dynojet kit removal
 

Since I just ordered my new GPR high mount exhaust, and Thumb screws from Jackflash, I figured now is as good of time as any to rejet again.

I am going to remove my Dynojet kit and use hawks carb set up. I just want to make sure before I order all the parts needed that I have them correct.


CARBURETOR COMPONENT PARTS

please correct me if I am wrong, but I should need
#7 x 2
#12 x 2
#24 x 2
#37 (175) front?
#37 (178) rear?


Is there anything I am forgetting?

NOT #7 x2 (sorry to shout!!)

#7 x1
#3 x1

The needles are different for the front and rear cylinder.


You may have to fill a hole in the slides. The DJ kit requires you to drill an extra air hole. It can be filled with epoxy
:D

Thank you for this, I have been wanting to do this as well!

Hmm there seems to be a missing item in that list

I cannot find item 37 the 180 version of it

They have

36 99101-GHB-1720 JET (#172)

37 99101-GHB-1750 JET (#175)

37 99101-GHB-1780 JET (#178)

38 99103-MT2-0450 JET (#45)

39 99107-MBB-1200 JET (#120)

Good call on the needles I didnt even see that.

As for jet size, Is it 175 front 178 rear? I cant seem to find that in hawks carb set up thread.

Changed my mistake, sorry I had the Dynojet kit on the brain.

Yes mate 175 front, 178 rear and 48 pilots in each one, Standard needles with a some shims and you need to block a bleed hole in the front slide if running standard 1 short and 1 long V stacks. You may find that 45 pilots will work better, you wont know until you try and depending on how rich you go with the needles.

(:-})

Aren't the slides drilled with the Dynojet kits?

Good point they may be, in which case then there will be two to block on the front and one on the rear if doing hawks setup. Also the diaphragm springs may be different. You guys get the springs with your Dynojet kits, we dont over here for some peculiar reason. You also get a bigger selection of mains.

(:-})

Honestly, you might want to rethink your approach here. I do not suggest using a carb setup that someone else has come up with - that will almost certainly run you into problems. It's just like anything else: you need to understand what you've got and adjust as needed to correct. If your bike is rich and a thread on this forum says to make it richer, how is that correct? Set YOUR carbs so they run the best on YOUR engine that operates in YOUR geographic location. There is only one of YOUR bike!

Jamie is correct!


I would mount up the new exhaust and see how she runs set up as is, then make your corrections.


You never know but she may run great as is with the new exhaust!


SIRR1

I will for sure mount the pipes before going back into the carbs

Just trying to make sure if I do set a base line from hawks set up that I have an idea of the parts I will need.


I can tell you I'm rich at idle up to about 2500, good from there till about 4500 or so, then I have a flat spot (lean) up to about 6000, and from there she pulls till redline. My last dyno run had a perfect torque curve, and peaked at 109hp to the wheel, but on the street and track it's not perfect, and it annoys me.

But with that being said I also ordered a set of thumb screws that will make my fine tuning less of a pain.

Also, would taking the pilots up to 48's help my lean condition in the mid range? I have had the factory 45's installed durring all of the tuning processes.

48 pilots will not help with midrange. Pilot jets work in conjunction with the Fuel mixture screws. The pilot circuit is for idle and lower down revs/small throttle opening only. Factory Pro don't make pilot jets. Midrange will be your needles, so this is where you want to start looking. The dynojet extra slide hole often makes these bikes rich or at least difficult to tune.

And I agreee with Jamie to some degreee, though we listen to someone else's settings when following dynojet, Factory pro or even the Honda manual's instructions LOL The best thing you can do is learn to understand the Carbs yourself and how each circuit works and affects one another.

Just rememberer that these carbs are very sensitive to changes and not the easiest to get spot on. I'm quite happy with the Factory pro kit, especially as they use Keihin mains. I'm not a fan of dynojets kits on these bikes especially with the exrta slide hole and springs that take the carbs so far away from standard that it makes things worse on a standard bike IMO. If you have a race bike then go it.

(:-})

Idle circuit flows all the time. It has no way to be shut off at any range so will have an effect at all throttle openings. Not a major one at full throttle but it is there.

Thumb screws are great.

Dont forget to check each cylinder for condition. Treat it as 2 singles. eg rear could be very rich and front could be fine.

Well if you want to be pedantic, maybe I didn't explain that clearly enough. I didn't say it shuts off completely, It actually tapers off but is mainly for the control of the idle circuit, low rpm/small throttle openings, hence the reason that some manufactures call them an idle jet rather than pilot. If you put a larger pilot jet in then you may find you need to lean off the needles a touch because of this taper.

A little also trickles through to the mains, but a heck of lot less than down the other end. The same for the mains though they dont taper right through all the way. Install different mains and this has an effect on the higher end of the spectrum (cross over point) on needle position. It's all cause and effect and finding an even balance throughout.

(:-})

I installed a Dynojet kit here in Australia and drilled the slides as per the instructions and I knew straight away that things were not right so I put a set of standard slides in and hey presto things were good .

I agree that what suits some doesn't suit others.

These carbs are finicky to the extreme eh!!!

What it does show is that most adjustments on carbs have an effect on other areas.

I like this and use it a lot. CV Carb Tuning Procedures

Somethings like bowl fuel level many dont bother with. But it is important. Not started on this yet with the Hawk but will over the next couple of weeks.

Sailor, here's a graph to help you understand our CV carbs

http://www.iwt.com.au/images/effects3.gif

Well both of those charts are helpful. I suppose once I get the new pipes in and mixture screws, I will fiddle with my settings a little more to get them right.


Thanks guys!