Blowing headlights
 

ive done research everyone points to rr. I continuously blow headlights. Low beam, high beam either one, both. I dont touch bulbs with bare hands. All of my connectors are fine from the naked eye going to headlight. No strips splices. All my fuses are fine and right sizes. I have stock headlights no upgrades.. My rectifier is absolutely perfect. Just checked 3 times last night and atleast every 2 weeks. Have mosfet r1 and heatsink. I dont understamd what im missing. A few days and my 30+$ bulbs are toast...help. I have 5 more days until i get my license and i cant ride around with no headlights

Key on, Engine on, what voltage are you getting at the head light connector? High beam? Low Beam? Idle and 3000RPM?
What voltage are you getting at the battery key on, engine off, key on engine on? Idle and 3000RPM?

battery key on engine off 12.4 13.8 completely off . idle @1k rpm is. 13.9
3k rpm is 14.2..
As far as headlight plug goes. I would need a guide for what prongs to check with positive or negative side.i kind of poked around was getting crazy readings.sorry I'm not good at the mulitimeter havnt used it too much besides battery

13.8 V for key off is high.....

a 12v lead acid battery is fully charged at 12.7 - 13.2

But that aside for a second..
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.sup...93b92b171a.jpg

There is your standard headlight connector ..get a voltage reading from the ground and high/ low beam positive terminal key on, motor running at about 3k RPM

ill get that reading to you today while im at work.thankyou for making it simple.also i domt know if it changes anything but i don't have a lead acid battery.it's one of the recycled glass. Yausa

Thats still a lead acid battery ... just different way it works... but voltage is in common with all other lead acid types with liquid filled, gel, AGM, or what ever.
If it was a Lithium Ion or a dry cell type, resting voltages would be different thats why we confirmed you have a lead acid type.

Yuasa sealed batteries use a thing called AGM -Absorbed Glass Mat (AGM).. Technology is an advanced battery design that eliminates water loss. Once it's filled with acid, you'll never need to fill it with water or check the acid level.
Once the battery is filled with water/ acid mix, its sealed and your done. ...but its still a lead acid type battery.

thankyou for the info. I learn something more everyday... As to my battery it was 13.08 key off. Sorry i was half asleep last night

I was reading 14.2 low beam at headlight

And that was motor on yes? What RPM?
14.2 is what i look for after doing a MOSFET RR swap ...it does decrease bulb life a little over all, but not near enough to damage them quickly.
I was getting 2-3 years from a Hella H4 bulb....and I replace them at that point anyway as H4 bulbs (all glass envelope) bulbs get dimmer as the glass is coated with filament material, and well as the filament gets thinner and leads to breaking at some point.
But if your getting more then 14.2v at higher RPM, that could lead to a fast burn out.

definitely not more than 14.2 tgat was betwenn 2.5 and 4k rpm. Did a range to test

im using Sylvania h4 bulbs.not cheap about 30 a bulb and there blowing every few days.granted i ride alot but doesn't make sense

I agree something is wrong..If your positive its not an install issue (blub being touched with bare fingers and not cleaned well, or some other contaminant)
Id bet its a power issue.

Over volt most likely.

Bulbs do fail eventually from vibrations, but i doubt short of riding some suspension testing pot hole test track its not going to be enough in normal riding daily to kill the bulb in that short of a time.
That leaves power.
Your said Heat sink? never seen one used with an MOSFET RR install. Can you post a pic?
Where did you source your MOSFET R1 RR? New or used? have a picture of the one you installed?

Just so we are clear... New does not = Perfect or serviceable.
Testing is what shows serviceability. .New parts come pre dead or non serviceable all the time .

most definitely i use latex gloves and neved touch the bulbs from beginning.. Also i pretty much move all wires out the way so when bulb goes in it doeznt even make contact to anything

Yes ill get a pic when i get home tonight. I heard on a post its better to disperse heat.. Its a regular cpu heat sink i cut to size. Actually before i installed it the rr used to get hot..now it's almost cool tothe touch.but like i mentioned i check the voltageregularly and is normal. And i have no other electrical issues...uuuggghh fucking hawk...luckily i got it cheap

sourced from ebay new in package.but over had no charging or electric issues so idk

Ahh, ok so not a genuine SHINDENGEN MOSFET RR .. yes please lets see a pic..and if you can a link to the page you bought it from

You are monitoring the voltage or you have just checked it ?
By monitoring i mean you have a voltage gauge or light on it so you can see voltage, over or under volt as your using the bike...Cold, warm, hot, freeway speed and at the same time the bulb is burning out.
One mode of RR failure is, after it is warm, and motor (stator) at speed for some time (going down the freeway, back road..more then a 10 min trip to the corner store ) a component degradation happens in the RR and voltage spikes way up...We see it damage instrument clusters, ECUs and the like, but headlight bulbs are also common.

Id bet you ebay special regulator is the root of the cause, and id further bet if you were to monitor voltage while riding you would find voltage spiking .

If the ebay RR used the correct OEM Style RR Connectors - Furukawa QLW-250 Series, then id get back on ebay and find a used MOSFET FH020AA RR and buy it for all of $15-25 and install it.....Im betting that will correct the issue.


NOTE: I suppose its worth considering the bulb source.. Are these genuine Phillips bulbs? from a known trusted source? Is it possible they are fakes from a dicey Internet source? If not that and your getting them from..well Walmart or AutoZone, whatever..are you getting replacement from the same store? I suppose its possible you have lucked into a bad lot... or a design change that makes that brand and model bulb not able to handle the highish range of "acceptable" charging voltage.

Change brands, for one, you will stop burning up $30 bulbs.. get your self a different known brand and model bulb plain Jane Sylvania H4 maybe, or Hella ...Before install confirm voltage at the headlight.. Cold and motor warm, idle and at speed. if you have only a DVM for reading voltage, duct tape that sucker to the tank and go for a ride.... look for high voltage readings at speed when RPM has been highish and constant..think 30-45 min ride down the highway.. If no spikes seen, install that different brand style bulb and see how it goes.

An LED "bulb" might also help..as they are more voltage tolerant. I am using the Cyclops 7400 lumen "H4" now and have used it for months, hundreds of running hours at 14.2 v ...As well as installed them in a dozen bikes ...they are working well.

very well put. Well. I finally got home and looked up what u posted. I definitely dont have that rr.. Do you have a trusted link to share i can purchase one from to move past this issue.theres tons of choices. Sorry and thankyou for everything(holding my ✋ and walking me through

https://www.ebay.com/itm/YAMAHA-SHIN...-/380705241034

Sourcing & fitting a MOSFET FH020AA R/R - VTR1000.ORG

Roadster Cycle is my go to place for FH020AA RR new when suggesting a source Home
Prices are fair and he is a small shop with a trusted owner / operator

It can be done cheaper but not with new parts and build quality of his kits unless you have the ability to do the wiring with the proper tools and such.

There are many ebay and other places selling fake copies of the Shindegen MOSFET RR unless I had previous experience with a ebay seller I would not trust the item you get to be real.
I can buy 100 fake RR's from a china source at $4 each...... those are what your seeing on ebay for $49.99 or what ever.
I know what the guy at Roadster Cycle is paying for his SH and FH Shindegen RR's and he is not making much on them... the point is, unless your an OEM buying 10,000 at a time know one can get real ones for resale at stupid low prices.... those are FAKES..The link Wicky provided is likely a real one, probable...at $117 thats a fair price for a real one,...
But the Mosfet kit complete FH020AA is only $128.95 from Roadster ready to wire on to your harness...

so i went for a ride today. Connected my volt meter to my battery and sure enough it's fried.im going to order the kit front roadsters cycle seems to be the easiest.thanks for all links and explanations.. Just a question before i buy, did you need any extra wire lengths from his shop or does what he supplies in the kit fit our bike

The standard kit works..3ft is more than enough.
Plan on soldiering the stator wires and you will be sealing off and not using the OEM wiring harness charge wires....neither of then, ground or positive. You will need a little extra heat shrink tubing for that.. Pick some up locally or ask Jack (owner/operator at Roadster) to add 4" to your order.

Get the "super" kit unless you have the proper ratcheting cripmers for the terminal crimping needed to be down on the "crimp and Soldier " kit.

As another options....

Last few months i was asked a few times if I would make an RR kit specific to the SH. I had a few used FH020 on hand and said yes....

So I figured why not....https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...92/#post404867

soits a complete kit ready to sauder to stator wires.? But the rr is used? How do you ensure they are good? Sorry for the questions? Id be interested in saving a few bucks if they are reliable

Used ones are bench tested against OEM service manual specs and procedures then tested in use on my bike..they are like a light switch, work or don't..there is no part way.
So I hook them to my bike and check voltage control cold and after warm up, at idle and at 3~9k. If it holds 13.8~14.2 VDC, they are working.
I've personally installed a few dozen like this, plus 4 of my bikes...... None of them has failed after install......

And yes, the kit will come ready to install. To install you cut and seal off the stock ground and charge wire (using the included heat shrink tube)
and cut your stator wires, slip on a piece of heat shrink tube and soldier the stator wires one at a time. Heat the shrink tube and your done.. undo the battery screws, add the RR charge wires, put screws back. Zip tie the wiring in place..start up, check voltage and you should see 13.2~14.2 volts rock steady.

ok where do you ship from?

do hou offer a warranty? Do they come with instructions?

also could you check overnight shipping to 33186.its my dailydriver so I'm in a bind

Texas

There are several threads about install of these..
I'll do a write up in the next few days, but no...I don't have a detailed install instructions yet.
Im a fellow SH owner offering to help out others with a kit... I guarantee its a workable kit that many have been able to install. I guarantee the RR worked when it was in my hands. If you install it correctly and it does not work for you that day, call me.. I'll talk you though your mistake.
It is an electrical component and can be damaged by improper installation...
I'll warranty all required components are included for an install as i would do it.
Id suggest you search and read of the few threads here and other forums on the install of a MOFSET RR, if your not comfortable doing the install or don't feel ok with the install of a used known good component.. Please take your bike to a local shop, no harm no fault and no hard feelings.

If I can help great, if not, ok.

Erik

hey erik. Been a busy week. Sorry i didn't get back to you. I ended up getting the super kit from roadster cycle.. Great kit easy to install. I also lopked up on your detailed instructions write up you did.thanks for all the help. Everything great now

Happy to hear you got it sorted.
Jack at Roadster make a quality product.