Bike will not keep charge??
 

I am having to charge my batt. EVERY DAY! Will not hold a charge whatsoever! I took out the Odometer fuse to see if it would help, it didnt.. Took the batt. up and had it tested, said its good? Any suggestions?

did you do a load test on the battery or just check the voltage? I cant imagine anything on the bike draining the battery that much over 24hrs other than the headlights. More than likely its time for a new battery.

if the voltage checks out while the bike is running its probably time for a new battery, slight chance its the stator but those don't go bad too often. Spend the few extra bucks and get a sealed, maintenance free battery and pick up a float/trickle charger. The charger will double your battery life.

+1

Or just check if you have an OEM R/R... Since one of their failure mode's are dumping the battery voltage to ground when there is no input from the stator... That drains a good battery in about 24h....

Here is the first thing I would do if it were my bike. I would get a digital Volt Ohm Meter (VOM) and switch it to read DC Current (AMPS) and with ignition shut off, pick either connection to your battery - positive or negative- does not matter. Then connect the VOM between the battery lead and the corresponding post it is disconneted from. If you read any current above .025 AMPS, there's a short somewhere in the electrical system. You must find and eliminate this, I'd start with each individual fuse to narrow further. The clock only draws about .013A on my 2002.

Now, your present battery might still be screwed from the repeated deep discharges/recharges daily, but unless you determine there's no short, a new battery might fix the problem, or it could l suffer the same problems. If you find and fix a short, give your existing battery another go and see if it holds.

I just replaced my R/R on Thursday night because of this. Took about an hour to swap in a new unit for an '01 R1, but everything has been running great since.

There was a TON of corrosion in the connectors to the stock R/R, which I assume had something to do with it. The connections on the new one are all soldered and sealed with RTV silicone now.

Thanks all. So I ran the # on my current R/R SH693-12.. Think its from an older CBR has fins, looks like a car amplifier. The conector has some burn marks on it..Got a new battery today we'll see if it helps..The old one had some melt on the + terminal..Maybe was connected wrong?? I dont know..This bike is a mixed pot! Hard to know what i'm dealing with..Runs like raped ape though! lol

Well, with burnmarks on the connector, it doesn't really matter what it's from... Bin it and replace... Before your new battery is toast... That should be pretty basic thinking when you see burnmarks...

Thanks for you Kind words there Tweety...Sweed..Go figure

Well... ;) Kind or not... They are true... ;)

Burnmarks means you have resistance... even if the PO have just hooked it up wrong once, it will still have damaged the tyristors, making them conduct more the way they aren't supposed to, making the bike discharge, and making them conduct less the way they are supposed to, making the charging noticably less efficient when it's actually charging...

If it's not a bad hook up, it's corrosion & heat creating resistance... And that's just as bad...

Also an old tyristor based R/R is down there with sledge hammers or tennis racquets to kill mosqitoues in terms of efficiency to start with, so the result once they start degrading isn't good...

Hence my suggestion that it might be time to replace it...

Sweed? Swede, perhaps? or a reference to Tweety in the cartoons? If you think Tweety is all "nice"... Check this... YouTube - Looney Tunes GC Disc 4 Tweetys SOS 1951 SChiZO and watch the "eanie, meanie, moe" scene... That's the part that made Tweety my hero... ;)