I don't think the Ez out will work(but thank you for the suggestion). the spring and assembly are stuck behind the threaded plastic collar so the plunger is still in there. I would have to cut the cable and spring and I honestly would like to recover the threaded part and superglue it back on. tomorrow I am going to pick up a pick and awl to give it a shot. If not then I will break down and order a 30$ plastic nut that will break at the first opportunity.
I made a much easier to read post about this located at this link. 06-25-11 A High Carb Disaster! « Just a Geek On a Bike |
If you had any doubts about using chemtool or seafoam in you tank this post should prove their power. The carbs were super clean with only minimal gunk in the tubes. It appears that my problem has more to do with those nasty spark plugs. btw a harbor freight deep socket set will work for taking out the spark plugs
10 Piece Color Coded 1/2" Drive Deep Wall Metric Socket Set 18mm |
Then using a small pocket screwdriver or something similar, try getting a bite on the plastic (being careful to not damage the aluminum threads) and tap carefully with a small hammer in a counterclockwise direction.
I'm assuming that the needle is not stuck in the fitting. If it is break out the B12 again and blast it. |
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My only advice would be to use a different work surface... it would suck to have one of the needles fall off the wire shelving you're using and roll out of sight. Oh and make sure you don't drop any wrenches on your feet while wearing those flip flops ;)
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Lol I was afraid of that happening the entire time. Fortunately it did not.
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Originally Posted by 7moore7
(Post 307292)
The two small hoses that are zip tied in between your carbs... those are better off not woven into the frame of the carbs. Something about a plugged vent under heavy braking or something. Just pull them out and aim them down into the bike when you re-assemble.
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Originally Posted by geekonamotorcycle
(Post 307339)
I don't think the Ez out will work(but thank you for the suggestion). the spring and assembly are stuck behind the threaded plastic collar so the plunger is still in there. I would have to cut the cable and spring and I honestly would like to recover the threaded part and superglue it back on. tomorrow I am going to pick up a pick and awl to give it a shot. If not then I will break down and order a 30$ plastic nut that will break at the first opportunity.
I made a much easier to read post about this located at this link. 06-25-11 A High Carb Disaster! « Just a Geek On a Bike i found brass ones that fit. the came off the choke cable for a 400 polaris scrambler. the ones off of a 250 polaris scrambler are too big but can be re cut and made to work if yur very patient. havent tried the one off of a 500 polaris. its a 4-stroke but does hav a mic carb. odds are 50/50 wouldnt hurt to try. they hav a threaded end that needs drilled out but they are brass so its easy. and they wont snap like the stock plastic ones do. one of mine was broke when i got the bike the other one i broke trying to put back in the front carb. |
Originally Posted by Tweety
(Post 307365)
Then, why not replace it with a $30 something brass part that won't break?
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I should make that mod I suppose. The last scramber 400 model I could find was from 2002
Xtreme Powersports' 2002 Polaris ATV SCRAMBLER 400 4X4 (A02BG38CA) Parts List #7 is what I need? if so I will go ahead and order 2 right now. I dont need to mod it right? |
Ok step one achieved!
YouTube - ‪Retrieving the broken SE nut from a firestorm carburetor‬‏ I ordered what I think is the right polaris part today too. |
Originally Posted by geekonamotorcycle
(Post 307406)
Ok step one achieved!
YouTube - ‪Retrieving the broken SE nut from a firestorm carburetor‬‏ I ordered what I think is the right polaris part today too. |
Buahaha Honda 1 Joshua+pick+superglue 1
Who will win? https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-p...0/IMG_3480.JPG |
Originally Posted by geekonamotorcycle
(Post 307414)
Who will win?
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well I just need it to last until the spark plugs+brass fittings arrive. I also opened up the chamber on the choke cable where one becomes two and sprayed some knock off wd 40 in side I pulled it in and out until the stuff dripped out of the far end. now I have nice smooth operations.
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Congrats! Now wasn't that fun?;)
Next time it will go easier. |
Originally Posted by 8541Hawk
(Post 307293)
Though it is nice to see you have been paying attention Ian ;)
Geek- good job man. You'll never see your bike the same once you start working on it! |
yes it was! next week I am pulling it off again to install the brass nuts and i think sage is coming over since his SE nut is broken too.
Here is a video of the first ride, Idles a bit high but sounds amazing. Gonna sync and tweak next weekend. YouTube - First ride after carb job part 9 - I took it easy on the corners b/c my tires were cold and as I discovered the front was slightly under-inflated at 30 psi. You can really feel those 6 psi She is much snappier to respond even though she was mostly clean already. I also sealed the bad joint that the KN filter leaves with Black RTV. I cleaned the housing of the Carbs the heat shield the tubing and the cylinder heads. I cleaned some of the carbon off of the bad spark plugs which I will replace next weekend and then I lubed the choke cable internally and all the springs and joints on the carbs. I did make one mistake though. the throttle cable elbow below the control that guides the cable. I had it pointing forward and it scratched the paint on my bike when I turned while parking. I corrected it though. I estimate I could do this whole thing in less than 2 hours next time. I feel like a man now. Is that a normal after carb job feeling? |
On that part, couldnt you just bolster it somehow to hold it in place. Its just a choke line which is a cable system so it just really has to be held in place to work right?
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Geek- you may have to modify that SE nut, but I'm not sure. I remember drilling some threads out of mine (2 min job with the tools), but when I assembled I realized that I might not have needed to. So it could go either way. One thing's for sure, it's not going to snap like the plastic ones!
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