I just finished (for today anyway) a factory 1.1 install. The PO had installed a DJ Stage-3 kit, I do not know why as there was no need for it. I removed a 190 front mj, a 195 rear mj and 45"s" pilots. The slides were drilled and longer springs were in there. I should mention that the front needle retaining spring was missing. I swapped a K&N for a BMC filter and installed Dr Honda aluminum v-stacks as well. Staintune exhaust already installed.

It was clear that this was a bit rich, so I ordered the 1.1 kit to help solve it. I am currently on clip 3, 182 front, 180 rear and 50 pilots with 1.5 turns out. I thought that 50s were a bit large, so on first try, I installed 45 (not s) that I had. No good - pop pop pop. I would have liked to put in 48 but I did not have any, so I put in the 50 that were included with the 1.1 kit. Works better. I have 48 on order and will try them.

Here are my questions: Why were 50 pilots included with the 1.1 kit? Factorypro must have a reason. They seem large based on all that I have read here. Second, there appears to be more black exhaust than there should be when I close the throttle. Is this normal on a dePAIRed SH? Thank you. JB

Sorry, forgot to mention the needle. I have the one from FP in there now. I think it's set at the second highest position. I can't remember exactly.

I also have the stockers and a set of DJ's along with the drilled slides and springs.

Now you've got me thinking about trying those 50's from FP. It seems logical to me that they would help with the lower end and it should still have a small effect in the higher rpm range. Please, correct me if I'm wrong.

Cool thread! I'm in cuz I'll need help from you carb gurus too:)

With my STG 1 motor transplant underway I'll need a new jet kit soon.

I'm going topless on the air box so here's what I've been told to start with:
195 F
200 R
needle G3
slow jet# 55

Actually, I think that's even bigger than Bills! What jet kit should I get?

That is correct, they don't turn off after a certain RPM so even though the effect is rather small, they do contribute to the fuel flow at high RPM.

Well first, I've never heard of a "G3" needle so can't help you there and actually I have never heard of anyone really getting things to work after removing the airbox lid.

You might try giving Marc a call at Factory Pro to see if he can give you any insight but other than that, I can only help after you get it running and you tell me what it is doing.

Good luck with your project. ;)

Thanks, I'll ask Roger what he means by G3 needle. Also, I pulled the current jets and one of the mains says FACTORY on it so I'm thinking there's currently a factory pro kit in there...here's what came out:

175F
182R
45S

Should I get a whole new kit or just drop in new mains and slow jets?

G3 means needle clip in 3rd groove

hey, my old thread came back to life!

i still haven't got my mechanic to rejet for me. the rejetting is low priority because the bike has only been ridden a handful of times.

I made some adjustments on mine today. I'm up to 50 on the pilots and went up one size on the mains. I know it's not good practice to make multiple changes simultaneously. But I tend to do my own thing.

I won't know for sure if it is all sorted out for a week or two when I get back on the dyno. But first impressions are good. Seemed to start up better and settle into a nice idle better than before. And I haven't even adjusted the fuel screw yet. That will be done tomorrow when I have an extra set of hands to help out.

You may have covered this, but have you adjusted the TPS to 500ohms? That really helped mine start so much easier, and that was before any jetting changes.

Yes. TPS is, and has been, right around 500 ohms.

I was having terrible lean issues on my hawk after jetting. I since turned the pilot screws out to 2.5 in accordance with dynojets instructions and raised the needles to the 5th position. My mains are 185 r and 180 f. No more backfires thru the carbs and no more stumbles between 3/4 k rpm. Fuel mileage is consistently between one thirty five, one forty miles on 3.6 gallons of fuel depending on how i ride. Doesn't seem too rich, but won't know for sure til I get on the dyno. Thoughts?

What size are your pilots?

Oh yes. Sorry forgot to include thst: 45s

It sounds like you are compensating for small pilots with a high needle, put some 48 in there, you may then be able to raise the needle clip to #3 or #4 from top and have more adjustment on the pilot (3 is about the limit of effectiveness) screws, start with 1.5 to 2.0 turns out.

Or, if you are happy with the way the bike runs now, do nothing and enjoy it, they are all a bit different so it may be fine.

Thanks for the info. I'll probably try the larger pilots and bring the needles down a bit, then adjust the screws after I get on the dyno. Figured I should ask since I've noticed nobody set their pilots 2.5 out. Seems like everyone has theirs no further out than 2.25.

Where could I find 48s? Honda shop has to order them and they are $23 each.

Dynojet advises staying with the OEM/#45 pilots. They claim if the bike runs better with larger pilots you're just compensating for something else you didn't get right.

I know Factorypro does it differently, but since you've got Dynojet, I'd go with their advice. If your bike is running well with the needles in the fifth groove, I'd leave them there.

I've got my pilot screws 2.75 out (Ca. bikes need extra 1/4 per Honda).

I tried 2.25 when I rejetted and the bike wouldn't idle without choke even when it was fully warmed up. Maybe people who have installed larger pilots need to turn back the pilot screws? I just know 2.25 didn't work on my bike.

Honda part number 99103-MT2-0450 is for #45 slow jet
Honda part number 99103-MT2-0480 is for #48 slow jet
Honda part number 99103-MT2-0500 is for #50 slow jet

Any of the online places, servicehonda.com is usually the cheapest.

you guys are making my head hurt

Thanks for those part numbers. Also, thanks to rk for offering an opposing point of view. I appreciate it when guy do thst as it gives me the ability to contrast and compare and hopefully make a more informed decision. Oh and pooch; Sorry to confuse you. Just hang out on the forum. It'll start to make sense.

Sure Steve. I'm not knocking G's or anyone else's advice 'cause if it worked for them it worked for them. I just know what worked for me with the Dynojet kit. I've got the OEM air filter and V&H street baffle slip ons.

I've got Dynojet 175f/180r and needles on the fifth groove. I've got no flat spots or hiccups from idle to redline.

I can dial in or back off tiny increments of throttle in a corner and the motor does exactly what I want. I get mid 40s mpg on the freeway.

I agree with RK1's point. What works for me may not work for you when it comes to jetting. All we can do is suggest.

believe me it's much appreciated. Because of your info, I now know what I need to do if my dyno readings are not ideal. I get that done on Tuesday. I'll let you guys know. I'm hoping I got it where I need it for the mixture. As far as hp last time it was one hundred two. Seems lower thsn most guys with similar setups. I'd like to pick up 2 or 3 hp. The shop thst initially installed the jet kit tuned with pair enabled which screwed up the ega reading I'm sure. Now with that gone snd the bike at least appearing to be set up right, things should be different this time around.

I am in the process of installing a Power Commander 5 with the Auto-tune option on my Interceptor. A prereq is the remove the PAIR system so that the auto-tune sensor (a probe in the exhaust) will get an accurate reading.

I wish I knew that earlier. But I seem to have to learn everything the hard way. Haha

so you're in the club...

Well, I couldn't have said that better myself...;)

I learn stuff the hard way, every time... If someone tells me that it won't work I'm damned sure going to try it before I agree... ;) So far I have proved a few theories to be true and a few, very few to be wrong...;)

At least I'm in good company. Lol!!