Front brake issues
 

So I got my busted hawk's cooling issues fixed. After my first few text rides I noticed when stopping from high speeds the front end was shaking and shuddering pretty badly. So my first thing to do was check all the bolts in the front. All were tight, so now I'm thinking I may have a warped rotor. I'm thinking of buying a rotor and pad set from ebay.

My first question is does anyone have any experience with the Chinese rotors off ebay, and is there anything else I should check. I think the bike may have been setting for some time so of course I need to bleed and possibly rebuild the master. I've searched the forum for similar issues and found a few threads that speak of checking pins in the caliper, not sure what they were talking about. I don't have a lot of experience with bike but enough to figure things out with a little direction. I'm not really interested in dealing brakes. I'm coming from a crusier so the stopping performance of the stock system should be just fine for me for now. Any direction I can get from the experts here would be very helpful. Thanks.

And for those that will ask about what I did concerning the possible streetfighter direction I was thinking. I just zip tied the busted fairings and spray painted it flat black d or now. Attachment 21534

Get the front end up off the ground and spin the wheel and measure the disk run off and compare to specs in the Service Manual.

Also do the disk bobbins so the disks are floating.


Check brake caliper pistions and seals are doing what they're designed to do and not siezed in any way that could ruin & warp any replacement disks, and rebuild as required to get them back as new. As for Chinese disks, they are what you pay for em - I personally wouldn't touch 'em, as OEM or decent aftermarket (EBC) will last 30,000 miles or so.

What he said^^ :)

I plan to check all my bobbins and hopefully that'll fix it. If not I guess it's on to the next thing. Thanks a lot that video was very helpful, I don't have any experience with floating rotors, I'm learning. Thanks guys.

Sdustin a brake shudder is usually caused by disc that is not running true, so checking the bobbins are allowing the expected "float" is a useful first step. If that doesn't resolve the problem, then it is likely that either the disc or more likely the aluminium carrier has had a bit of a knock and bent slightly.

If you mount a dial indicator gauge off the fork leg and elevate the wheel so it can be spun, you can measure the run-out and see firstly which disc it is, and secondly whether it is the disc or the carrier that is bent. You should be able to measure the run-out around the disc and find where the high or low spot is, and then do the same with the carrier. If the disc and carrier share the same run-out pattern, then the carrier is out of whack. If the carrier is true but the disc is not, then buy a new disc.

If the disc is bent then it is time to get a new one, but if it is just the carrier then you can gently pry that back into alignment. Just apply the pry bar to the carrier only, not the disc! It is easiest to do the prying with the dial indicator in place and with the wheel mounted in the forks. YMMV but this has worked well for me.

Wicky, thanks for posting that video! I knew what floating rotors were, but had no idea that they needed routine maintenance. Makes a lot of sense now.

Tried the bobbin trick. It made things a little better but it's not right. And I'm pretty sure I can feel where the disk is messed up. I plan to get a dial indicator soon. One can never have too many tools. Cadbury where could someone but just the replacment disk?

I have no personal experience with aftermarket discs, if OEM are too pricey then I would go with EBC discs.

Thanks Wicky, good trick with the nut and bolt!

Definitely do a run out test first. A grease/grime spot can cause weird stuff like a wobble. You really don't need the dial indicator to spot a problem. If your front tire is up, hold a screwdriver against a fork leg and have it almost touch the rotor. Spin the wheel and see if the distance between rotor and driver stays equal. If it wobbles, your problem is noticed. If you need a #, then you can buy the dial indicator.

You seriously want to cheap out on the most vital thing, with the exception of it maybe being tied with tires, on the bike? There is a line to draw on being cheap, brakes should NOT be the place you're cheaping out. After having read multiple instances of the chinese brake levers causing front brake lockups, I wouldn't trust those let alone rotors.

Do yourself a favor: If you can't yet afford branded rotors, save your money until you can.

Yeah I'm going to get a set of ebc rotors, I've actually decided to park it till I can have it completely done. It's just my only bike and with spring here I'm dying to ride.

So now my plans are to install new rotors pads, and bleed front and back. New chain, manual ccts, new coolant over flow, oil change, new coolant hoses, and remover thermostat. Also I want to either get new fairings or make it a standard with gps speedometer, custom idiot lights and digital water temp gauge. I haven't decided on which direction to go. I'm unsure if I like the look of exposed radiators or not.

Attachment 21519

That's what mine looks like with exposed radiators. It's alright, but I personally think it could look better. USD forks, IMO, entirely change the look of the bike.

Remove the thermostat? Why.

Remove it cause I'm cheap and I'm pretty sure it's causing my cooling issues. And I can do without a heater, and I'm pretty sure it won't cause issues with coolant going through the carbs all the time.

The thermostat is easy to remove and test for correct function. When cold it should be closed, and at around 80C it should start to open. If you dunk it in a pot of water on a stove and bring that to the boil, you will be able to observe the operation.

thanks i knew about how to test it and plan to do that, one question will i have to remove the carbs to get the thermostat housing out? i think there maybe a coolant leak from either a house or the housing it self, i cant see excatly where its leaking but it only leaks after its warmed up and then shut off

i plan to replace all the hoses anyway with a kit of silicon hoses

You do know how much those silicone hoses cost, right? I looked at that option as well, but then I saw the cost. I ended up ordering all brand new stock hoses from Partzilla, which was much cheaper.

Ebay 72 bucks


1997 2006 Honda VTR 1000 F Firestorm Radiator Coolant Hose Kits Black | eBay

i now notice that kit doesnt come with the hoses attached to the thremostat housing though

Yes you can get the thermostat out without taking the carbs off, but if you plan on getting to the hoses leading to the thermostat then you will need the carbs off for that. It is possible to remove the airbox then loosen the carb clamps, pop the carbs off the motor and swing them out of the way without pulling off the water hoses and throttle cables.

thanks, i probably need to pull the carbs anyway it smells like it maybe running rich so checking the jets wouldnt hurt i have no idea what the PO did before me, i do know they had the carbs off and apart cause the throttle return springs were not tight enough to make the throttle snap back.

Oh, you were talking about China made, no-name parts. I thought you were talking about well known Samco hoses.
HON 43 Fit Honda VTR 1000 F Firestorm SC36 1997 2006 Samco Silicon Rad Hoses | eBay

If you end up getting the China parts, maybe write a review here. I know several others would be interested in how those hoses work out for you.

Ok I will. I was rightfully talked out of china made brakes but a busted hose wouldnt be as great an issue as broke rotors. Lol. So I think ill be ok with cheap hoses. Silicon is silicon. As long as they are made consistent