Carb conundrum
 

Hi,
I tried a half arsed way of asking this question the other day, but thought it better to give more info..

I crashed my Storm last year and after 6 months in the garage I got around to fixing her. Everything is working now, apart from when riding there is a definite softness in the power, she runs a little warm, and is quite vibey at mid revs.
Anyway, I figured I'd pull the carbs apart and do the mod with the needle shim and 48 jets.

Then I discovered a Dynojet Kit and put the carbs back on not knowing where to go. I also balanced the carbs which were out.
I did also notice a bit of fuel splash in the airbox around the front carb.

Now without buying a load of stuff to take it back to standard, would installing 48's bugger the whole thing up? Where should the needle clips be? I am also going to seal off the extra drilled holes....

Are my questions unanswerable? Has anyone got a base setting for a dynojet kit to try? I did buy the storm with a k&n filter, but junked it as it was running poor low down ( not knowing about the jet kit)

Any help would be appreciated.....

FYI 97 Uk storm, standard Air filter, Remus pipes.

On a 97 UK bike you will most probably have 45 pilots IIRC it was late 98 that Honda started putting 48s in as standard on UK bikes. The majority of VTR's over here in the uK are running 48's and plenty of people use a Dynojet kit.

The dynojet base setting for Sea level are 180 mains, needles on 4 clip from the blunt end (there's 5 clip positions on Dynojet needles). I know the US Dynojet kit are slightly different as they supply diaphragm springs and a few more mains in the selection.

Two things that DO NOT work on the VTR's regarding Dynojet kits is the springs that they supply, so stick with the standard springs. And Do NOT drill the extra lift holes in the slides. As for blocking any of the lift holes as in Hawks set up, this would be trial and error with a dynojet kit. Also on that note there is no need to go shimming the needles as you will be using adjustable needles, unless you want to fine tune and position the clip in between two clip positions with a 10 thou shim/washer. IIRC there is 20 thou between each clip position.

Personaly as long as your at Sea Level and not living in Denver or somewhere I would use either two 180 mains or a 180 front and 185 rear, try the needles either on the 3 or 4 clip and use 48 pilots. Fuel mixture screws at about 2.5 turns out on the front and 2.1/4 turns on the rear, give or take a 1/4 turn. Don't use the Dynojet springs and leave the lift holes as they are as standard. Don't make any extra holes or fill any. This will give you a reasnable base setting where you can tweak things from.

I say base setting because every bikes requirement is going to be slightly different depending on climate, mods, the exhaust you have and the condition of the engine. Knowone can really give you the exact setting that your bike will require, especially over the internet.

I suggest you have a read up on carb theory, CV carbs and how to tune them. Factory pro have a good guide that is well worth a read and the same principle applies no matter which jet kit you use.
CV Carb Tuning Procedures

Hopefully this helps and gives you an idea of what your dealing with. I would also consider setting the TPS to 500ohms as well. This will help with low speed steady state cruise.

The easy route would be to take it to a dyno but that is not cheap or half as fun as doing it yourself and you never know if the dyno tech is any good at what they do. What I suggest you do is have a go yourself and test the seat of your pants tuning, experiment, learn and have fun. When you feel you have it running nice, then take it for a single run on a dyno machine, get the print out and see how close you are to perfect. You can then tweak things further if needs be.

Oh and keep the Standard filter. https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...ons/icon14.gif

(:-})

That's great thanks, I'll try your base setting and see where it leads me...
Thanks for your help...