R/R, stator, ground connection help
 

My saga with my bike continues. I bought it with a salvaged title (stolen recovery) a couple months ago. Replaced the frame which wasn't difficult. Now instead of being an 2002 it's a 1998. The frame I purchased had the inner track for the steering stem roller bearings installed which threw me off at first. I've ridden 30 or 40 miles here and there since reassembly. The bike already had the pair valve removed, manual cct installed, MIG exhaust, Coerce fork brace, steering stabilizer, and other mods. It seemed to idle better with the K&N air filter but might have been all in my mind. My current dilemma before riding season the battery had a low charging voltage due to the RR. 12.7v at idle, 12.3v at higher rpms. I ordered a used FH001 from an '03 R1. The RR I removed from the bike came from a 1995 GS500 to my surprise and was only putting out 11.3 volts at idle. I have the mosfet RR installed, cleaned the corrosion off the connectors. The battery voltage has improved drastically but still isn't where it should be. At idle it's 13.84 and as the rpm's increase it stays roughly the same. I retested the stator resistance and get .8 ohms on all wires which is higher than the manual suggest it should be. The idle AC voltage at the stator underseat connector is 30v (is that normal?) and jumps to 70-80 at higher rpms. I get no short to ground on any of the wires. After looking at the pics on the forum of others who've done this mod and the pics in the manual I've noticed I'm completely missing the ground wire from the wiring loom at the RR. Could that be throwing off my reading or is the stator on it's last legs as well? I'll have to wait until the snow melts and it warms up a bit to see if I can trace this connection. I'm hoping the wiring for the ground is still there somewhere in the wiring loom.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-B.../DSC055732.jpg If this helps clarify some of my ramblings this picture points to the ground connection I'm missing.

I replaced my R/R with a MOSFET unit a few months ago. My bike does not have that chassis ground you pointed out in your picture either....no idea what that wire is (or where it goes). Seriously doubt that's your problem.

Ground is the green wire on the two pin connector on the R/R (black connector).

If I had to guess I would blame the stock wire's. The stock harness is crap and the wires degrade over time. I used heaver gauge wire and went right to the battery. Bypassed the stock + and ground wires. Just taped the stock wires so they wouldn't short and l tied them out of the way. Have a perfect 14.3 V when running.

I'll check and see but pretty sure I have extra terminals for the Mosfet connectors. Can send you some if you want to bypass the stock harness.

You Should have that ground, somewhere. It has been covered in one of the many R/R threads. It was recommended to be securely attached at the R/R by those that are very knowledgeable that this ground is important. Not sure where the ground wire in the above photo was originally, though I'm assuming that it was under one stock R/R mounting bolts. My bike has that ground and it's attached the same as the above photo. After looking at the wiring diagram I don't see it, but that doesn't mean that it's not there. Those two ground wires come out of the loom that also includes the lead to the flasher relay and the hot lead that goes between the main fuse and the R/R.

Should have mentioned my bike is 2001(maybe different wiring then older models?) ...also if you decide to bypass the stock harness and connect the R/R directly to battery you will need to put a in-line fuse on the + side.

Thanks for the replies and suggestions...I was thinking the same thing MikeNap that the newer Superhawks might have this ground to frame elsewhere. When installing the frame I only found one and it was on the other side of the bike. Reading threw the threads someone suggested an inline fuse, another person said it would be a weak point for moisture and corrosion. I'll err on the side of caution and use an inline fuse and marine grade wires. Hopefully this will boost the charging to 14+ volts.

The inline fuse I used was part of a R/R kit
Home
its weather proof...so no worries about corrosion. I'm sure you can find something similar at any auto parts store.

Check the alternator as burnt out windings on the stator can lead to below optimum charging. Some will appear sooty black and frazzled rather than nice and clean and coppery coloured.