R1 rectifier
 

What year R1 rectifier works with the SH?

:search:

Started a search, found some posts but it did not tell me the year, just said that they replaced it with the r1 r/r and i was only in the search for 5 min, then i had to go, so i couln't read the other posts. Then i just decided to leave a thread asking the question. I now found it but i thought that while i was gone that one of you would answer the question but i did not know it would be a problem.

Don't remember the years of the top of my head, but the older generation, without FI works... Newer works too but is a lot more hassle... so basicly they ALL work...:)

1999 to 2001. yammi part # 4jh-81960-01-00


tim

I've got a 98 Hawk and I've got the classic speedo, tach, and light problems of the rectifier going bad, but I've also had these symptoms on my car and there was a short inside the battery. My meter says the alternator is working and the battery holds a steady charge. If my bike is running in my shop these problems don't happen. I'm guessing the road vibrations are causing a loose connection to go crazy somewhere or the rectifier is going bad. My question to everyone is pretty stupid. I can't get the rectifier unplugged to test resistance in the wiring. I'm pushing the little tab in but can't get it apart and I don't want to just yank on it cause I'm afraid I'll screw something up. What do I do?

Sorry to whore in on you thread bdizzle, but I didn't want to start another R/R thread.

No sweat dirtfreak, i got my question answered. Oh by the way thanks for the infromation tweety and trinc. As far as your plug problem, the plug could be melted to the rectifier a little bit and you may need to wiggle the conection a little bit.

Thanks b, I guess I'll just pull the hell out of it and see what happens. If I pull one of the wires out,mess one up, or if there is a coroded <--(spelling?) wire, can I just cut it, re-attach the terminal and put it back into the plug if it's not melted to the point of getting another one?

Will this one work? I think mine is going out too :confused:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/RICKS...spagenameZWD1V

he said picture is an example, NOT the product your buying. the listing is for the older R1 ( carb version ) ... it's the one you need !

tim

I was going by the message earlier in this thread that says '99-01 R1... I am not sure what you are saying. The picture may not be right, but is the part right?

I bought a new one straight from Rick's last year. Excellent quality, very nice to deal with too. If you call them they have one specific for the Hawk.
http://www.ricksmotorsportelectrics....fierregulators

So what is the benefit of using the R1 regulator(rectifier), is it more dependable or is it cheaper. If Ricks offer replacements for the yammi's and the sHawk's, is it still better to get the model for the yammi.

I think that if you try to pull the conecter out, and one or more wires come out, that you should replace it with the r1 r/r. Unless you bought the stock r/r then it's your call on what you want to do.

Well the stock one has no cooling fins on it, and the r1 r/r does, so all in all yeah its better.

The R/R I have already has fins on it, so somebody has already replaced the stocker. If this R/R is going bad to should I be looking for another problem due to the fact that my bike has gone through two R/R's in 23K miles?:confused: (EDIT) Ok got it off and the wires and plug are burnt up and blackened. So once again, now do I just get a new R/R and the plug, cut the wires put on new terminals and hook everything back up? (EDIT) Just looked at the link from Involute, thanks for the info man!

Well i think if the plug is blackened, that you sould cut the wires, and replace the r/r with the yamaha r/r, because you have to cut the wires to put the r1 r/r on. Now the other thing that comes to mind that if the plug was burnt on the first relacment, that it would have a bad connection and could of fried it the second time even faster.

No problem Bro. I was just blowing my own horn. Thats my XX in those pictures. It looks the like XX R/R swap was just practice for the SH.

Involute, I just found and bought the R1 rectifier. If I solder the terminals to the wires won't resistance be created? Wouldn't a crimp be better off? I know it specifies on you're page to solder but I just wanted to ask what makes soldering better? (no idea if solder is even spelled right, sorry)

You get more resistance with a crimp than you do with soldering the wires together.

Thats all over my head Bro. I had a guy that I assume knows more than me about that crap tell me to solder it so I did;)

I know I did feel better about the more secure connection.

Soldering the wires is more resistance free connection than the connector plugs, pins, sockets, etc.

Thanks Guys.

Ok, hopefully this will be my last question on this subject. I got my new R/R today but there is an extra wire in it that I wasn't counting on. It may be because this is not a stocker Yamaha plug and will fit other models but I don't know what to do with it. It came with two new plugs, one going into the R/R and it is wired to another that is suppose to be plugged into the stock Yamaha plug. It has the three wires for the stator, the Hawks are white the new R/R's are yellow, no problem. The R/R also has one white and one black, I figure the white goes to the Hawks red and the blacks go together. But the new R/R also has a brown wire going from plug to plug that the Hawk can't hook into. Now the Hawk has a green wire that had a teminal that one of the attach bolts went through and I assume grounded to the frame because it was sandwiched between the old R/R and the frame, the new R/R is not smooth and unpainted on the back like the stocker was, does the brown wire on the new R/R splice into the green ground from the Hawk, need to be removed, or something else?