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Okay, this started as just a couple of lines but morphed into the book of life!!
If your not interested in reading, just skip to the bottom. Apologies.
Hi Guys, been a long time lurker and this forum was one of the primary reasons I recently ended up purchasing a VTR1000F.
I have a GSXR1100 '87 slab side, but had it mothballed since my kids were born. I took it out of storage and got my mechanic to give it a once over and let me know
what I'd need done to get it back on the road. Well, to cut a long story short, after I'd picked my jaw up off the ground it immediately went back into storage!!
Then a promotion/job change meant I was moving locations, and that meant NO PARKING.
So this took me on the path of looking at purchasing an alternative to the GIXXER. Honda, Suzuki and Yamaha were on my brands list, not a fan of Kwaka's (no particular reason, just don't like them).
Budget, Usual $$skint due to wife and multiple kids emptying my wallet/credit card every day.
Had a look at a couple of Yamaha FZ1s's, but they were over 90,000 klms and still a high price for my liking, so kept looking. Then I thought about the VTR, one of my work colleagues had previously had one.
Feedback from him was reliable, no issues, heaps of torque but a pita on distance trips due to the tank size. So off I went a hunting through forums looking for issues and problems.
Superhawk kept getting referred too in a lot of other forums posts, so I ended up here. Remember I was looking for issues/problems, and using the Search function literally overwhelmed me with threads to investigate.
All in all though, I found the ACCT swap for MCCT's in a lot of them and the dreaded PVLIR in others . Sort of gave me a slight sense of comfort.
Don't get me wrong, there were the occasional nightmare stories but you get those with any bike.
Anyway, managed to find one with a little bit of cosmetic damage (cheaper) and just out of rego (cheaper again). So I rang him up, and in a city of over 4 million people the guy lived 3 streets away from me!
Its been a nice experience, one to not only get back on a bike again but the VTR and that torque is just plain nice. Steering is something I'm not used to, the old GIXXER needed man handling around corners,
this thing just wants to fall into the corners. Bit unsettling at first, but I'm getting used to it.
So onto what I really want to ask, after all of that!
1. Its a Yellow 99 model, with 61,000 klm on it. What OTHER than MCCT's would you automatically look out for or do? Oil change, spark plugs and coolant flush all done.
2. The thing is lumpy, but its not clean lumpy under 4 thou, if you know what I mean. It idles fine, it runs good, better higher in the rev range. Is this normal or a carb balance is in order?
Could be to do with the pipes, they are LOUD and maybe bike hasn't been tuned for them?
3. Headlight is *****, what better options should I look for?
4. Tank size options? Or best just to not worry about it?
Other than that I'm pretty happy with my purchase, and I am a VTR convert.
Pic of the stride below (hopefully it will come up):
Thanks in advance guys.
1. Its a Yellow 99 model, with 61,000 klm on it. What OTHER than MCCT's would you automatically look out for or do? Oil change, spark plugs and coolant flush all done.
2. The thing is lumpy, but its not clean lumpy under 4 thou, if you know what I mean. It idles fine, it runs good, better higher in the rev range. Is this normal or a carb balance is in order?
Could be to do with the pipes, they are LOUD and maybe bike hasn't been tuned for them?
3. Headlight is *****, what better options should I look for?
4. Tank size options? Or best just to not worry about it?
1) R/R upgrade to MOSFET, grease/service/replace shock/swingarm linkage bearings, and starter motor terminal, sort out front suspension and rear.
2) Worth doing if you don't know when it was last done - worth fitting at the same time a front vacuum take off point (and hose) on the front pot - so it's easy job to do in the future.
3) Make sure its pointing in the right direction using the adjusters - consider fitting an Eager Beaver replay kit so headlight draws directly from the battery. Replace melty nylon bulb holders with ceramic and push the limits with an extra wattage bulb, Alternatively fit some auxiliary lights where you can.
4) Fill up at least every 80 miles - Strap a can on - Fit VFR tank or light a torch and get welding for 450 mile tank range (mucho handy in Mad Max Aussieland)
1. Its a Yellow 99 model, with 61,000 klm on it. What OTHER than MCCT's would you automatically look out for or do? Oil change, spark plugs and coolant flush all done.
2. The thing is lumpy, but its not clean lumpy under 4 thou, if you know what I mean. It idles fine, it runs good, better higher in the rev range. Is this normal or a carb balance is in order?
Could be to do with the pipes, they are LOUD and maybe bike hasn't been tuned for them?
3. Headlight is *****, what better options should I look for?
4. Tank size options? Or best just to not worry about it?
1) R/R upgrade to MOSFET, grease/service/replace shock/swingarm linkage bearings, and starter motor terminal, sort out front suspension and rear.
2) Worth doing if you don't know when it was last done - worth fitting at the same time a front vacuum take off point (and hose) on the front pot - so it's easy job to do in the future.
3) Make sure its pointing in the right direction using the adjusters - consider fitting an Eager Beaver replay kit so headlight draws directly from the battery. Replace melty nylon bulb holders with ceramic and push the limits with an extra wattage bulb, Alternatively fit some auxiliary lights where you can.
4) Fill up at least every 80 miles - Strap a can on - Fit VFR tank or light a torch and get welding for 450 mile tank range (mucho handy in Mad Max Aussieland)
Wicky, thanks for the response. I'll look into the "I can do myself stuff" first, and then move onto the suspension.
Love that Blue, alas at my price range the yellow was the ONLY colour option.
Well sheet, Wicky pretty much replied the same info I would. Mine runs ***** from off idle to reline, so if she studders, pull and clean carbs (balance and check tps adjustment).
Welcome to the forum and the VTR. It's a cracking good bike when sorted. Very reliable. Mine hasn't given me one hickup in the 11 years I've owned it.
Another thing you might check is the steering head bearings. If left untouched from new, they tend to get loose then sometimes wear a slight notch at the straight position if previous owners liked to lift the front wheel.
Well sheet, Wicky pretty much replied the same info I would. Mine runs ***** from off idle to reline, so if she studders, pull and clean carbs (balance and check tps adjustment).
Welcome to the forum and the VTR. It's a cracking good bike when sorted. Very reliable. Mine hasn't given me one hickup in the 11 years I've owned it.
Another thing you might check is the steering head bearings. If left untouched from new, they tend to get loose then sometimes wear a slight notch at the straight position if previous owners liked to lift the front wheel.
Where ya from, or did I miss that?
Cheers Wolverine.
Steering head bearings already done, required for rego, so all good on that front.
Suspect carbs need a balance, its not super urgent just have a feeling it could be better so will get to it sooner rather than later.
Glad to hear about reliability, this will now be my daily (if I don't have to take the kids) so that is my number one priority.
I am really enjoying getting to know it, baby steps first.....lots of fun.
CCT's and R/R and you're good to go. Have you looked at the 3 yellow wire plug yet?
A little bit firmer spring in the forks if you are over 150 is a tremendous improvement too.
Welcome, Butts. I had an '86 'slab side' GSXR750. Wish I still did...
When I got my VTR the carbs were whack. A PO (or the shop he chose) had done mods to them which didn't make much sense. It ran ok, but it seemed like they'd done a DynoJet kit, then did a bunch of non-standard stuff to make it work. I had someone who knows what they're doing sort it out for me, and essentially returned the carbs to stock setup. Your 'lumpiness' might require some de-modding. Just a thought. Hopefully no one modified your carbs, and they'll be good-to-go with balancing, and perhaps a good cleaning.
The mods I've had done to mine mostly parallel the advice you've received. Another thought: lightened flywheel for quicker throttle response. Not required. But fun.
I got Eric Marquez's R/R upgrade, and Jamie Daughtry's upgraded F4i rear shock. I also did (er...had done) the 'Roger Ditchfield' front fork mod (this is controversial, but improved the handling; less expensive option than upside-down forks upgrade). Do the front caliper upgrade (I installed 954RR calipers), w/ braided lines. I also put a top-box on mine and can carry two Reda 1-gal cans for an easy 150 miles range, if needed. Me, I need to stretch my 'butt' every 75 miles or so, so the gas thing doesn't bother me. Yep, the VTRs are thirsty.
Another nice upgrade when you get to discretionary mods is lighter wheels, as for all bikes. Some guys use other year Honda wheels (threads on it here). I bought some after-markets. This will improve handling.
I bought my 1997 with 70,000km, and as soon as I had it home I gave it a big once over. Replaced steering head bearings and lubed the swingarm and shock bearings, lubed the throttle tube and cables. I bought a Morgan Carbtune balancing kit and keep the balance on my three bikes as close to perfect as I can, and they all idle nicely and run well at low revs. You may need to look at the throttle position sensor on the side of the carbs and adjust the position so it reads 500 Ohms at idle, that should help the low speed running too. It's not a big job to lift the carbs out, and I would suggest you remove the float bowls and pull the jets out for a clean, as any dirt in the low speed jet won't help low speed running. Ridden sensibly(i.e. swift but not stupid) I get an easy 200km to the low fuel light and have gone as far as 250km.
For the lights I'd suggest getting a decent LED "bulb", these are plug and play and give the VTR much needed extra night illumination. E.g. Cyclops Motorsport or similar.
I've also added CBR954RR brakes with EBC pads, and reworked the springs and dampers up front and put an Ohlins in the back, and the VTR is a lovely handler.
Okay a little update on my VTR.
Firstly, really loving it, its ALWAYS my first choice of transport if I need to go anywhere. Getting comfortable with it now, suspension I think I'm going to have to tackle at some stage.
Anyway, being slightly "vertically challenged" my feet don't sit flat when stationery. So the inevitable happened. Off camber rise, Ute in front props and stops, hit the anchors and stop, left foot goes out .........................to nothingness!!
All air for about 6 inches.................and over we go due to momentum. :-(
Slight crack on the left side fairing, Ute driver very apologetic and assists me to right the bike. Check everything, collect my thoughts and off I go again cursing.
Now what to do to fix the crack? Easy you reckon?
As an aside, waiting on some LED's to arrive to replace in my dash, can't remember who's thread it was that prompted it but thank you. Still deciding on Headlight upgrade.
Also have a slight split in the front of the seat, on the leading edge. Can't visibly see it, but when she rains (mine lives outdoors as no room in the garage with multiple cars) seat collects water.
So when I ride into work after it has rained, I walk in with a water mark down my jeans looking like I've pissed myself. What are those prefab seat covers like to put on? Any recommendations?
Lastly, my IOM stickers have arrived. Yes, you can think its a bit of a ****, but my father was born in the Isle of Man and I've been to the TT several times. I got them to remember him by,
as he passed away last month. Its a personal thing.
Try and find a vehicle seat upholster local to you who could refoam it a tad lower and recover wiith suitable vinyl for a comfier butt. In the meantime get it as dry as possible and apply some duck tape as a temporary incontinence bodge, and on the seat as well ;-)
As for busted plastic > https://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=26537
Be advised to drill a small hole asap to prevent the crack extending any further. Then investigate other methods inc glue, plastic welding etc. depending if you want to DIY and feel confident or get a specialist to undertake repairs and finishing.
Plastic
drill a 2-3mm hole at the leading edge of the crack to assist in stopping it from propagating.
Use a small rotary tool like what is branded here in the US as a Dremal
To lightly sand the back side of the crack, clean off just the red, no more for the length of the crack plus about 5mm and about 10mm on each side.V knotch the crack just a 1mm or less deep and 2~3mm at widest
Use a plastic epoxy like
Im sure there are other epoxies that will work but I KNOW these two do.
Mix enough epoxy to put a layer over your cleaned area, let cure the FULL recommended time for full cure before touching the fairing again...Its Soooo tempting to work with the repaired part when the min time for harding has passed......and you will regret it when the repair fails.
For the seat....If I lived anyplace out side of the US, i wold be getting a seat cover from https://www.elsemade.co.uk
Thanks Wicky and Marquez.
I've read Wicky's how to fix, so just need to find some time and no rain to tackle it. I've repaired a lot of surfboards in my time, so reasonably comfortable doing this.
I can't easily get Plastex, its bloody expensive as well, so will look into the alternatives Marquez has shown.
As for the seat, I've been looking into upholsters and there is one near me who reckons its an easy job/reasonable price.
Appreciated guys.
Erik, got me some JB Weld ($8.50 US) as no easy access to Plastex. So pretty well ready for when I get a dry period (and I'm not riding the bike).
So as its STILL raining here, and expected to continue for the next 5 days (been raining now for 10 days straight!).
Thought I'd tackle what I SHOULD have done straight up.
R/R and CCT's.
Low and behold, I check the R/R and I am happy to say I do NOT have the standard OEM R/R, I have a big bastard. Pic attached.
So seeing as the R/R has been done, I'm wondering but don't want to guess the CCT's have been done also.
The guy I bought it off works at a Motorcycle dealer, but I don't want to assume they have been done.
Now CCT's are a little different for me to do, basically cause I have no idea what I am doing or looking for.
How do I know if I have ACCT's, ACCT's with the stopper mod or MCCT's?
Pics are helpful, don't worry about instructions on how to get to them as they have been well documented in this forum and
I can follow instructions. Thanks as always.
Low and behold, I check the R/R and I am happy to say I do [b
NOT have the standard OEM R/R, I have a big bastard. Pic attached.
.
What you have a is a cheap Chinese after market diode based RR, and it to will fail eventually. It might be better then an early version OEM one, but its still a failure prone one that will never get you charging performance of a better MOSFET and good install.
What you have a is a cheap Chinese after market diode based RR, and it to will fail eventually. It might be better then an early version OEM one, but its still a failure prone one that will never get you charging performance of a better MOSFET and good install.
WTF???? Damn not what I was expecting.
Thanks Erik for pointing it out, not what I wanted to hear though.
Yep, auto's. How mechanically inclined are you? You can really screw up the motor if you do the procedure wrong or mis-adjust the manuals.
Wolverine, mechanically minded.......................................mmmm not much but prepared to give it a go.
I do have access to a mechanic/fitter and turner/bike nut here at work, so maybe a slab of beer and I'd be good.
(He does the job, I drink the slab!!) :-)
I do like the stopper mod, I know I know, there are pros and cons.
I have been reading all of the threads on APE, Kreiger, Ade and Bazza's as well as Stopper mod.
For me the stopper mod allows the ACCT's to still work as intended but if/when it fails it won't kill my engine.
I'm going with the thought, Mr Honda made them the way they are for a reason.
Oh well, up to do more reading and find where I can order replacements at a reasonable cost. OZ is a great place to live, but SUCKS when you have to order
proper stuff as the shipping kills you.
Thanks for everyone's help, appreciated.
Wicky, unfortunately it seems there is no distributor here. :-( But I have a lead, which hopefully will pay off.
Erik, haven't got back to you yet, just waiting for appropriate funds to be available for my present!! :-)
So today, MAJOR UPGRADE at minimal cost was performed. Cost $2.20, time allowed 5 minutes. Bike parked downstairs at work in the building, so brought everything in with me.
Spanners, check, screwdrivers, check, Allen keys, check, fark it tool and pair of pliers and off we go.
Remove first bolt from cluster on right hand side, check. Remove bottom bolt, check. Attempt to get spanner into recess on lefthand bolt, fark!! Where is my socket set????
Attempt with pliers, got to be joking. Try with fark it tool, pointless. So what to do???
Okay, need access so start pulling fairing apart. Get half way through disassembling fairing and mate walks past, "What are you doing?" Quick explanation, mention damn socket set.
"Oh, what size?" 10mm I say, and low and behold he has one!! Winning!! So off comes the final bolt. Pull cluster out rotate over, and replace 5, 6 and 8 with new leds.
Time taken 32 minutes. Still not bad considering I didn't have what I needed. Lesson: LOOK at what you are going to do before assuming what tools you MIGHT need.
Thanks to Erik for posting a long time ago about the upgrade, and VTR org for bulb references.
Results:
After:
What a cheap simple upgrade. Nice sense of achievement, especially for this NON motor minded git. Cheers.
05-29-2018, 05:52 AM
. Sort of gave me a slight sense of comfort.
