I was wandering through the Internet today and can across a very interesting article on how to make a $2.00 carb sync tool! All the carb sync tools that I saw on line were $90-110 and I thought to myself there has to be a way to engineer one. So I came across this link a thread that I was reading and thought I would pass this along.

http://www.powerchutes.com/manometer.asp

I have not tried it yet, but I spent $70 at my local Honda dealership to have this done, so I am game to try.

Good luck and post your successes or failures with this item.

 

I use a Carbtune II. It comes with restrictors that go inline with the vacuum tubing. These restrictors have a very small I.D., maybe .010”. They keep the readings from jumping all over the place. Without something like that, that DIY kit may not be of much use.

 

I use my Mitey Vac brake bleeder and pinch the line to calm the needle down.

 

where does that hook onto?
and any ideal what the superhawk should run at?

 

From what I understand the home made jobs are much more sensitive (accurate) than the mercury ones sold.

 

I can say this set up works well. Atf,Mavel Mystery Oil or 2 stroke oil work well -- no harm no fowl if it gets sucked into engine. For an I-4 make up 2 and put lines side by side. Make sure all hoses are attached before starting or fluid will get sucked out. I like MMO because it is of it's lite weight(more sensitive). Best of all it's cheap. Home Depot or Lowes for tubing by the foot and tubing fittings.

 

I made mine with some wide mouth glass bottles, rubber stoppers, clear plasitc tubing and ATF. One inch of mercury = 13.6 inces of water at vacuum. I'd guess ATF at 15-17 inches.

I'm able to dial those columns within a half inch of each other. That is about 1/30th the spec Honda calls for. The difference between merely "in spec" and 1/30th spec is something I can feel before I get out of the driveway.

Adjusting two columns of mercury to within 1/30th of an inch of each other is way tougher than ATF to within a half an inch.