Break in procedure for motorcycles, etc...etc...
 

Ok, I know this topic has been debated in the past, so it is time for some new Drama!! Read it makes sense....so how about you mechanics out there chime in and tell us what you thinks!! LOL

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

I pretty much share the same views as him on break in.

The only things I would debate over is the synthetic oil theory,
& i'd put a magnet on the filter to catch all the bits.

Randy, you suck.
















:mrgreen: Lots of short trips up to operating temperature with full cooldown in between. The first 10 minutes of running the motor are most important. Don't let it idle too long. Get some revs on it (not full throttle) and use a lot of engine braking. Most ring pressure is on decel. Change oil at 50 miles at most. Then again at 600. Then again at 3000, and every 3000 thereafter. Synthetic can be used starting at 600 if you like. Don't forget other parts of break in, like tires and brakes. No hard braking or ham fisted starts. Easy on the lean angle until tires are scrubbed in.

I did the Motoman "hard" break-in, changed at 30, then at 600, then after my track day with around 1300 miles. The oil then looked like a thin anti-seize lube !!:shock:!! (Castrol GTX...Synthetic Mobil 1 since then). All grey and silvery.

I thought about the magnet idea....will a magnet pick up aluminum? I know aluminum is softer than steel gear parts, so it's probably not as damaging, but I think I read on the motoman sight that most of his time in a rebuild is spent removing smeared aluminum off parts. My gnarly looking oil change looked like liquid aluminum.

Be sure to post to find out the best choice in oil ;)

Well, if I end up getting the KLR today, I am going to break it in a little harder than recommended by Kawi, but maybe not as hard as he says...and oil is cheap enough to do it several times before 600...In fact the dealer I am looking at is offering 9.99 oil changes Fri-Sun this weekend...hmmm, not even worth my time to do it myself...I may just ride it hard down the street, then come back after 20-30 miles and get a cheap oil change...LOL...

A magnet will not pick up aluminum

Looking at a KLR, huh? I've been kinda tempted myself. While I know this is not a KLR forum, if you get a chance PM me after you've formed an opinion, I'd love to hear it. I've never had a dirt bike and was thinking about getting this to play a little, nothing extreme, and wondered if it's just too big to learn dirt on. It would be mostly jeep trails and sugar sand in Ocala.

not to jack a thread or anything,but blue vtr,go to advrider.com if you want more info on a klr,im in ocala,i ride with a bunch of the guys on adv.trust me,a 650 in the ocala national forest is not fun in the sand,i have a light 250 dirtbike made street legal with street title,the biggest i would get would be like a drz400

that's cool...Yeah, I agree, for what he is looking to do a drz400 would be a good bike for him...

+1 on the DRZ400 but to me true love is the Supermoto version, 125 Kg sounds easier to handle in sand than 180 kg, but the KLR is waaay more comfortable on the long haul than the lil 400

Back on Topic you Thread Jackers!!!! LOL>...Geez, that is my job to jack threads, not ya'lls....lol

Darn, .. yeah
BEAT THE CRAP OUT OF IT !!!!
You need to seat those rings right, motoman is just one of those who got it right, but the most popular for sure :D

Where the hell that aluminium dust come from ?? I Mean there is no parts that contact aluminium, just rings, sleeve, maybe some crome or Nikasil hardened cylinder, other than that niet ??!! So I think that it's mainlythe piston rings filing against the bore, anything else is abnormal wrear

:horse::horse::horse: Like this?? or Like this>>>:banghead::banghead: or how about this:spank::spank::thumbsup: or maybe:woo::wootwoot::rotf::rotf::noevil:

In other words, "Ride it like you Stole it"!!!:evillaugh::evillaugh: