Dashboard dimming with blinkers- should I be worried?
 

Hello,

I've bought a 2001 VTR 1000F last week. I did about 150km so far, and last night I noticed that the dash lights are dimming with the turn signals blinking. Is that normal? It also does that with the engine turned off. Could you give me any tips for checking before I start measuring the resistances of every single wire?

Resting voltage is 12,38 (IMO normal for after city driving), and the rectifier sh693-12. I'll check the running voltage as soon as possible (can't do that at home due to the exhaust noise).

Thanks!

Dashboard Dimming
 

If it was my bike, I would start with the basics. Check the battery connections. Was the bike standing for a long time before it was sold. Possible bad battery. Check the connection of the ground at the Engine. Check all the additional grounds that go to the frame. There is one on the left hand side about 1/2 way down on the frame. To me it sounds like a bad ground. Good luck.

You should be concerned. It should not do that. I agree possible bad ground. But also poss bad battery which is likely cased by failing regulator rectifier.
Test voltage at battery terminals both with bike off and running, then reving a bit. Report findings. The next step is getting stranded in the worst possible area far from home. Don't ask how I know.

Thanks for the replies!

I just put another fully charged (and as far as I know fully functional) battery and it did the same (engine off), so unless I've got 2 bad batteries, it's not the battery.

Also connected a few alligator clip wires from the mid frame-left side ground directly to the battery negative with no change in the dimming.

Where exactly is the engine ground? Any other ground points or connectors to check for oxidation/interruption?

What about one of the turn signals having a short to ground. Try unplugging them and plugging them one by one. to see which one causes the dimming.

Both sides make the dimming. I could however try them one by one, and ground each directly to the battery negative if you think it'd help. And to reach the turn signals connectors I assume faring removal is a must, right?

Depends on your fairing. They each have their own plugs either in the tail section or in the front fairing where only the inner panels need be removed.
Sounds like the dash ground is suspect. That plug is behind the dash.

I cleaned (240 grit sandpaper) and greased (using "battery terminal paste") the battery + and - terminals, and the engine to battery ground. It had little to no effect.

Then I did some more testing:
-the dimming is everywhere and caused by anything- not only the turn lights dimming the dash, but also the stop light dims the headlight, etc.
-removed each fuse one by one- there is still dimming. e.g: with the turn signal fuse off, the high beam still dims the tail light
-then, just to be 100% sure it's not the battery ground cable, I put a jumper wire (around 2x thicker than the existing cable) from the battery to the engine and frame ground- no effect

Any other ideas?

Did you do the voltage tests I mentioned in my 1st post?

The voltage is dropping below nominal which is causing the dimmed lights when the slightest additional (from quiescent) load is applied. You haven't mentioned, but I presume all your testing is done with the bike running, at least at idle speed. From the testing you've done/reported, it sounds like it's not a battery issue.

'Resting voltage' means": Bike not running...?

What is the voltage reading at the battery at 3K RPMs, or so? See: smokinjoe's first post. The suspect at this point is your regulator*, seems like.

*E. Marquez, on this forum, sells a killer R/R kit. I have one on my bike and I (along with many others) can recommend it.

Alan

All measurements were done with the engine off. With the exhaust making windows vibrate, the old farts will call the police (and possibly key my car the next day as a bonus) if I start revving the bike. As soon as I can I'll go to a supermarket parking lot and measure the voltage at various RPM. However, the dimming was also present while driving, that's when I noticed it first.

Resting voltage= engine off, at least 30 min after use or charge

Until I measure the voltage with the bike running, could anyone please check if their bike dims the lights with the engine off?

So meaning you are "complaining" about dash dimming while the bike is off/not running? That's what this whole thread is about?
Are you the younger brother of a forum member who isn't allowed on the bike but found his key and is turning it on & posting up on here? (hehe).

The bike running at idle then 3k is what you need. Til that you are spinning your wheels or treading water, whichever analogy you prefer. Like a rocking chair, you got something to do but its not getting you anywhere.

No it wont if the RR, Stator and battery are working.

Measure the voltage, engine on, and at / above 3K
go take it fro a ride down the block if you have to..
If you find the charge voltage low that is the issue.
Then its why..

Likely bad RR or RR wiring.. Install a MOSFET RR and new wiring, done, go ride.

@ smokinjoe73 now please don't tell my brother
@ E.Marquez thanks, today I've ordered one FH020AA, allegedly of a 2013 R1200GS, and a connector kit.

The dimming was also happening while driving, but tomorrow I'll do the measurements. Hopefully the Motorcycling Gods will let me ride for ~15 more hours before anything failing and leaving me stranded, as I've already got a little trip planned on Friday and Sunday.

the 2013 R1200G did come with a FH020AA RR, so just make sure what your getting is genuine SHINDENGEN. It should have an aluminum back that fits well, no gaps and not looking like it was stick on as an after thought.
It should have the markings like this pic https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.sup...0e1be6a29a.jpg

Here it how it looks like:
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.sup...ed9f8d0607.jpg
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.sup...2ccd91e94f.jpg
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.sup...2b4a48153a.jpg


After seeing that there are fakes (new Chinese FH020AA costing 40$ while a new tourmax rebranded is ~170$), I did search for some comparison photos. Also, the pins from the fake ones seem thinner, not perfectly aligned, and not evenly colored. Now please tell me I got the good stuff.

+ the seller is reputable with 100%/+10000 feedback. However after getting a fake usb memory (finally refunded, but still...) with the controller fooling the PC that the stick had 32 times more capacity than what it really had, I'd not bet on anything that came from ebay.

Looks good from the pics :thumbsup:

Good you are making progress, but don't go for a ride and def not a trip on a failing RR. Once its gone it will fry your battery at least and it wont be jumpable and you'll be stranded.

And your brother will be pissed.......

Here is a video- sorry for the shaking: https://streamable.com/h2qlp
tl;dr: idle 14,1-14,4, 2000 to 9000rpm 13,35-13,8
And turning the headlight makes it drop 0,3-0,4V (the dimming), then in ~1s the voltage gets right back where it were.

Nothing wrong with that voltage....
Would rather see it steady at 13.8-14.2 but its not low or languorously high
So if your getting dimming lights, its a ground issue, or power issue to those items... Check grounds, check voltage at the items dimming

UPDATE:
For anyone finding this thread on google: I did change the rectifier and it turns out the old one melted the plug a bit. Now the voltage is 14.04 to 14.12V on idle and 14.18 to 14.22V from 2000rpm to redline, however there is still some dimming.

More detail on the rectifier thread: https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...e6/#post407041

Probably at some point I'll check the resistance between the light sockets and ground/power cables...