Bonehead move on carb sync adapter install - help w next steps
 

Hi Folks,

I purchased the little M5 $3 brass adapter from Honda so that I could install some "relocation tubes" for easy future carb syncs.

Well, I overtightened the brass fitting and snapped the nipple part off from the threads. :eek:

...so it looks like I'm going to have to take off the carbs and have a shop use a tap & die to remove that piece.

My question: What other things might I want to have done at the same time the carbs are off? I was planning to have them cleaned this winter anyway.

The previous owner had jetted them but I don't know the details. The bike has 26K miles on it with Devil high mount exhausts.

I plan to have the manual CCTs installed for sure. I purchased them already.

Anything else I might want to do while the carbs are off? Hopefully it won't be much trouble for a shop to remove the brass threaded piece from here...

Oh - the previous owner had installed a K&N air filter. What is the current consensus on those? Should I just go back to stock?

Thank you in advance,

Justin

PS - Side note - the previous owner had performed the PAIR removal - he plugged the hole in bottom of airbox, plugged the little tube near the front carb, and put caps on the the metal pieces that conceal the "reeds" - but didn't actually flip the reed holders over to prevent the reeds from opening. Any idea what the net effect is of this? Is it pretty much just as effective? I did turn the reed holders over when I was in there, but I'm curious how the behavior might be before and after.

General consensus on K&N is ew from what ive read. Many have got them and tweak the bike to use them properly but your usually gaining more problems then performance (those using them might disagree). I found my Stock air filter to be just fine.

If carbs are off id check the PO's jetting setup while you are there. There is a good article in the KB that talks about Jetting using #48 pilots. Maybe take a dive into your valves and check clearances/make adjustments if needed.

Could always do a nice cleaning while you got more space.

I know I have a huge list of items to do during the off season, so good luck to us both.

the threaded portion broken off in the head will come right out unless you cross threaded it in the head.

Left hand drill bit, or screw exstractor will do just fine.

Getting to it will be the issue.

Going to have to remove a bunch, unless you have a very short, and small right angle drill.

I have a Ingersol Rand right angle drill for such things. Though Im not sure I could get in there with that either until I stripped away most the stuff above the motor.

https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...1&d=1344887154

A very good technician decided to tighten the brass adapter I'd installed in the front cylinder head when he had my VTR on a dynamometer. Same thing happened. I was able to get it out very easily with a dental pick after I had removed the carburettors. Brass is fairly soft and it can shear without a lot of force being applied to it.

Use an easyout / screw extractor

You've already got a small hole through the centre, and then use a fine easyout

Like others said, screw extractor should work. You won't necessarily need a power tool, I've used an extractor many times with an adjustable wrench or other hand tool. You have more feeling doing it by hand to feel when the extractor begins to "bite" into the screw.

...and I think I've won the bonehead move of the year award(see my recent post in Tech section)

Hi Guys,

I found a small enough screw extractor and was able to get the broken unit out.

Proceeded to install another M5 fitting that I purchased from Morgan Carbtune for the purpose of relocating tubes for carb sync. Not very much fun but I got it in there and used thread sealant. Routed tube to the left side of the frame.


Installed a T inline with the tube that runs from the rear carb to the petcock, and ran another tube to the same location at left side of frame for purpose of easy carb syncs.


Reinstalled airbox, filter, and airbox lid. (I think I got the lower airbox portion on tightly but btw, how do you guys typically get your hands in there to attach the tube that goes to the front left bottom attachment point? it was pretty difficult)


Reinstalled tank. I had marked the hose connections and reinstalled them in the same locations. vac line from rear carb to BACK of petcock (PITA btw) - fuel lines to sides of petcock, large breather hose to larger nipple on tank to right of petcock (as if sitting on bike), smaller hose to smaller nipple next to that.


bolted tank back
tried to fire up - crank but no start.

realized that I forgot to reopen the valve on petcock - propped tank up, opened valve - crank but no start. (btw can anyone confirm - is full clockwise open or closed?)


Does anyone have any ideas as to the first things I should check? Common errors? things commonly overlooked?


I can take pics of my connections under the tank if desired.


Thank you!

Justin

Check your kill switch on the right handle bar.
Make sure coils are plugged in and wires are on the spark plug all the way.
Check fuses.
Check grounds.
Check to make sure you got the petcock vacuum connected right.
Make sure you have enough fuel.

The first thing to check would be the kill swirch is in the run position....

Well beat too it but that is what I get for trying to post from my phone....lol

+1 on the kill switch! HA!

I find it funny that you call it a bonehead move and then almost everyone that has posted on this thread tells you how THEY got it out when THEY did the same thing...

I used a dental pick...:p

BTW I know you said you marked the hoses and put the vacuum line on the back of the petcock but did you make sure it was the horizontal fitting on the back of the petcock and not the vertical?

and clockwise facing the petcock/back of the bike is closed