Check CCT?
 

I put Krieger CCT's on last winter, finger tight minus 1/4, ran it all over Michigan and from Michigan to Georgia, probably nearing 3000 miles on them at this point. I have the bike all stripped to repair/repaint the fairings and was wondering if I should check the CCT at this point? I haven't had any issues with power or clickity clacking.


I have noticed sometimes when she's cold she'll 'miss' every now and again. I'm not sure if that is from timing or spark plugs?


Big question is whether or not to check the tension. Heard people go for 20k-30k miles without having to adjust.


Thanks in advance and ride safe.

You shouldn't need to check them after only one season but considering that you installed them by feel and noise versus the full process of setting the specific tension to spec, unless i'm interpreting your post incorrectly, it wouldn't hurt to open it up and have a peak.

Your cold misfires are most likely just carb farts which could be caused by many things but most likely a pinch lean at idle or a poor sync. They aren't the worst thing in the world but I would recommend cleaning your carbs and syncing them (maybe a touch richer at idle too) because I've suffered the worst case of carb farts that actually poped the valve cover reliefs

https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...xploded-33391/

Check this out^^^

For sure, I cleaned and rejetted the carbs last winter as well and they went up a notch on the dynojet kit. Local shop says i shouldn't be running lean but i'll check the idle.

On the CCT's can I just pop the covers and the guide off and measure without going TDC?

If you are going to check em best set the timing correctly as when they were installed otherwise things will go awry.

However after 3K and if they aren't rattling or squealing I think you're being over cautious. In comparison I've done 25K since fitting manuals and haven't needed to adjust them.

Cool, so if I go TDC I should be able to pull the cam covers and the guide to move the chains for spec, and adjust without any other teardown? I'm thinking I'll have to pull the airbox to get to the front CCT but other than that this should be as easy as I hope right, cept for the bitch of looking at the front between the CAMs? 5mm's right, wont do it for a couple days so i haven't found the book yet?

hondahawk, follow this guide. I use this guide each time I set up someone's Superhawk. I love it, because it has fantastic pictures.
www.vtr1000.org ? View topic - Manual Cam Chain Tensioner Installation Guide (MCCT's)

CruxGNZ gave you the best direct link. But to give a direct awnser you will have to pull the carbs and the plastic peice out covering the cam cover for the front cam. It's not hard but does take a little more time and effort.

Yea that's the one I used to change 'em last winter. Thanks for the re-link though. Not sure I still have it. I'll probably print that and keep it with the manual now. I was just really hoping not to have to pull the carbs, though they should be easier since I broke them loose last winter.


Thanks guys for the quick responses and wisdom. I've been riding the Nighthawk and was trying to get back on the beast asap, looks like it won't be this weekend, but at least I don't have the PAIR system to play with...

I installed mine in 2006. I checked them a few times and they didn't need adjustment, so I quit worrying about it.
Maybe I should check them this year. Maybe not.

aaaaaalriiiiight, I'll just be freaking out all summer if i dont check them. Might as well do it now and forget about it for a year or 2

Take the time to check the tension with the valve covers off. I did mine the first time by feel/sound with a stethoscope and still had the tension too tight. You might be more skilled than me or luckier, but the tension method assures that it will be as close to what mister Honda designed.
Remember that the cam journals are part of the head casting with no other bearing surface. Proper tension will keep the cams from damaging the journals/head.
To pull the front cover I only had to move the oil cooler. The hardest part, for me, was getting the back cover bolts back in and aligned so they would engage the studs and that was not that hard.

I was wondering about that when i looked at it yesterday, i'll definitely try just the oil cooler and see what i have, like you said, if im lucky theyre good and all ill be doing is checking them

Aight y'all, thank you again. The rear was a little tight, right at 5mm maybe a bit under. Got it to just under 6mm and the front was at it already. Timing was good so all I have to finish is painting. Loctite has a week to dry for fairing painting so hopefully all goes well on the next start.

PS, i did not take the carbs or airbox off, it was a pain in the ass and i had to remove the bracket that the spark plug wire goes through to get the cover off but everything seems to be seated appropriately. It would definitely be easier to adjust the front with at least the airbox off but i didn't need to.

PPS, Krieger's hand tight minus 1/4 held 1 cylinder true for me, take that as you may.

PPPS, had some oil "oxidation"? on the lower side of the front CAM cover gasket that i cleaned off, how normal is this? Coming North from the Cumberland cap i ran into 2 days of rain...

I play it by ear. If you don't hear any ticking the cam drive is in good adjustment. If you hear clicking when fully warmed up then you need to crack the locking nuts loose and slowly turn the adjuster bolt in. It won't be much, maybe only 1/8-1/4 turn, maybe not even that much if your hearing is good. Go easy on it and do it while the bike is idling if you can. Otherwise just give it 1/16-1/8 turn when cold and that will likely be sufficient. That is my experience so far. Once seated in, HyVo type chains don't wear much.

- Krieger