Oil drain plug bolt thingy
 

Well... you're all going to have a laugh now ;).

Can anybody point out the oil drain bolt to me? (an image would be superb!)
You know... the one which lets me drain the 3.9 litres of motor oil.

I owned a CBR600RR before my FireStorm (I'm Dutch) and that bolt almost bit you when you looked under the bike. With the Storm... I can't seem to find it.

Thanks for any indication ;)

Found it :D

It's on the left side of the bike (sticking to the left side, not towards the bottom), with a no.12 bolthead.

http://www.garuda-dax.nl/web_images/IMG_1409.jpg

Don't forget the copper washer...

I'm having a bear of a time getting my drain bolt out, it's the first time I've ever done an oil change so I didn't try too hard to muscle it. It's not some backwards bolt where turning it clockwise actually loosens it is? If anybody has some tips or tricks on how to get this thing moving I'd greatly appreciate it.

Steady pressure on the bolt head. It is standard theads, not reversed.

Use a 6 point socket, if you have it. Less chance of stripping the flats.

Righty tighty lefty loosey

I was gonna say the lefty loosey thing. You have to picture facing the bolt (not looking from top of bike).

Also agdroid, use a socket, not needle nose pliers. And you need a metric socket, which are different than sae or American.

To tell the difference, look right on the socket. A fraction (like 1/2) is standard/American. DONT use this kind.

A whole number (like 14 or 17) is MM or metric. THIS IS THE ONE YOU WANT.

Grab the driver by the handle (oh yeah, attach the socket right to the handle first)

If you dont have a handle or driver, but only the socket then THIS IS YOUR PROBLEM.

You just cant get much torque on a socket alone so stop trying, and gripping it with your needle nose wont do it either. GO BORROW A DRIVER.

There should be a 12 mm. box end wrench in the tool kit on the bike.

Assuming the tool kit is still with the bike.

I sprayed it with some PB Buster and was able to get it out. It took more than I expected to get it moving, it was nice being able to finally use my torque wrench to put it back in. I didn't have a six point socket, the ones that I have in that side have a bunch of little points ( I don't know what else to call them). Is it worth hunting down the 6 point ones?

Edit: Guess I should have refreshed before I hit post. It's been a crazy week!

I have a full-ish set of both SAE and Metric sockets and Allen Wrenches that are helpfully color coded. Sadly the bike didn't come with the tool kit, I haven't taken the time to search for one yet. I really should though. I use to ride an Sv650 and was stranded when a battery wire came lose, the seat is bolted on for whatever reason. I didn't have any tools on me and had to call a friend with a truck for the ride of shame home. The whole Righty Tighty Lefty Loosey thing can be misunderstood at times, I always preferred 'Clockwise Closes'

On a non-oil drain related but still turning stuff question: I need to replace my throttle tube and the screws holding it together wont budge and one is already partially stripped. I want to replace those screws with bolts but I need to get them out first. I was thinking about using the PB Buster again but with the plastics, controls, and cables all right there and my general lack of knowledge of what will or won't mess things up I'm hesitant. Am I being overly cautious or is there another avenue I haven't considered?

PB Blaster shouldn't hurt anything, but if you want to be extra cautious WD-40 never hurts. Also, they are not the standard Phillips but rather the Japanese version, not sure of the exact name but if you look around the forum you will find it.

PB blaster won't hurt.

Get some 6 point metric sockets. A 3/8" drive set during a fathers day sale at Sears should be pretty reasonable money wise.

I just got some JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard)screwdrivers. Try Amazon. Just one number 2 stubby would be a huge addition to any tool box. Also nice for working on any Japanese products such as R/C toys.

WD-40 is not a lubricant, stick with the blaster or another penetrating lubricant (kroil, or 50/50 ATF and acetone). And if a hex head is really stuck use a flank drive socket or wrench, 6 point sockets suffer largely from similar design flaws to 12 point sockets, they put all the force on the weakest parts.

Agdroid, I was just busting on you for the original question. The screws on this and all Japanese bikes are JIS.

Vessel Impacta 980 Series JIS P3 x 150 Impact Screwdriver | eBay

On my throttle housing I eventually had to dremmel the heads into slotted heads. (before I got my JIS drivers). Then use a huge flathead.

I'd drill the heads off the stripped screws and use a pair of pliers to get the threaded "stumps" out. Replace them with allen bolts and you won't have that issue ever again.

Drill the entie head off instead of just cutting slots in them to turn them out? With no heads you would need an ez out to remove the shafts. But may be impossible since they are corroded.

put a small strong magnet on the end of your oil filter and just keep swapping it from filter to filter. collects the metal shavings so you can just throw it away. much better than a magnetic oil drain plug.

Shizzaz, I agree, I use a can cooler so it needs a big hose clamp so I use the hose clamp to also hold on a strong magnet.