First off, I would like to know if anyone knows who makes these wheels?
I bought these from a guy in FL was told they were for VTR1000 Superhawk & also fit CBR600 F3. I bought them a while ago and since it has been rainy the past few days , decided to mount some rubber on them, polish them up and see how they looked on the bike. Front went on fine no problems at all, looks great. Then I got to the rear and that's when I ran into my problem. Probably pretty simple for someone who know's a little more than me but I am sorta a newb and figured I would ask advise before I went any further. Well first thing is it has a 45 sprocket so chain is of course short(no biggy) but would like to get a smaller so I guess I need to know the manufacter of wheel for that? Maybe?
Second and biggest thing I ran into is for the wheel to run center it needs 1/4" added to sprocket side outside of spocket, which would probably be easily fixed with thicker spacer. But on the rotor side it needs an additional 1/2" but it needs to be spaced between wheel & rotor so the rotor will be set out to line up with caliper and have the caliper bracket fit in the slot on swingarm. I tried to take some pics so you can get an idea of what I have, if any other pics or measurements are needed just let me know and I will get them. Any help will be greatly appreciated and I wanted to try here before I went to a shop to get reamed!!!
Thanks,
Bill

 

PM? (Performance Machine)

 

I have looked at all the performance machine wheels and many other brands but cannot find these anywhere . That's why I hoped someone on here may be able to help me out with the brand or best way to modify what I have to what I need to have.

 

you'll be wheelying out of you're garage with that sprocket and they'll be calling you wild bill. you can take the sprocket off and look for a part number/company name. take the tires off and see if you can locate some info inside the rims.

spacer-wise, I would center the wheel, measure the spaces needed, take the axle to a machine shop/fabricator and have them make you a couple of spacers.

 

are you sure that the rear wheel isnt actually for a f3? the f3 fronts work fine on our bikes, but the rears are narrower than the stock hawk wheel. what size rubber did you mount on it?

 

You're also going to have to pay close attention to the brake rotor/caliper side... From looking at your photos I'm not sure if you can move the caliper bracket that far off the swingarm (towards the center of the wheel) and still have enough overlap between the front of caliper bracket and swingarm stop that keeps the brakcet from rotating.

J.

 

Nath981,
Yeah, that's what I was figuring also about the wheelie's that is also why I was wanting to get a smaller sprocket, probably another 41 cause I think it runs great the way it is now with stock sizes.

Shmittay,
I was told these wheels were for both bikes. Was I lied to? Actually the rim is the same size 6" as the original wheel and I mounted a 180/55 on it.

SlowHAWK,
Yeah, I know about that , that's why I said I needed to space the rotor out 1/2" from the wheel to bring it out to line up with the bracket on the swingarm. I don't think the caliper would do a lot of good rotating round & round .

Would it be as simple as having a machine shop maching a couple spacers for the wheel to get it to work? Also this wheel doesn't have the cush drive, sprocket is hard bolted straight to wheel, what difference would that make?

I think they look good, just gotem make it work now!

 

Would it be as simple as having a machine shop maching a couple spacers for the wheel to get it to work? Also this wheel doesn't have the cush drive, sprocket is hard bolted straight to wheel, what difference would that make?

yes it would be that simple if you can assure that the sprockets are in line, the brake rotor/caliper are in line, and if the swingarm is not squeezed or spread. relative to the

cush drive missing, I am in uncharted territory since I never had a bike without one that i know of. someone more knowledgeable can comment on the cush drive.

gearing-wise, optimum is 15front-43r if you would dyno the bike and want to match top speed and max rpm. If you're interested in low rpm, high cruising speed for fuel economy, stock 16-41 is good enough.

 

You may wanna start by measuring a few things with a caliper...
Your stock wheel with the cush drive from bearing to bearing, then your new wheel bearing to bearing... that will give you an idea of how far off you are to start with.
If you can also measure the distance from the left side bearing surface of the cush to the sprocket on and do the same on the new wheel that will also help a bit in determining where you will need to line things up sprocket wise.
You will also need the rim width to find the centerline...

With these you'll be able to start to get an idea of spacer lengths, and if you'll need to shim the rotor/sprocket... after that, honestly you'll have a bit of trial and error.

J.

 

Well, a cushdrive is beneficial with a torqey Twin... not neccesary though, but you will notice a more twitchy behaviour when doing "stop and go" and in takeoff...

I'd probably start with centerline... Figure that out and put the wheel in that place... THEN measure to see if the sprocket is lined up... if not you have a problem...

Shimming the wheel to centerline is "easy"... also the caliper is more than possible... The big possible problem I see is the missing cushdrive... Shimming the sprocket more than a very small amount isn't something I'd recommend... Altough from the pics there seems to be a large spacer thingy instead of the cushdrive...