Front Brake Rotor Problem
 

Wow it has been a while since I have posted anyhthing on here but my hawk has been awesome!!! Anyways here it goes. I recently, well not recently but late last summer I replaced my brake pads so I could get my plates on my bike. Since I replaced them I have noticed that my brakes seem to pulse. I have never had any motorcycle rotors warp on me before so I was wondering if there was something else that can cause this?? If so what should I do to make it go away? Any info would help.

Re: Front Brake Rotor Problem
 

I think you hit the nail on the head but it does seem weird the pulse came right after replacing the pads. I would find a friend with a dial indicator and check for runout. As far as I know you can't straighten motorcycle rotors and they're too thin to turn.

Re: Front Brake Rotor Problem
 

so if that is the case what is a good price for new rotors?

Re: Front Brake Rotor Problem
 

New OEM, $270 EACH
New Braking full floating rotor $260 each
New EBC Pro Lite Contour $206 each
New Standard EBC Pro Lite $180

USED anything,, buyer beware :roll:

You might want to check the carrier first before you replace the rotors. Most of the time it's the middle mounting part that gets bent and that's where the pulse comes from. If your just doing street riding you usually don't create enough heat to warp your rotors. Most of the time you can straighten the carrier to the point that you won't feel the pulse anymore.

Re: Front Brake Rotor Problem
 

Don't suppose you have the old pads still around? Might be worth putting them back in to see what happens.

Rotors can be straightened, I've seen a shop out here to it (also fixes bent forks without disassembly, so it must involve magic!) :)

I have two sets I'll be putting up on ebay soon (used, since changing wheels can't use them). They weren't going for much up there last time I checked since they aren't a popular size. You can buy many sets of used for the cost of a pair of new!

I also have a set of used rotors that I will be selling on Ebay. They are well-worn but straight.

Re: Front Brake Rotor Problem
 

What would cause the center carrier to bend?? I guess I will just have to pull them off the bike and check everything before I get new rotors.

Well the verdict is in!! I got a micrometer out and checked the rotors to see where and how much they were bent. Only the left rotor was bent and it was about .030 out of round. I managed to tap it back within .008 and I think I might be able to get it perfectly strait tonight when I have more time to work on it.

:cool: You probably just knocked into something with it. Did you happen to have it on a trailer with a chock? I only ask because I know someone who bent his that way.

No but i did park it at the bar the other night and when I came out the bars were truned opposite when I had parked it. Prob. just some idiot walking through the lot.

:shock: I had someone try and play a prank on me and they tried to move my VF1000F with the lock on. Long story short they dropped it and broke my clutch lever and put the front out of whack. :evil:

So I managed to get my rotor back to within .008 of being perfectly strait. I couldn't seem to get it all the way so I took my rotor off and went to my dad's shop to machine it. Hopefully I will be able to get it on the bike tomorrow and see if my handywork was good enough.

Re: Front Brake Rotor Problem
 

This post answers most of my questions. But just to sum up, it seems that a front-brake problem can be from a warped rotor or from a bent carrier. Ant it's possible to fix the problem by straightening the carrier if you have the right tools to check run-out/alignment.

It seems you really need to be able to check the runout precisely or you may think it's a rotor problem, get new ones, and still have the problem because of a bent carrier?

Can the rotors be resurfaced? Sounds like some folks think they're to thin.

What else might cause high speed (braking at 60mph or more) shuddering? Can it be something with the pads, seating on the rotor, or just dirty rotors?

After my "get-off" last fall I added Galfer SS lines and EBC pads while I had things apart. There isn't any visible damage to the fork or rotor but it seems like it could be easy to bend the carrier when you lay your bike down. I get some shuddering while braking at high speeds but not to the point where I feel control is a problem. At low speeds I don't feel it at all. Still, I'd rather not feel it at all.

Thanks in advance for any advice.

So after trying all of the above options I opted for the new rotors. I tried getting them strait with a mallot and also tried the resurfacing option and nither worked out. Just buy new it will save you a lot of headaches and trouble.

You arrived at the correct answer. They can't be straightened and they can't be turned. Points for trying though.

I know of 2 off hand that were straightened with no pulsation. I rode one personally and felt no pusation, so I think it's a matter of how badly it was messed up.

I know I'm chiming in late, but I had the same problem as described in the opening post. I changed the front pads and had a resulting pulse from the brakes. I put the stock pads back in and the pulse went away. Changing brake pads is really straignht forward, so I don't know what I could have done wrong... Anyway, I'm going to try the "problem pads" on my other VTR to see if the problem is in the pads. I guess the point is that changing the pads fixed the problem for me.

That seems very weird that pads would cause that kind of problem...

Yeah you're right... I'm baffled. It wasn't real pronounced... Not noticeable at <40 mph, noticeable at 60 mph, very noticeable at 100 mph... :(

Brake rotors develop a thin layer of pad material on them. This is really what gives you good initial bite and stopping power. If you change pads you should strip the old layer off the rotor using emery cloth or a gentle stripping wheel. This allows the new pads to build up a new layer on the rotors evenly and so that the material is the same on the entire surface. I'm having that problem on my 1000RR right now and need to strip. I bought the wheel, I just have to get off my ass now. :)

so more details please....strip the old layer? can this be done with the rotor on the wheel, or do you need to get at both sides, also sounds like a lot of work, is it truly ness? just curious... as I am about to replace my pads with new EBC pads...so I want them to work there best....tia

I guess you could do it with the rotor on the wheel - depends on if you can get to the insides.

"Necessary"? Well, a lot of people don't do it and never have problems, but those who have a problem like this, well, this is the most likely solution.

And?
 

Results? Was it the pads? Seems unlikely to me, but I'm hoping so cause I've got similar problems. An update would be appreciated.

when i was at an ama race i stopped at the honda truck and picked up a small convo with Al Ludington and he commented how they glass bead the rotors (media blasting, like sandblasting but finer material) to remove the brake material from the rotors... find a local machine shop with a media blaster and see how much they'll charge to do it... (a local guy did mine for $20) i went to dunlopads for street use and LOVED the performance... way better initial bite than any other pad i've tried.. (ebc, sbs, ferodo, galfer) and seemed to perform better in the than others when it was wet out..