Fuel tank swap question
 

So I'm fixing up an '02 (U.S. model) I recently bought. Tank was dented and found a real nice tank in Greece (like I've said parts are getting harder to come by). Said it was off an '01, so either Greece didn't get the 19L tank or it's off an earlier year(not that I was even looking for one or that it was described as one). Think it might be off an earlier model though as it has the earlier style sending unit inside. Sooo... already read some real helpful info on here about swapping sending units (bending the float to 60 degrees, etc. so it'll fit). My question is regarding this restrictor plate thing in the tank, and do I leave it or remove it? I found online it might have to do with not allowing the use of leaded fuels with larger pumps (does that sound correct and is that it's only purpose?). Hoping it doesn't get in the way of the new sending unit. Thanks.

Impatient as I am I already ripped it out. Allowed me to see what I was doing with regards to bending the float to work. Who know how many internal variations Honda blessed us with but for what it's worth I had to bend the arm 90 degrees and 90 degrees back to effectively shorten it enough to clear the vent tube inside. Now that I can see inside it seems to move freely up and down through the full range of motion, so the gauge should read properly. Be a few weeks before I get back to this and filling it up to know for sure though.

If that was in the US, Yes Id say it was a unledded dispenser restrictor. As it came from Greece, I have no idea if such a thing was even done

Some EU bikes had that, various sizes for the various fuels including diesel, to make it fool proof... Stupid and unnecessary IMHO...

I have the fuel tank off my '98, on my '05. I didn't have to bend the float as much as you have to clear the vent tube. And yes, it works just fine for me.

Yeah I had to end up bending a 90 degree "bus stop" into the arm to shorten it. It should be pretty accurate as it drops very near to the lowest part of the tank. I already deleted a curse filled rant on how the gas cap doesn't lock on this tank either (thanks to the wacky inner neck on the fill hole). Out of time and also patience with everything else going on in my life a nice new Chinese race cap is already on it's way. Problem solved.

Not that it helps
 

I have a supposed 02 model and I didn't get the gauge upgrade and I am pretty sure the tank wasn't changed as well. ( Jap model). Never put 19l in. Just thought id post this up as some tank info. No weird stopper here just jam in n go.

Looking into possibly making a one off stock imitation.

Btw I work with metal so this might be worth your time as that tank looks like a pain and a spare is never bad to have. A light dent can be fixed by filling it up a ways with non ignitable liquid after drying it for a few days. I dont I just let em sit a day and put a burning rag near the cap ( Im stupid dont do that.) if it does not blow its probably safe. ( Again I wouldnt do it. I also paint with no mask.)
Nyways... attatch an air fitting to it and seal it up. Pressurize it. The tank should have a pressure rating somewhere on this great internet. it dont take much. and heat the dent gradually. The paint will burn but the dent should work out. Problem with that is the metal is weaker.

Option B. Dry the tank out as before and drill the welds. Split the tank and rub not hammer the dent out working from the edge in itll look a little wonky but when its close just sand the P!$$ out of it until close and use some lightweight filler for the lows.

Opt C for a nasty mc nasty. Split the tank at the welds as before heat and hammer the dent working outside in. it can look like it never happened. I have made fenders with nothing more than a metal hammer and a lump of round iron cold working.

Now you have a spare tank. or possibly a better one than the one from Grease.
Cant beat that with a sack of oranges now can ya?