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-   -   not charging again (https://www.superhawkforum.com/forums/technical-discussion-28/not-charging-again-26218/)

wsharpman 07-25-2011 05:27 AM

not charging again
 
Well it has left me stranded and had to get a jump 2 times now. Pulled tail end off and had can see the r/r has been recently been replaced (has no numbers on it but is ribbed not smooth). Bought brand new battery. It starts right up after jump and runs great even starts on its own after i get it home. But is untrustworthy . I have examined all connections and see nothing of corrosion or damaged. At a loss here. Looks as though going to have to find someone with more technical knowhow to help me with this before i get to ride ( as i have no one around to come to my rescue as far as friends or family ). When this happens . Any ideas out there? I have read all info i could gleem but nothing exactly fits. As no other things go out ie lights/gauges etc. And she starts on her own and runs fine after jumping (oh also does go dead after sitting over night a couple times.)

nath981 07-25-2011 05:59 AM


Originally Posted by wsharpman (Post 309781)
Well it has left me stranded and had to get a jump 2 times now. Pulled tail end off and had can see the r/r has been recently been replaced (has no numbers on it but is ribbed not smooth). Bought brand new battery. It starts right up after jump and runs great even starts on its own after i get it home. But is untrustworthy . I have examined all connections and see nothing of corrosion or damaged. At a loss here. Looks as though going to have to find someone with more technical knowhow to help me with this before i get to ride ( as i have no one around to come to my rescue as far as friends or family ). When this happens . Any ideas out there? I have read all info i could gleem but nothing exactly fits. As no other things go out ie lights/gauges etc. And she starts on her own and runs fine after jumping (oh also does go dead after sitting over night a couple times.)

well when mine did this, I replaced the battery on the road and then it wouldn't start after sitting. Then replaced the R/R and still wouldn't start after sitting. Bought a new battery and fried the R/R when connecting the battery. Finally got a new R/R and it has been working for a couple years so far. fuckin nightmare!

zmaniv 07-25-2011 06:18 AM

Get a multi meter And start checking your components

Old Yeller 07-25-2011 09:45 AM

yep....volt meter is only about 10 bucks for a cheap one. Check battery before starting. should be at least 12.3. Then check after starting. should be at least 13.7 or 13.8. higher is ok up to about 14.2. after that, rev to about 4500 and check again for a solid 13.7 or higher.

wsharpman 07-25-2011 10:30 AM

Ok Will be getting new foltmeter tonight . And go throughout the wiring .

wsharpman 07-25-2011 01:53 PM

ok tested and while off the batt reads 12.3v, when running idle it reads 12.6v, when anything over idle it drops to 9.6v ... all teasting was done on battery posts so far. guessing here , sounds like stator from things i am reading . am i correct in this assumption?
shame as this bike only has about 10.3 k miles on it

Old Yeller 07-25-2011 01:57 PM

it gets more complicated to test the recitifer and stator. Most often, the culpret is either the battery or R/R. When it happens to me, I take the battery to an auto parts store and have them load test it to be sure it's ok. given your reading while off, it's probably ok, but might as well have it tested to confirm. After that, I replace the R/R. if that doesn't solve the problem, then the stator is the other possibility.

If anyone close to you has a spare R/R or could remove theirs long enough for you to test with, that would tell you if it's the R/R or not.

Tormoz 07-25-2011 02:03 PM


Originally Posted by Old Yeller (Post 309827)
it gets more complicated to test the recitifer and stator. Most often, the culpret is either the battery or R/R. When it happens to me, I take the battery to an auto parts store and have them load test it to be sure it's ok. given your reading while off, it's probably ok, but might as well have it tested to confirm. After that, I replace the R/R. if that doesn't solve the problem, then the stator is the other possibility.

If anyone close to you has a spare R/R or could remove theirs long enough for you to test with, that would tell you if it's the R/R or not.

This troubleshooting flowchart is kind of a pain to follow, but eventually it will help you identify your issue.

wsharpman 07-25-2011 02:09 PM

1 Attachment(s)
no one close by that I know of at least... Oh well guess I can figure on upgrading it to the mosfet next (looks as though in recent past the r/r was replaced with a different one) so that said this problem most likely existed before and was simply patched over before sale I bet. hate when ppl do that.

https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...1&d=1311627992

you can see the scratches on frame around top bolt.

wsharpman 07-25-2011 02:50 PM

ok as my understanding (I have no book) from prior posts, none of the connections or other wires should read anything when testing off the negative post and key off. however you see that (in above pic) the black cyclinder deal (don't know what it is guessing rear ignition coil) mounted forward of the R/R and dusty , well I am getting a reading of .47v on the black/yellow wire off it? I suppose this isn't right and may be where my short is thats draining my battery?
also on connecters from (yellow wires) r/r I get a reading of 0.26 as well as from connecter wires to generator wile key is off.

wsharpman 07-26-2011 02:22 PM

Ok i took off the r/r and the battery then went to local autoparts store. Had battery load tested it showed good. Tried to see if anyone (only 2 local bike shops here) could diagnose the r/r replaced , no such luck. So i took it home put it back on bike. Noticed the ground was behind it instead of in front (not allowing the r/r to rest flat on frame) so i set it in front and checked ground. Bike started right up. Took it for short ride to store to get gas shut it off gassed up and it started right back up. Lol now i am baffled . Still going to order a mosfet just to be safe.

gordthebiker 07-26-2011 05:20 PM

Probably a loose connection in the plug. Poke out the spade connectors and give them a squeeze to make it tighter against the r/r.

CrankenFine 07-26-2011 08:21 PM


Originally Posted by wsharpman (Post 309898)
Ok i took off the r/r and the battery then went to local autoparts store. Had battery load tested it showed good. Tried to see if anyone (only 2 local bike shops here) could diagnose the r/r replaced , no such luck. So i took it home put it back on bike. Noticed the ground was behind it instead of in front (not allowing the r/r to rest flat on frame) so i set it in front and checked ground. Bike started right up. Took it for short ride to store to get gas shut it off gassed up and it started right back up. Lol now i am baffled . Still going to order a mosfet just to be safe.

I have the same type R/R. I doubt grounding the R/R body had any effect on it's operation. Possibly the marginally increased contact with the metal frame of the bike gives some increased capacity to work as a heat sink, which is it's only purpose as far as I can tell. I say this because I used an ohm meter to check mine for any conductivity between any connector and the heat sink and found infinite resistance for any polarity.

Long story short the sudden success on 2 restarts has no connection to "grounding" the R/R IMHO. More likely a flaky connector was jostled enough to begin conducting better.

gordthebiker 07-27-2011 05:26 AM

BTW this is the connector and new terminals. Maybe take the old one off and solder the terminals after soldering the wire ends?

CNA250-TL

Old Yeller 07-27-2011 10:08 AM

check things again with the volt meter as above. Just because the battery worked for a short period doesn't mean it's getting charged properly. Better to double check and be safe. :)

wsharpman 07-27-2011 01:29 PM

will do guys, I am reading all propere voltages now off the wires and battery...But as I am leary of any distance as it is , I am going to look for a r1 new r/r just to be on the safe side (as soon as I can get ahead of the bills to afford it, as they are expensive apx $159.
will let ya all know when I get one and thanks for the help.

7moore7 07-27-2011 01:53 PM

07 08 YAMAHA R1 VOLTAGE REGULATOR RECTIFIER 2008 OEM | eBay

...or $100. MOFSET r/r's (as used in the R1/ R6/ etc) don't have nearly the tendency to wear out over time, so getting a new one isn't that important. A used one will be ten times better than a new OEM superhawk one, and is a pretty safe buy. Just another option to think about...

7moore7 07-27-2011 01:56 PM

or $40 if you don't mind cutting some aluminum fins:
04 05 R1 R-1 YZFR1 Voltage Regulator Rectifier | eBay

wsharpman 07-28-2011 03:35 PM


Originally Posted by 7moore7 (Post 309955)
or $40 if you don't mind cutting some aluminum fins:
04 05 R1 R-1 YZFR1 Voltage Regulator Rectifier | eBay

thanks just purchased this one, and like that this is from a sportbike parts seller place here in north Ga, so should get it quickly :) then just a matter of wiring it in once it gets here (happy):p

wsharpman 07-30-2011 12:43 PM

ok just got my mosfet fh011aa and trying to figure out on which of the posts is red wire supposed to go on? on the 2 prong side is it the left post or the right post. that is to say the outside post or inside post on the 2 prong


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