Jet Kit....
 

So I dont take away from someone eleses thread Im starting this on. Hopeing Greg and 7moore7 will chime in. Going off of what we were talking about in this thread https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...18/#post326998

Well I just took the tops off the carbs and pulled the needles, looks like I have atleast aftermarket needles if not a full jet kit. Needles I have in mt SH have slots. The "c" clips are in the 3rd slot down from the top and I have 2 slots left. Im going to drop the needles one slot to see if it cures my lean spot at 3k rpm cruise.
Good Idea?!?!?!

Ok so without getting to ahead of my self without any input from those who know more than me I have a question.
Got the rear carb apart and moved the needle clip down one from where it was (now 4th slot from top) and put it back together.
Should I do the same to the front carb or leave it where it is? I have read a lot of info on here that talks about shimming the rear carb needle more (.020-.030) than the front. Wont be taking the bike out today, but might take a run back up to Daytona tomorrow at which point I can see if adjusting the rear carb fixed my 3k rpm lean spot.

Thanks in advance for any info or help.

Ok so after further examination both the front and rear Carb needles are adjusted to slot 3 from the top and both also had a .015 washer/shim. Which made the length from base of shim to end of needle 2.30. Now if I eliminate the shims and move the C clip to slot #4 that then makes the length from base of clip to needle end 2.275. Meaning each slot adjustment is roughly.028-.030. So my question is do I adjust both carbs? Do I move the clips or take one shim and move it to the rear?

Need some help!!!!

OK well thanks for the help. Out of 80 views.

You're going to have to wait for the experts on this! How are you diagnosing the lean condition? Do you work the enrichment circuit?

As 7Moore7 has said in the other thread I listed in my 1st post, If the bike runs better with the choke on its lean. Bike does not like to cruise at 3k rpm, bucks and kicks. But run it at closer to 4k and its nice!!!
I moved the clips to the 4th slot on both front and rear carbs, but havent bottened it all together yet. Hoping I get some info before I put it all back together.

The only way to tell is trial and error. Won't those clip adjustments make it uber fat on the bottom end?

From what I measured moving the clip to the next slot (4th from top) and taking away the shim that was on the needle along with the clip being on the 3rd slot is a .030 difference. I have read some threads that say adjust both needles .020-.030 and some threads have said just adjust the rear.xxx .
Thats why I was hoping the powers that be could lend a bit of advice, I dont want to put it all back together to only have to take it all apart. Cant ride today anyhow. Pouring rain!!!

V, to be honest I have no idea what else jet kit wise has been done to the carbs other than the needles. Didnt dive that far into the carbs. I know it does have a jet kit in it as I talked to the friend I bought it from yesterday and he said "yes" the shop he used to bring it to installed one. Also the bike runs great from 4k to red line. Just have the lean surge/bucking at 3k. Gas mileage seem to right on with most I have talked to on here.

Thanks V. No I havent taken the carbs apart to do any cleaning. I have a can of Sea Foam and was gonna run the correct amount in the tank this week while heading up to Daytona.
First and second will easily pull the front wheel and pulls strong thru the entire rev range. Just that small cruising rpm range that I go lean. But it seems I spend a good bit of time in the range.....LOL. Sucks.

Do you mean wrist only wheelie in 2d and no clutch? Mine won't do that but will in 1st at 3k rpm. In 2d at about 8k rpm it feels like the tire spins but no front end lift. If it helps I took these carbs down today and found a non Honda 180 jet in front and stock 45s slo jet. In back I found Honda 178 and 45s jets. I found non stock 5.25 inch slide spring in back with stock needle with .030 shim and haven't looked a front slide yet. The plugs are colored right and it tested 165 psi cold crank pressure on both cylinders. This one has no hint of lean surge and that's why I posted all this.

Just got the carbs and air box all put back on, so I will do the cleaning next time the weather turns crapy for a few days.
My baffectomy removed just the one baffle, there is a total of 3 in the stock cans so 2 remain.
The guy I bought the bike from told me again today that a complete jet kit was installed. But I guess when I do the cleaning I will confirm that.
Not sure who Nath is? But Id be happy to get all the helpful info I can get from folks.
Thanks!!!

Thanks a lot!!! I will give him a shout and see if he can help. Thanks again for all the info and help!!!

Well had a chance to take the hawk out today. And where the F&R needles sit now (slot #4 from top) is to rich. From a roll at 70 mph it falls on it face. Bogs down bad!!
But I still hav the lean spot @ 3k. Hmmmmm Dont know what to do. Im thinking I might just put it back to the way it was both needles @ #3 slot w/.015 shim under both. Or should I drop the front needle and keep the rear raised?
Need Some Help!!!! Please

Thanks V, Im gonna dive into them a little further once bike week is over. I know at the original setting it ran great up top at hwy speeds and above. And only ran like crap at 3k. So Im gonna return the needles back to there starting point and move from there.

Thanks you!!

:shock: YEAH good idea!!

+1 on the 48 pilots. And FWIW I've had good luck with the rear needle shimmed slightly as you were indicating in earlier posts. But I haven't dyno'd my bike (it's on the list!) so take that with a grain of salt.

Give 8541Hawk a shout (I think he's back to consistent internet access now). He knows these carbs backwards and forwards and may have some additional insight to your personal setup.

Ok 7, If I shim the R and not the F then I would be basically leaving the R at its current setting and returning the F to its previous setting minus the .020 shim?

Yeah that's how I would do it if I were doing a baseline setup with a jet kit... although if I recall correctly my extra shim is at .010" not .020". Each bike seems to be a little different, and unfortunately I'm only comfortable with mine ;)

Ok Ill give the setting a shot. I measured the shims with 2 different sets of dial calipers I have and ( one I know is .001 off) and the both came up the same .020. I have to run (literally) to Home Depot I was thinking of seeing it I could find something thinner. Some one said on here a #4 washer is good?
That sound like a good idea?

Welp moved the clips and shims back to where I started. Im gonna take the bike out tomorrow some time to make sure it running the way it was prior to the first adjustment.
Havent had a chance yesterday or today, been at the hospital with my wife. All is better now.

Still need some help
 

Ok I have seeked the advice of some of the "Elders" here and havent heard back from them so Im asking the few that have helped thus far, 7 and V.
Took the bike out today for a run to Orlando and back. And I found the 3k lean spot seemed to get a little worse in traffic and as the engine temp climbed.

So when I got home I took it all apart and removed the shim from the front needle and moved the clip to the 4th slot on the rear needle. Making the difference between the two .040. Took the bike back out and it seemed better. 3k lean spot is a little better and in traffic it didnt seem to get worse.
My question is this, What are your thoughts about bumping up the front needle with a .020 shim, making the difference only .020 between needles and plugging one hole to slow the front slide.
I read on the "Carb Set Up " thread about plugging one of the holes, but didnt know if it would benefit a set up like mine and with the lean issues Im having.

As always I am grateful for the help!!!

Just to chime in as an old timer but not a carb expert: You are running the stock air filter right?

Yes correct. Stock filter

I think you found the solution right there: things got worse so it was the wrong direction. From what I can tell your problems were not a lean condition but rather a rich condition. Remember, these can and will feel exactly the same. Have you read your plugs?

Try going lean one step from your baseline and I'll bet you will be ok. Don't switch from the #45 pilots - I've never seen a VTR run good with anything else. Good luck!

UGH!!!!! Bike ran like crap between 2-3k in traffic. Holy crap it didnt want to get out of its own way. It was Lean, pull the choke half out and it ran good. Made riding around the Daytona speedway not a lot of fun cause we were for the most part cruising at 3k. And when I came to a stop and had to get going again it spit and sputtered and even died at one point. But once I get going like on the way home and at WOT to red line its strong and no problems. Now that bike week is done for me Im gonna take the carbs completely off the bike and take them apart to see what on the inside. Also adjust the Pilot Screws, but do you need a special tool to adjust that?
HELP HELP HELP!!!!

Since you have the carbs off, slot those pilots so you can adjust them without the "special tool". Make sure you're set up to synch them too.

R, How does one slot the pilot screw? I was also going to clean all the jets.

The screw is D shaped... Run a skinny file or fine tooth blade across the middle of it to make a slot for a small tip screwdriver head to fit.

Took the carbs off today and as it turns out I dont have a jet kit, I do have sloted needles. The rear jets are 175/45 stock right? The fronts are 172/45, stock right? The front is stamped 38 but someone scribed 45 in it. Hmmm, I have a stock 45 ordered from local honda dealer.Cleaning everything now then on to the pilot screws.