Over heating 98 VTR1000
05-27-2014, 10:04 PM
#1
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Over heating 98 VTR1000
I have look constantly online to see what i could find but i cant find much on the subject. on a 98 VTRor any VTR with the ANALOG guages when does your fan turn on? mine doesnt turn on until i hit the red line on the bike. then it travels back down to 3/4 and turns off and repeat. is this common? i was reading alot about the 85 or 90*c plugs and saw a lot of good stuff. im in upstate NY so it doesnt got hot much here. 70-85 is about the normal for summer. i do city driving here and there as i work in the city so suggestions fellow VTR owners?!!
05-28-2014, 06:49 AM
#3
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First off, just to ease your mind, hitting the red won't cause damage, it just is higher than optimal for the bike. If the fan is delayed in switching on, the first thing I would do is just give a really good coolant flush (maybe even run a couple of gallon of distilled water through) and then make sure you work out all of the bubbles in the system.
If there are bubble then the coolant won't flow very well and the hot stuff stays in the motor and cool stuff in the rads, causing the fans to think the system is cooler than it is. This can also happen if the thermostat is acting up, although they are generally designed to fail in the open position. One way to test this is to wait until the bike is cool, then take the radiator cap off and turn the bike on. Once it reaches temp (takes up to 10 min), you should see the coolant in the radiator start to flow. If it's not, you have some bubbles to work out or a thermostat to check. Leave the cap off and running and start tapping on the hoses with a blunt object and blipping the throttle to try to work the stuck bubbles loose if this is the case.
If it is flowing, then then next thing I would check/replace is the radiator cap. It is much more prone to cause problems than a fan or temperature switch.
If there are bubble then the coolant won't flow very well and the hot stuff stays in the motor and cool stuff in the rads, causing the fans to think the system is cooler than it is. This can also happen if the thermostat is acting up, although they are generally designed to fail in the open position. One way to test this is to wait until the bike is cool, then take the radiator cap off and turn the bike on. Once it reaches temp (takes up to 10 min), you should see the coolant in the radiator start to flow. If it's not, you have some bubbles to work out or a thermostat to check. Leave the cap off and running and start tapping on the hoses with a blunt object and blipping the throttle to try to work the stuck bubbles loose if this is the case.
If it is flowing, then then next thing I would check/replace is the radiator cap. It is much more prone to cause problems than a fan or temperature switch.
05-28-2014, 07:42 AM
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First off, just to ease your mind, hitting the red won't cause damage, it just is higher than optimal for the bike. If the fan is delayed in switching on, the first thing I would do is just give a really good coolant flush (maybe even run a couple of gallon of distilled water through) and then make sure you work out all of the bubbles in the system.
After 10 minutes of idling, it wouldn't even go up to the halfway point on the gauge. YMMV.
05-28-2014, 10:40 AM
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Also, realize that this bike is ancient (relatively speaking), with probably varying amounts of maintenance being done on them over the years. I wouldn't necessarily trust that gauge. I know I don't believe what mine says. Mine rarely reaches the mid-point unless I am sitting in traffic. It is, after all, just a thermal resistor that is feeding a signal to the gauge, and either the gauge could be off, or the sender, due to many factors, including build-up of scale on the sender itself. Follow the coolant burping procedure in the manual (and roughly detailed by 7moore7), and you'll know that you've worked the air out.
The be-all end-all way of knowing that the system is working properly is to let it get to temp at idle and measuring the temp at various points in the cooling system with an accurate infrared thermometer and seeing when the fans cycle. This bike tends to cycle fans at a pretty high temp (200+ if I remember correctly) and some people choose to replace the fan cycling switch (located in the right side radiator) with one that cycles at a lower temp, or simply have a manual switch for the fan that they can turn on.
The be-all end-all way of knowing that the system is working properly is to let it get to temp at idle and measuring the temp at various points in the cooling system with an accurate infrared thermometer and seeing when the fans cycle. This bike tends to cycle fans at a pretty high temp (200+ if I remember correctly) and some people choose to replace the fan cycling switch (located in the right side radiator) with one that cycles at a lower temp, or simply have a manual switch for the fan that they can turn on.
05-29-2014, 10:16 PM
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cool thanks for the info guys. i shouldve probably stated i just got the motor swapped and the rad cap went bad. got that switched and the system was bled before i picked it up as stated it only happens when i stop at like consecutive 3 or 4 red lights in a row. after i get crusing its fine. ill try and rebleed the system and take the advised of the overflow and let it leak out. not a bad idea and ill see if i can tap some lines and get the air out. hopefully i can get this to stop! doing a new chain this weekend so when i have her there im gonna check the thermostat and some other good stuff thanks for the info guys
05-30-2014, 07:05 AM
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Trapped air in the system can collect around the sensor.. ,, if the sensor is not submerged in coolant, it will not read correct temp, and control the function it is connected to gauge or fan in the case of the SH.. so as others have stated, flush, bleed the cooling system.
You can remove the temp sensor and use a ohm meter and a pan of water on the stove to test the switch.
you can install a different temp range sensor so it closes sooner (lower temp) and causes the fan to come on sooner ( this is a good thing I think)
You can install a manual switch, turning on the fan any time you're in city traffic.
BUT.. do the easy stuff first.
Test the fan... does it run at full speed when powered with a jumper?
Is it dragging on a bent mount, cage?
Test the cap, make sure it's good (new does not equal known good.. new parts come faulty from the manufacture sometimes)
Pressure test the cooling system
Verify coolant flow when the motor is running.
Flush cooling system, replace with known mix of distilled water and coolant or use a pre mix version.
Bleed air from system.
You can remove the temp sensor and use a ohm meter and a pan of water on the stove to test the switch.
you can install a different temp range sensor so it closes sooner (lower temp) and causes the fan to come on sooner ( this is a good thing I think)
You can install a manual switch, turning on the fan any time you're in city traffic.
BUT.. do the easy stuff first.
Test the fan... does it run at full speed when powered with a jumper?
Is it dragging on a bent mount, cage?
Test the cap, make sure it's good (new does not equal known good.. new parts come faulty from the manufacture sometimes)
Pressure test the cooling system
Verify coolant flow when the motor is running.
Flush cooling system, replace with known mix of distilled water and coolant or use a pre mix version.
Bleed air from system.
05-30-2014, 02:44 PM
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New cap it was claimed to be bled when I got the cap switched but the top hose running between the radiators isnt that hot. Should be hot to the touch fan runs fine when it runs no draghimg sloeimg just turns on super late. Im gonna rebleed the system also I filled the coolant tank to the top and the oveeflow isnt really leaking out like it should.
05-30-2014, 10:29 PM
#10
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If you are doing all that, you should do a radiator flush like prestone or whatever brand.
All advise given so far is good but do the flush as it can only help. Be sure to refill with the 50/50 antifreeze & distilled water. I have seen guys put straight antifreeze but that wont cool the motor sufficiently.
If it persists you can swap to a cooler fan switch (easy job). Stocker is a 100*(C) one so a lower temp one would help.
Oh, and by Cuse do you mean Syra?
All advise given so far is good but do the flush as it can only help. Be sure to refill with the 50/50 antifreeze & distilled water. I have seen guys put straight antifreeze but that wont cool the motor sufficiently.
If it persists you can swap to a cooler fan switch (easy job). Stocker is a 100*(C) one so a lower temp one would help.
Oh, and by Cuse do you mean Syra?
05-31-2014, 05:41 PM
#12
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overheating
Anybody know at what temp Honda says the fan should turn on? I have an 05' with a digital temp guage. I've checked the owners manual and the service manual an neither says when. I've only had this Hawk a few weeks. It was hot today and in the city I was seeing 210' while sitting. Maybe the fan went on, but temp didn't go down til I began moving. 22k and runs strong, coolant full.
06-01-2014, 01:51 PM
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And yes smoking joe syracuse, ny live off brighton ave if you near me. And ok friends so I popp3d my rad cap off it is pressurizing but there was like no coolant in it when I popped the cap off. I know in cars you should be filling where the cap is to the top let it run then put cap back om bikes the same? And jswisc is suppose to be about 200-220 ij that range
06-01-2014, 02:12 PM
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Well guys got some good neww qnd some bad news. The fan is turning on between half and 3/4 problem is it runs for 45-60seconds then shuts off and doesnt turn back on unless I turn ignition off and back on
06-01-2014, 03:19 PM
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Check to make sure fan is grounded properly. If I remember correctly the ground may be tied in at a radiator mount where a rubber bushing is used, preventing steady conduction
06-01-2014, 03:24 PM
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should i remove that ruubber piece? i just had it ripped apart and took it for a ride. so im gonna let her cool down and eat some dinner quick. i didnt even realize how easy it is to take the whole front end off the bike.
06-02-2014, 12:51 PM
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Alright so im abput 95% positive its a bad ground. I dont understamd why they would bolt a ground to the plastic fan. I mean I have a metal piece in between the plastic the ground and the bolt. So the ground kinda acts like a 2nd washer. So not sure how to proceed
06-02-2014, 06:33 PM
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Did you get the fan to turn on by grounding it? Like if you use a jumper wire and ground the wire that goes to the fan switch (back of right rad) the fan should come on (key on only)
Oh and no talk of neutral, this is only an overheating thread, you are confused enuff without more topics.
Oh and no talk of neutral, this is only an overheating thread, you are confused enuff without more topics.
06-02-2014, 11:03 PM
#22
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hi..
First off, just to dispell this myth, reaching the red won't cause harm, it just is greater than maximum for the bicycle. If the fan is late in changing on, the vital factor I would do is just provide a really excellent coolant cleanse (maybe even run a number of quart of drinking h2o through) and then create sure you perform out all of the pockets in the program.
If there are percolate then the coolant won't circulation very well and the hot things remains in the engine and awesome things in the rads, resulting in the lovers to think the program is chilly than it is. This can also occur if the heat range is performing up, although they are usually developed to don't succeed in the start place. One way to analyze this is to delay until the bicycle is awesome, then take the rad cap off and convert the bicycle on. Once it gets to heat range (takes up to 10 min), you should see the coolant in the rad begin to circulation. If it's not, you have some pockets to perform out or a heat range to examine. Keep the cap off and operating and begin reaching on the lines with a dull item and blipping the accelerator to try to perform the trapped pockets reduce if this is the situation.
If it is streaming, then then next factor I would check/replace is the rad cap. It is much more vulnerable to cause issues than a fan or heat range change.
First off, just to dispell this myth, reaching the red won't cause harm, it just is greater than maximum for the bicycle. If the fan is late in changing on, the vital factor I would do is just provide a really excellent coolant cleanse (maybe even run a number of quart of drinking h2o through) and then create sure you perform out all of the pockets in the program.
If there are percolate then the coolant won't circulation very well and the hot things remains in the engine and awesome things in the rads, resulting in the lovers to think the program is chilly than it is. This can also occur if the heat range is performing up, although they are usually developed to don't succeed in the start place. One way to analyze this is to delay until the bicycle is awesome, then take the rad cap off and convert the bicycle on. Once it gets to heat range (takes up to 10 min), you should see the coolant in the rad begin to circulation. If it's not, you have some pockets to perform out or a heat range to examine. Keep the cap off and operating and begin reaching on the lines with a dull item and blipping the accelerator to try to perform the trapped pockets reduce if this is the situation.
If it is streaming, then then next factor I would check/replace is the rad cap. It is much more vulnerable to cause issues than a fan or heat range change.
06-03-2014, 08:16 AM
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Wait, I just got my answer.. thanks SmokinJoe!
Last edited by FTL900; 06-03-2014 at 08:19 AM.
06-03-2014, 02:10 PM
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it is not my rad cap i just got that switched and lines bled by the people who swapped my motor. man i love this bike but everyday there is a new problem. now its not starting and back firing 
06-10-2014, 10:25 PM
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Manual switch?
When you guys install a manual fan switch do you keep the OEM fan switch in line?
Just in case for some reason the manual switch does not get powered up at high engine heat the OEM fan switch can save the motor from over heating.
Or do you remove the OEM fan switch from the circuit making it inoperable?
SIRR1
Just in case for some reason the manual switch does not get powered up at high engine heat the OEM fan switch can save the motor from over heating.
Or do you remove the OEM fan switch from the circuit making it inoperable?
SIRR1
06-11-2014, 01:19 AM
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We keep the oem just in case we forget to keep an eye on the temp. I'm not naming names but someone with initials S.J. who lives in Queens, NY rides year round plus races, has more than one cool hawk, does his own needle work on leathers, currently working on wheelys and has purty feet may have had that happen.
06-11-2014, 08:19 AM
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Sounds like a real American Hero to me....this mystery fellow
Tap into the wire coming off the fan switch at rear of rt radiator. Then to your switch ( I use the interior panel right beneath rt clip on), then to a ground.
I recently wired a red light to come on my dash to show me when the fan is running. This is for peace of mind (ha) or to know you forgot to turn it off.
NEVER (ever) run just the manual switch. It can only lead to great unhappiness, I promise.
Tap into the wire coming off the fan switch at rear of rt radiator. Then to your switch ( I use the interior panel right beneath rt clip on), then to a ground.
I recently wired a red light to come on my dash to show me when the fan is running. This is for peace of mind (ha) or to know you forgot to turn it off.
NEVER (ever) run just the manual switch. It can only lead to great unhappiness, I promise.
