Choke knob repair?
Yep, another choke knob that doesnt stay out like it is supposed to. The tension adj collar is as tight as it will go and still wont say out. I was thinking about putting a rubber behind tension collar to add some friction to choke knob shaft. Try something like that first. Replacing cable is not an option..too much of a hassle. Anybody have any other ideas or found a solution to fix other than new cable?
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Replacing cable is not an option |
I know how to replace cable, just don't want to go thru all the trouble to do so. just seeing if anyone found a quick fix for it. My idea should work, just seeing if anyone has come up with something before I try experimenting.
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I unscrewed tensioner and put a small rubber o ring behind it. Works good as new now...took longer to find an o ring that would fit, than to fix..FYI for anyone having same issue
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Same as Tampa, o ring works!
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Glad I could help..another choke cable tidbit..If for any reason you have to remove your carbs, disconnect your choke cable, remove bracket and pull cable along with carbs. Much easier to remove/install elbow fittings and you can verify function of choke before you install on bike, and if it fails to function right after installation....check your work.
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Maybe what you don't want to hear but about 4 weeks ago, I stopped using that POS choke knob. My knob is so sensitive anyways for the sweet spot to start my bike. You have to pull it out just enough but NOT TOO MUCH...lol. And when its cold outside, you can just about forget about using my choke knob. Mine also has lost friction and can't even hold a LITTLE pull on it without going back in some.
What I do is simple and its not hard to do everytime I cold start my bike and that is................................................ ...... Leave the friggen choke in and simply turn my idol screw about half to three quarters of a turn to raise idle. When the bike is warm, I simply turn it back down till the needle hits the 1100-1200 mark and off I go. Turning the idle screw up about half to 3/4 of a turn on my bike is about 1600 rpm or so. |
The last thing you want is a sensitive knob eh!
Also great tip about the choke cable as I have suffered from the broken P.O.S plastic elbow breaking. Caused all sorts of drama when both elbows cracked and bike ran like s it! Happened when I put the Dynojet kit in and boy was I disappointed that I couldn't ride my bike. I have since removed the carbs a couple of times and always leave the choke cable attached! |
Originally Posted by Tofazfou
(Post 369177)
Maybe what you don't want to hear but about 4 weeks ago, I stopped using that POS choke knob. My knob is so sensitive anyways for the sweet spot to start my bike. You have to pull it out just enough but NOT TOO MUCH...lol. And when its cold outside, you can just about forget about using my choke knob. Mine also has lost friction and can't even hold a LITTLE pull on it without going back in some.
What I do is simple and its not hard to do everytime I cold start my bike and that is................................................ ...... Leave the friggen choke in and simply turn my idol screw about half to three quarters of a turn to raise idle. When the bike is warm, I simply turn it back down till the needle hits the 1100-1200 mark and off I go. Turning the idle screw up about half to 3/4 of a turn on my bike is about 1600 rpm or so. |
hey I get it. At some point I will try the oring mod as I have a million of em laying around anyways thanks to all my air guns.
I guess for me, I don't ride my bike everyday. Only on weekends so i'm not on it a lot like probably many folks are. Its just not that big of a deal for me to turn the idol knob. My tensioner simply wore out like many of you. So i'll get around to oringing the knob one day. Just another thing to fiddle with on this bike.....lol |
I don't have that much trouble with mine. Tensioner is likewise useless. I just suit up, hold the knob out by putting my finger in the way, start it and hold it like that for 15-30 seconds. After that it's easy to keep running by blipping the throttle a bit. Then I roll off, and ride nice and easy for a while. No drama. Guess it helps I'm used to old two-stroke race bikes that were jetted so fat they wouldn't idle, lol.
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Faulty chokes are more embarrassing than anything else. How cool do you look, when your buddies riding fi bikes have long since left you standing in the parking lot with you holding your knob! just my 2 cents. lol
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I hold my knob with pride!
Then I blow past them in the corners! :) |
Originally Posted by rz_racer_69
(Post 369235)
I don't have that much trouble with mine. Tensioner is likewise useless. I just suit up, hold the knob out by putting my finger in the way, start it and hold it like that for 15-30 seconds. After that it's easy to keep running by blipping the throttle a bit. Then I roll off, and ride nice and easy for a while. No drama. Guess it helps I'm used to old two-stroke race bikes that were jetted so fat they wouldn't idle, lol.
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One nice aspect of having a "self-retracting" choke (I prefer that over "defective"), I don't have to worry about riding around with my choke on when it is no longer desired, lol. I always thought it was a cool feature. :)
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I moved mine to the handlebar a long time ago. Thanks to an Inderocker thread, then it can retract whenever.
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Originally Posted by rz_racer_69
(Post 369255)
One nice aspect of having a "self-retracting" choke (I prefer that over "defective"), I don't have to worry about riding around with my choke on when it is no longer desired, lol. I always thought it was a cool feature. :)
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Originally Posted by VTR1000F
(Post 369784)
"Feature"? Do you write software for a living?
Now I'm an IT administrator. |
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