Rear cct pic
 

Hey all I put in kreiger ccts a bit back and was hoping someone could take a picture of how far in theirs is. Directions say hand tight...but my rear is nearly all the way in. Aka nearly no threaded bolt left

Hopefully someone has a similar setup

Ps the bike runs fine im just curious

Best thing to do IMO is hand tighten then tighten till excessive noise goes away - after full warm up. Pictures will be very hard to determine exactly where yours should be and highly inaccurrate and not specific to your bike.

All the way in sounds waaaay to far. Methinks something else is going on here. I don't think there's enough slack in the chain that it could be tightened close to all the way with tools. Unless by "hand tight" you mean your hand plus and 18" wrench and socket!

I would be skeptical of taking it back out based on a picture of someone else's bike, not only b/c it will be slightly different on all bikes due to tolerances and wear, but b/c you tightened it all the way.

Personally, I'd pull the valve cover and see whats going on in there.

Wait, if you've been running it like this, that changes my story a bit... maybe the kreiger ones are short back there?

yeah mines the same way. only three or four threads showing for the rear.
been running it like that for awhile now.

great thats what i needed to hear, and yes the kreigers are shorter stalk on the rear cct replacement and i was just kind of worried that i was going to run out, the bike sounds fine but it just looked a bit funky to me, i guess i was just used to the stock ones sticking out so far :p

Just put on my MCCTs in June. Worried also when I got to about 5 threads showing. The one for the rear is shortened on Kriegers as you mentioned. Been about 500 miles and she seems to be running just fine. You may want to do the warm engine adjustment that is mentioned in several threads to fine tune it. Did mine with the covers off, It seemed to be more tension that the stock CCTs. But I got about 67k miles on mine. No problems with the autos, just wanted peace of mind.:)

The pictures I used are from one of the first kits, the back bolt was a 110 mm bolt. I went to a 90 mm bolt (a bit less than 1" shorter) for appearances. It should go in with maybe about an inch or less sticking out.

Key point is not how far it threads in though. It is that you get the play out of the cam drive without overtightening it. Various bikes might be a bit similar, but not all are. There is the tolerance range in all of the parts made that stack up making for each engine to be a bit different.

So as long as it is quiet and you have a bit of range left (for any future minor adjustments) you are good to go. I have yet to talk to anyone who has adjusted a cam drive as much as one full turn after the initial installation. The wear will be so small as to be less than a fraction of a turn of the bolt. With 5 threads showing that means there is about .250" adjustment left, one full turn of the thread is about .050" and in over 30,000 miles I've not done that much adjustment on my 650 single starting with new cam chains (it uses two, using the intermediate sprockets to make the cam sprockets half the diameter to make the engine shorter). So 5 threads is good... and looks better.

I also recommend you do the cold set adjustment with the cam covers on if the slider in the cover contacts the chain. You do not want any excess tightness in the cam drive. If that slider presses down on the cam chain at all, it will tighten whatever setting you have.

Oh, just remembered... I actually thread the acorn and jam nut on a fair amount, so if it was ever necessary, you can break the jam nut loose, back them off a few turns and have more adjustment - but based on experience so far, you won't need it. I'm thinking you can pick up an easy 1/4" (6mm) more adjustment.