Clutch Slave/Push rod
 

Changed front sprocket and have no pressure on clutch lever after I put everything back together.

Bled the clutch and got some pressure back but with the bike on a rear stand and in gear, I can't spin the wheel when I pull the lever clutch in. Clutch is not disengaging.

Took the slave off and it looks like I have a leak, so I will clean and replace the seal. While I was their I tried to push the clutch rod in by hand to see if I could spin the wheel. Couldn't even move it 0.00001 mm. Is that normal? The rod came out a little bit when I did the sprocket change. Could I have messed something up on the other side? and that caused the seal on the slave to go bad?? If the rod won't move it put to much pressure on the slave and blew the seal??

Before you pulled the cover, did you zip tie the clutch lever tight to the grip?

No. Looks like I made an error. I just double checked the manual..says keep the lever in when removing the slave. oops. The piston prob came out...but I think It had a leak before I removed it. The paint on the bottom of the sprocket cover was bubbled before I even started.

Now what?

I picked up a steel clutch line since I'm going to have to bleed the system again after I change the slave seal. Was thinking I could use a C-clamp to hold the piston in and make bleeding easier?

What happens is the piston move forward and the level of fluid in the master drops low enough to suck a bunch of air into the system.

Bleeding the system should fix the issue

I swapped out to a steel clutch line.

Been bleeding all morning and the pressure seems better now but clutch still won't disengage. I'll keep bleeding.

One thing that is bugging me. When I had the slave off I tried to push the clutch rod myself to see if I could spin the back wheel while the bike is in gear. I could not move the rod at all. Is that normal?

Clutch springs to strong to press in by hand?

Yes.

Was away for 3 weeks....finally got the clutch working good.
Further inspection showed the PO decided to store ketchup in the master and slave cylinders. I went with the nuclear option: Rebuilt the master, cleaned/polished the slave (new seal) and replace stock line with SS line.

Bought a banjo bolt with a built in bleeder screw... worked great for getting the air bubbles out near the master cylinder.

Clutch is engaging and disengaging like it should now.

Where did you get that banjo if I may ask

www.PegasusAutoRacing.com

Part # 3242-022 Single Banjo Bolt with Bleed Screw, 10mm x 1.25 Thread

$14 for the part (not bad)....but they charged another $10 for shipping which didn't seem fair for such a small item. $24 total.

If anyone else wants those bleaders, Pegasus is literally less than five minutes from my townhouse. Drop me a PM and I can help you out.