagreen 02-04-2006 04:39 PM

removing the airbox for access to the carbs?
 
How hard is it to remove the stock airbox to access the carbs? I had my idle mixture checked and the mixture is less than 1% when it should be around 2%. I got a tool from a friend to adjust the mixture screws (it's got the D shaped end to fit over the mixture screws) but it is impossible to get my hand in there to use it.

I am thinking if I removed the airbox I could reach from the top and turn the screws out 1/4 turn, then of course I would have to put it all back together to check the idle.

How do you all access the mixture screws? Removing the airbox is the only was I can think of. Thanks for any help.

RCVTR 02-04-2006 05:52 PM

Using the Dynojet tool will require taking the carbs off. Not hard, but you have to discinnect the throttle cables, idle enrichment (choke) cables etc.

The tool for tuning idle on the bike is a 90 degree job with the D fitting on the end. Somebody here posted instructions for making a cool hombrew version. Dialling in the carb mixture is best done on the bike with it running. You might want to spend a few bucks having it done at the shop, especially if you are new to it.

jschmidt 02-04-2006 07:45 PM

The screw is on the bottom. The proper tool costs 180 bucks.

BeerHunter 02-05-2006 09:02 AM

Re: removing the airbox for access to the carbs?
 
Motion Pro sells a 90 deg driver with 5 attachment tips that will get the job done. Cost me $100 from the honda dealer.
The engine will never really come to life unless these screws are adjusted properly with the engine RUNNING

cb21983 02-08-2006 02:43 PM

Re: removing the airbox for access to the carbs?
 
I bought one of the carb mixture tools and had no luck with it. I ended up removing the carbs and cutting a standard screw driver notch into the mixture screw. I adjusted my mixture 2.5 turns out and put a .020 shim in to increase the main jet setting on both carbs, since then I have had no problems with the tune of the bike. While I had everything out I also adjusted the TPS and did the vent tube fix and PAIR removal. Another thing I should have done is run my vaccume lines so I could sync the carbs because it was a real pain to route the new lines and make them permenant with everyhing on the bike again. Other than remebering how to put everything back together and getting the lock rings on the vent tubes that connect to the bottom of the air box it was easy.

RonVTR 02-08-2006 06:23 PM

Instead of this...
"and put a .020 shim in to increase the main jet setting on both carbs"

Didn't you mean to say this... :-)
and put a .020 shim in to raise the needle jet setting on both carbs

Take Care

senecagreen 02-08-2006 06:54 PM

I will probably buy the honda tool. I'll will let everyone know what it cost.

superbling 02-08-2006 09:17 PM

Nobody answered the original question.

No, it's not difficult to remove the airbox. About 10 or so screws for the lid, remove the filter, and 8 more screws hold the "velocity stacks" above the carbs. Stick a couple of clean rags in the throats of the carbs just in case before removing those screws! A powered screw driver is HIGHLY suggested for all those damn screws and will greatly speed up things. There are a few hoses attached underneath the airbox for the emissions system to remove; make a mental note or take a picture of them.

The carbs are attached to rubber intakes and might be fused to them so a good yank (keep it clean fella's) might be needed. There's enough clearance with the coolant lines and throttle cables to rotate the carbs enough to get at the mixture screws. I would dremel a slot in them and forget about high dollar special tools.

superhawk22 02-08-2006 09:23 PM


Originally Posted by superbling";p=&quot (Post 16492)
so a good yank might be needed.

And then pull off the tubes, sorry had to. :lol:

senecagreen 02-09-2006 06:31 AM

I am going to take a look at the motion pro tool the local shop has and try to adapt my dynojet tool in the machine shop at work to fit the end of the motion pro tool.

That for me will be the cheapest way (free). A few minutes labor in the shop at work and I will give them the bit for adjusting my carbs. They are the only shop around with a exhasut gas analyzer which is the most accurate way to do it.

I could buy my own motion pro tool but I would be setting them by ear so why bother when they have the analyzer and I have known them for a while now. When you find a really good motorcycle mechanic I think you need to help them stay in business. It's a small shop and the guy is a real motorcycle enthusiast.


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