Clutch not Working after Slave Removal - Yes I tried bleeding
 

I had the slave off this winter to modify the sprocket cover... I warmed it up today to go for the first ride of the year, and the clutch lever pulled all the way to the grip with no resistance.

I tried bleeding the clutch like you would bleed brakes (one person on the lever holding it shut while I cracked the bleeder loose for a second then tightened the bleeder back). We worked on that for about 7 or 8 minutes, but the fluid wasn't going down in the reservoir...

Should we have worked on it longer? Should we lean the bike over to the right to see if any air bubbles come up into the reservoir?


I missed my ride today, so I'm very sad.... :(:(

James

Get a vaccuum bleeder and try again.

I've had similar issues doing brakes on the YZF before. Bleed the master at the banjo, then bleed the line at the slave banjo, then bleed at the bleed nipple has always solved it for me

You can get a stubborn bubble in the master that wont go away unless you bleed the master

Edit:
There is also the voodoo trick to bleeding the master, put a rubber band on the lever that will hold it about half way so that the air can float up into the reservoir. It shouldn't work, but for some reason it does on the YZF's brakes

My wife and i bled it, and during the bleeding process i leaned the bike over to the right, and hit the bars against the fork stops a couple times, then pulled in the clutch lever, and saw an air bubble come up! So i kept doing that for a while and the resistance came back... I guess if nothing else i have new fluid in there :)

So, i took a ride to the store, and bought my wife some new shoes for helping me :) i put them in my trunk, one of my favorite things about late 90's era bikes :):)

Thanks for encouraging me to bleed it again!

James

Like or not, there is air or crud in the line, slave cylinder, master cylinder.

If you have disassembled the master and slave, cleaned reassembled, filled with fluid, and still have mush or no clutch action... there is air.

Bleed the fittings, change the angle of the bike so the highest point is the place your bleeding from. Change the angle of the master cylinder so the return port in the reservoir is the highest point and air bubbles can rise to it.... squeeze the clutch lever and release quickly.... watch the air trapped in the system come out the return port in the reservoir :p

Thats what i did. Its fixed now :)

I went through half a bottle of dot4, so its thoroughly bled and new fluid color is coming out of the slave.

The problem was air trapped in the master cylinder.

James

No problem.. thanks for encouraging me to PVLIR :lol:

Lol...

James

I wanted to update this with the solution.


The bike sat all winter on the sidestand, then I had the clutch slave off for a few weeks so I could mod the sprocket cover. Air entered the slave, and made its way up to the master cylinder area.


My wife and I bled it for about 10 minutes, but nothing was happening. So I started thinking there may be an air pocket somewhere.


Solution: I leaned the bike over to the right (opposite of the side stand lean), and knocked the bars back and forth from steering stop to steering stop. Then I pulled in the clutch lever and a little air bubble appeared and rose to the top of the reservoir!


I did that about ten times, and the resistance came back, and the line was bled :)


I guess the good news that I have new fluid in it.




James

A Master Honda Mechanic and good friend at the local Honda shop showed me how to bleed the hydraulic brake and clutch lines a long time ago and it's really simple.


With the bike on a rear stand and the bars pointing straight ahead remove brake cap and diaphragm then suck out the fluid using a turkey baster or large syringe and dispose of this fluid.


Now with an empty brake fluid reservoir turn the bars to the full left lock position.


This should put the right handle bar at it's highest position.


Now add enough fluid to cover the reservoir intake holes and fill it about 1/2 way full.


With the drain fitting closed and tight on the calipers move the brake lever in and out about only 1/4 of a full pull in, do this several times making sure the reservoir does not run dry.


After a few times of topping off the fluid you will feel the brake lever build up pressure then stop for 20 minutes letting the remaining air in the line works it's way up to the M/C then repeat the lever actions one or two more times forcing the last of the air out of the line and your done.


Top off the fluid and push the rubber diaphragm back into it's compressed position and replace the m/c cap and your ready to go!


The first time you do this successfully your going to go oh crap that was way to easy.


SIRR1