ebay mosfet R/R's
 

so theres lots of R/R's on ebay that are brand new. im thinking this is a good choice since i never know how many miles are on a used on or how it was treated etc...

but since i cant seem to see any "FH" markings nor any markings at all on them. are they truely mosfet R/R's?

ive been looking at this list form the famous Mosfet thread.

so for example theres "brand new" R/R's at a reasonable price on there for a 2007 yamaha R1. but i dont wanna waste money on a cheap replacemnt for a non mosfet R/R.

im thinking that since the reason we all switch to Mosfet R/R's is because of reliablity, so maybe the milage on a "used" one isnt a big deal.

Used, known fitting Mosfet R/R' and be done with it.

Get some plugs from one of the places already mentioned, wire it up and forget about it.

After consulting that same R/R thread, I bought a ZX10 RR... 2005 or newer is good.
It seemed like an easy target to hit with an ebay search.
I got a 2005 and still made sure I could read the FH designation.

Here's one now. $40 and free shipping. No grinding required.

http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/NDAwWDQwMA...S~pk4/$_12.JPG

thanks i ended up buying a used 2006 zx-14r R/R.
how did you connect it? or anyone for that matter? i hear about eastern beaver connectors but i dont understand what connectors i need?
or how else can i do it without buying expensive connectors?

3P250WP-QLW Female Connector SET $18.62
R/R Connectors

Get an extra pin or two... it's only a few pennies tossed if you don't need them, but if mis crimp one and need a do over, you'll be happy to have a spare pin

There is also this place to source the connector from
http://roadstercycle.com/

thanks, is that all i need? im reading in the website about bypassing fuses aand going straight to the battery... is that necessary?

I choose to do it that way on all my bikes, and those I install R/R or new R/R wiring on.

One of the limiting parts of the system is the crappy factory wiring that was marginal when installed, and worse after a bunch of years.

I run a new 12ga Ancor Marine Grade Electrical Primary Tinned wire from the R/R to the NEG and POS battery terminal direct.

Why Marine grade ? Because each wire strand is individually tinned to better resist corrosion and it uses fine strand wire for better flexibility and resistance to fatigue from vibration, and comes with a very good sheathing (insulation) resistant to heat and chemicals.

Why no fuse? Because it is an extra resistance point, entry point for moisture , and another point of failure.. coupled with I've never had an issue doing it this way in dozens of years.

I do put a piece of heat shrink tube over each wire, and then over both wires for extra abrasion resistance.. and use insulated cable clamps along the wire route to secure the wires and make sure they are not loose and free to move around with wind and vibration which might cause the sheath to be worn though.


If you're concerned with a dead short..... then install an inline fuse close to the battery, use a very high quality sealed fuse holder and an ATO style 30 amp fuse... No crimp on connectors for this, good solder joint and heat shrink tubing (preferable adhesive lined, SUMITUBE or 3M) for a water proof connection.

Here's a link to a Shindengen FH020A Mosfet R/R on Ebay.
Shindengen MOSFET FH020AA Regulator Rectifier Kit Replaces FH012AA | eBay

Hey, where can I find one of these? I'm pretty happy with my wife, but I try to be open-minded about mods and upgrades.

Damn you auto correct

Lol

DAMMIT! That was just a typo?!?

I know right... Way to disappoint.. No Fine wife that is flexible and able to withstand fatigue :mad:

Sorry about the disappointment :p

Before I did my wiring upgrade I found some sites that had the type of wire I was looking for.
There are other sites that have this type of wire, here are a couple. Lifetime supply Boat Wiring Marine Grade Wire

Or smaller quantities Motorsport Wiring - Corsa Technic

I ordered one from jack@roadstercycle.com Shindengen FH020AA Mosfet Regulator/Rectifier check out his web page. Was easy to hook up he sent good directions. works great charges 14.5 V

I cheaped out on my second bike bought this one.

1 of Regulator Rectifier for CBR 600 900 RR VFRVTR Hornet [ASIN: B00BH0GE02]
from HWYDO - Amazon Marketplace
I think it is working not 100% only charges at 12.8 V (working out some other issue so havent had it on a long enough ride to verify )

I connected it the simple way. I cut off all the old connectors, then put spade connectors on each of the 5 wires. I put heat-shrink tubing over the connections, and then a larger piece over the whole spade connector, so it's fully insulated except for the end that plugs into the R/R.

The 3 yellow wires go in any order on the side with 3 connectors.
The other two wires go into the other side... IIRC, the hot wire goes on the inside and ground on the outside.

I hafta do my VFR very soon. I'll take lots of pictures. It's much simpler than it seems when reading it online.

like this? i stole this picture from another thread but my R/R is arriving today. i am also gonna use Spade connectors as i didnt wanna pay an extra $30 for connectors. ill do a good job with lots of heat shrink though.

Attachment 22848

While the spade connectors can be made to work,, you end up with the same issue the OEM set up has... It's not sealed and you have a assembly that is open and susceptible to the elements, corrosion..

All that work and effort to install a good replacment R/R and the wiring...only to take a step backwards in reliability....seems counter intuitive.. but if it works for your needs, no harm no foul.

Yes and no... The OEM setup was not MOSFET and had no heat sink.

While it's good to go the whole "industrial strength" route, for me it was more about getting it done and back on the bike.

well the the downside to the stock R/R is in its shunt based system, overheating, burning out without warning...

my dads an electrician so i grew up learning how to solder, use connectors, wire things, etc...

really you can use heat shrink among a couple other water proofing techniques to get just as a reliable sealed connection as paying for connectors IMO.

i will admit though the upside to buying the proper connectors is that you can easily remove them and just plug them back in should you need to. but in all the time ive had the hawk, the only time ive ever unplugged the R/R was when i replaced it with an ungraded, non-mosfet R/R. so im not to worried about not being able to unplug and plug it in easily.

YES, all correct :D

Yes you can waterproof the wire to the terminal... and with a series of about 5 different sizes and pieces of adhesive lined heat shrink tube you could bastardize and "waterproof" a group of wires to the body of the R/R.. but what a colossal mess that would be.

Bottom line,,,, you bet, simple crimp on spade connectors will work..and for sure you're no worse off the the crappy non sealed Honda plug the bike came with.

well my ZX-14 FH010BA R/R is finally installed.
feels good to have a MOSFET finally. now i just gotta get the APE CCT's that are in the mail installed and ill finally be worry free.

ive put to much blood, sweat, and tears into my VTR now to have anything happen to her. oh and money. too much money!

Yeah, get those CCTs done right away... my S-Hawk was coming back from an early grave in a dusty garage after not running for 5 years, and I was nervous even to test-start it and run it for a minute or two. I didn't want to lose all the progress I had made in resurrecting it.

well what you said Erik slowly ate away at me until finally i ordered the connectors from eastern beaver.

i dont wanna have a false sense of piece of mind and then bam! fried R/R because of rain/moisture

dont forget heat!!!!

I fried an R/R on the way to ME from MA... 90 degrees and sunny and I got to the NH liquer store on the highway, stopped there for some booze for vaca and all I could smell was sulfer... popped the seat off and see a bulging and smoking battery :eek:

and now... no tach

that was a couple years ago and thats on my to-do list

are you talking about a non-mosfet R/R that fried from heat? my old R/R used to get HOT!!!

the new mosfet R/R doesnt even hardly get warm. ive read MOSFET's should never fail because of heat.

non-mosfet aftermarket with heat fins... ive had 2 non mosfets fail on me in the past 8 years.

the first time i wasnt aware of the whole mosfet/non-mosfet thing so I just got an aftermarket one with heat fins thinking it would help...

and that one failed in NH(out of state) so I had to have it towed to a local garage and they replaced it with an OEM part and thats what im running now...

Ill get around to getting a mosfet hopefully this year

like i said, this ate at me until i ordered the eastern beaver connectors...

Attachment 22788

Happy to see my corrosive personality did some good :D

And not to be a dick, and or cause you to loose any more sleep...... but you installed the silicone wire seals backwards.
https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...1&d=1396703152

Should be like this

https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...1&d=1396702967
https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...1&d=1396703015
https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...1&d=1396703043

your killing me... :mad:

i looked at this picture from the R1/R6 mosfet swap in the knowledge base

Attachment 22787