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Instrument Panel/Electrical Issue
So I did a few things on the bike down to swapping in Krieger CCT's. I had the battery on a tender all winter and finally got everything put back together last night.
I had tach, speed, temp, and odometer when it was idling and maybe the first mile I rode it but lost them, my neutral light and my top 'head'light(the lil guy above the main headlight). I still have my main headlight, brake, and turn signals as well as the turn signal and brights indicator on the instrument panel. It was late last night so I didn't get a change to check much in the way of cables or read up in the manual. Hopefully this is just a fuse or maybe a bad cable? Thanks |
There is a fuse for the cluster under the tail, check that, check connections and report back
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Yea, thanks, the 'meter' fuse is blowing. It only seems to go when I really get on the throttle. I did a slow roll on and it got to 8k rpm w/out problem, then I got on it and poof. Any recommendations?
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Sounds like your R/R (Regulator/Rectifier) isn't doing what it is supposed to do. Do you still have the stock, crappy R/R?
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Yup... That's the box on the ?right? side? Thought it had a heat sink on it, or what looks like 1? And I think I saw a video of someone replacing it with an R1's? Is this better to go with after market rather than factory like the CCT's?
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Originally Posted by hondahawk
(Post 385071)
Yup... That's the box on the ?right? side? Thought it had a heat sink on it, or what looks like 1? And I think I saw a video of someone replacing it with an R1's? Is this better to go with after market rather than factory like the CCT's?
https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...why-how-25117/ |
Most likely the R/R putting out above safe voltage... Don't ride the bike until you have measured it out...
If you are really unlucky and get very excessive voltage, the ECU and cluster might need replacing, and they aren't cheap at all... |
For sure, I love electrical problems... might as well take the whole thing apart and redo it all. Had someone recommend checking all the grounds on it too. I didn't change anything electrical in my work, could the R/R have gone bad from storage/corrosion?
I have 3 wires going to my right front turn signal and 1 of them is torn from its connector. It could have come loose when I took the fairing off. I'll solder em up and see what happens. And would I just check the voltage at the leads of the R/R?
Originally Posted by Tweety
(Post 385107)
Don't ride the bike until you have measured it out...
If you are really unlucky and get very excessive voltage, the ECU and cluster might need replacing, and they aren't cheap at all... |
Originally Posted by hondahawk
(Post 385155)
For sure, I love electrical problems... might as well take the whole thing apart and redo it all. Had someone recommend checking all the grounds on it too. I didn't change anything electrical in my work, could the R/R have gone bad from storage/corrosion?
I have 3 wires going to my right front turn signal and 1 of them is torn from its connector. It could have come loose when I took the fairing off. I'll solder em up and see what happens. And would I just check the voltage at the leads of the R/R? So I should just run it w/out that fuse and the panel blank right? Then when I get pulled over I can say 'sorry officer I have no idea how fast I was going'. The fuse makes absolutely no difference what so ever if your R/R feeds 15-16V or more to the ECU and gauges, as there are other paths to the parts that are important... They still go "poof" and smell funny... And I doubt you'll figure out a way to run the bike without the ECU... Basically, the R/R was defective when it left the factory IMHO, but others might have another opinion... The design is unreliable, and when it fails, it takes important stuff with it... |
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