Checked my air filter for the first time today... is this right? (pic)
 

I got my SH a few weeks ago and finally got around to checking the air filter. When I saw that the element was red I thought it was a K&N at first but then saw the "Honda PP-MD30" on it. I assume that's a stock filter right? Either way it's pretty nasty. Really black and grimey on the tips of the paper and when you pull it open its ok in some spots but there's big hunks of bugs and leaves and dirt/grime. What kinda worried me was that there was a little puddle of oil in the box. Maybe like less than a thimble full. Wasn't sure if that was just part of a PCV system doing its job or if ANY oil is a problem.

Here's pics attached

Looks like an OEM one to me

On the back side pic you can see a weird splatter mark on it, that's oil.. so i guess that's where it's coming from.

The filter looks pretty nasty right? Like i need to go ahead and order one I guess?

Looks like normal stuff. The filter is dirty. That's why you have a filter.
Oil in the airbox is due to crankcase ventilation, as you surmised.

Put a new filter in it and go ride!

Thanks... now my problem is finding the filter. Just called the closest Honda dealer (1 hour away, I live in the boonies) and he said he didn't have it and no dealer in TN, according to his PC, has it. So guess I'll be ordering it an waiting.

Definitely wanting just a stock one after reading about carb issues with a K&N.

There's a few cheap "OEM" filters on ebay and amazon.com... I got an emgo for like $18.00 shipped.

I got an EMGO for one of my older bikes before and it seemed to work ok. I'm tempted to go cheap and get an EMGO but the last time I got one for my 79 Yamaha XS1100 it was a little out of spec (like1/4" too big on the lip) and I barely got the thing in the airbox. May not be the same with the SH but I think I'll just got with the $45 OEM to be safe.

I just wish I could pick one up today.. I hate ordering and waiting on stuff but I've called every dealership within 2 hours of me and no one stocks it.

Just gave up on finding on in store and ordered one from Partzilla for $43+7 shipping. They're supposed to be one state away and ship Priority Mail so hopefully I'll have it at the first of the week. The bike runs good but its my first Vtwin so I'm not sure if the lopey jumpy idle is normal or if the air filter was making it worse. After seeing the filter I know it needed to be replaced regardless. Bike has 24,000 miles and I wouldn't be surprised if it wasn't the stock air filter.

What's wrong with the K&N filters? I just bought my bike, the PO said it had one in it but I haven't checked yet...

Did you change to manual cam chain tensioners yet?

Your filter doesn't look that bad. I'd say "run it". Put a new one in, when you get a chance.

I'm not totally sure but I thought I've read that the K&N usually, not always, requires the carbs to be adjusted or it doesn't run right and I don't want to mess with the carbs since they seem to be set pretty good right now.

Nope, it looms in the back of my head, eating away, like an ignored medical bill in collections. I really plan on doing it, maybe in winter.

The one I ordered from Partzilla, who is in GA so I figured it'd be here like Monday, I just now found out won't even SHIP until July 3rd and it'll take a few days to get here. Because apparently Partzilla doesn't stock it, they just order it from the manufacturer and then ship it out to me so that kinda sucks.

So it's on its way but I'm not going to quit riding in the mean time or anything.

Ignoring the CCT is not like ignoring a med bill coll. Is more like ignoring a timer on a time bomb.... After you get the manual CCT dont forget to get them adjusted once in a while. I didnt do mine and the engine granaded itself at less than 15k miles. Now my 2002 is collecting dust in my garage after running better and faster than a 2012 R6.


Jon

You mean you didn't adjust them and it grenaded itself or you didn't replace the CCTs at all and that happened?

I know I really need to do them but after glancing over the guides online and since I don't have a garage (would just be working out in a gravel driveway) I really dread it. But blowing up the motor in the bike would be devastating for me because I couldn't really even afford the bike, let alone fixing the motor.

edit: I was just reading the write up and it really doesn't seem as bad as I was thinking. I thought you had to like take the whole front fairing off with a lot of other stuff. I've actually replaced a CCT on my other bike but it took about 15 min as I just had to put it on TDC, take the bolts out of the CCT which was on a naked 4cyl so it was right there facing the front tire, and put the new one on.

It's a set and done deal. You MAY need to adjust them in 15k miles or so, but I haven't heard of anybody needing to adjust them when they go to check.

The only two ways a Manual CCT can fail is if you don't install it properly, or the lock nut loosens up (back to the install properly thing)

If everything is tight, the MCCT will not grenade your motor, even if the weird off chance that it does need adjusting. You don't have to continually check the adjustment to keep your motor from blowing up. If that were the case there'd be no point to switch from the auto CCT's.

sorny, I have a K&N in my bike with Stayintune Slip-ons. Bike runs great. No jetting was done as far as I know. Just letting you know.

Interesting, thanks for explaining.

When I was looking at the guide it sounded like you didn't even have to remove the valve covers if you are careful and take your time, is that true?

I was thinking the CCT thing would take a whole weekend so that's why I've been dreading it so bad.

I've read where some people have them and the bike runs awesome and was just going by the general consensus that it could require carb rejetting/tuning. I know how to rejet/tune a carb and have rebuilt a few sets from top to bottom, sync'd them, all that but I despise it so I'd go OEM just to be lazy :) But if someone's not as lazy as me or they get lucky like you then there ya go.

I used to not be this lazy working on bikes but I bought a 79 Yamaha XS1100 that basically needed EVERY THING done to it. I spent 2 years doing all these little things and it kinda burned me out so now I hate doing stuff unless its necessary.

You can install manual CCTs by just removing the rear cam cover - Should be able to do it carefully following instructions and if the alternator cap comes out easily in at most 4-6 hours. Just make sure you have read up on the procedure and have all the tools and bits & bobs required to hand.

Nice, that's not near as bad as I thought. Now I need to get on it and get it done.

Yea I hear ya man. I don't mind working on stuff sometimes. But rejetting and syncing carbs just for a K&N is a waste of time to me if it does in fact need to be done. I just want to ride lol I thought I would just let you know. But honestly, if I had to go out and buy a new filter I would probably go stock (says the guy with a K&N in EVERYTHING he owns) :shock:

I removed both covers AND dropped a bolt down the head the first time and it still only took about 6 hours.

I can now do it much faster if the occasion arises.

Definitely needs to be played with to get the K&N to run correctly. And then you are not guaranteed to get it right. Dropping it in will most certainly make it worse.

It's definitely possible the PO jetted it when he put the K&N in. He just mentioned nothing about it. You suggest I keep it as-is if I ever do anything with the filter if its running ok? Or should I put a stock one back in. I'm kinda an OEM guy when it comes to most things.

Let me put it this way: I bought my bike with a K&N, thought it ran OK and it had been jetted with a DynoJet or Factory Pro (can't remember now). Dropped in an OEM without changing anything and it ran better. Did 8541Hawk's carb setup and it was even better (especially in the mid-low range). Returned to the K&N to try one more time to get it set up properly but quickly gave up, especially after seeing that I was on the same track as others who had tried and couldn't get it to how they liked it.

I'm not saying this will work for everyone, and there is something to be said for "if it ain't broken, don't fix it", BUT you may not know what fixed feels like if you have only tried the K&N. In short, if it were my bike, I would get the OE filter even if it were jetted by the PO...

Thanks a lot, Next time I do some maintenance I'll check it out. Like I said, Im going by what the PO said to me so it may be a stock filter for all I know.

Yeah I dropped in a K&N in my 99 CBR 600 and it actually HELPED that bike but the Super Hawk is apparently a little more finicky. I don't want to mess with it so I just ordered an OEM, even if K&N was the same price.

I like getting more HP but putting in a K&N and then messing with carbs isn't worth 2hp IMO on a bike that's already quick enough to entertain me.