any advice on fixing an MC?
03-10-2014, 01:11 PM
#1
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any advice on fixing an MC?
i have this magura Radial 190 MC. long story short the top part of the MC that houses the screw that holds the brake lever is broken. the bottom piece is completley in tact and fine. the brake lever still works but i just wouldnt trust it without something holding the top of the screw in place. heres some pictures.
im thinking i can JB weld it but as its aluminum idk if it will work. what do you guys think?
im thinking i can JB weld it but as its aluminum idk if it will work. what do you guys think?
03-10-2014, 02:05 PM
#5
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We'll here's what happened. It was on te bike when I bought it. I dropped the bike a day or two after I got it while not even moving. Just siting still. Then I road it fine for a couple days before I replaced it with a pretty much stock nissin MC. The radial is so much nicer. Like I said it worked fine. It's just annoying.
However I dot want to risk having no brakes all the sudden but the bottom piece is pretty strong. But It's not really under a load so I think it should work
However I dot want to risk having no brakes all the sudden but the bottom piece is pretty strong. But It's not really under a load so I think it should work
03-10-2014, 03:54 PM
#6
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That looks like a weird failure! You know there are so many Fake Brembo brake parts out on the market right now. I would not be surprised if this item was not a fake also...I have never seen a M/C fail like that, honestly looks like poorly cast aluminum.
I perfer to stay away from cheap brake parts...like all the cheap chinese knock off brake levers...prefer to stick with CRG's....they also have xlnt customer service....
Just becareful....you would not believe how much cheap junk/fake chinese stuff is out there, from Alpinestars to Dianese....from Brembo to everything else!
I perfer to stay away from cheap brake parts...like all the cheap chinese knock off brake levers...prefer to stick with CRG's....they also have xlnt customer service....
Just becareful....you would not believe how much cheap junk/fake chinese stuff is out there, from Alpinestars to Dianese....from Brembo to everything else!
03-10-2014, 04:22 PM
#7
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That looks like a weird failure! You know there are so many Fake Brembo brake parts out on the market right now. I would not be surprised if this item was not a fake also...I have never seen a M/C fail like that, honestly looks like poorly cast aluminum.
I perfer to stay away from cheap brake parts...like all the cheap chinese knock off brake levers...prefer to stick with CRG's....they also have xlnt customer service....
Just becareful....you would not believe how much cheap junk/fake chinese stuff is out there, from Alpinestars to Dianese....from Brembo to everything else!
I perfer to stay away from cheap brake parts...like all the cheap chinese knock off brake levers...prefer to stick with CRG's....they also have xlnt customer service....
Just becareful....you would not believe how much cheap junk/fake chinese stuff is out there, from Alpinestars to Dianese....from Brembo to everything else!
03-10-2014, 04:33 PM
#8
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It's just brakes! You have a rear one if the front fails!
Or you can chop some wood screws for much more secure repair:
https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...84/#post329409
Or you can chop some wood screws for much more secure repair:
https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...84/#post329409
03-10-2014, 04:40 PM
#9
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That looks like a weird failure! You know there are so many Fake Brembo brake parts out on the market right now. I would not be surprised if this item was not a fake also...I have never seen a M/C fail like that, honestly looks like poorly cast aluminum.
I perfer to stay away from cheap brake parts...like all the cheap chinese knock off brake levers...prefer to stick with CRG's....they also have xlnt customer service....
Just becareful....you would not believe how much cheap junk/fake chinese stuff is out there, from Alpinestars to Dianese....from Brembo to everything else!
I perfer to stay away from cheap brake parts...like all the cheap chinese knock off brake levers...prefer to stick with CRG's....they also have xlnt customer service....
Just becareful....you would not believe how much cheap junk/fake chinese stuff is out there, from Alpinestars to Dianese....from Brembo to everything else!
anyways i know its a real $500+ Magura radial MC. the guys gave me all his receipts when i bought the bike
i had some aluminum JB weld and put it together with it. it seems like it hold really well. like i said the brake worked fine even when the top side was broken. almost like a single sided swingarm as opposed to a double side swingarm.
id really like to have the nicer MC but at the same time i dont like worrying that things can brake any minutes. expecially at track speeds! i think ill take it when i go have my swinger brace welded on in a couple days and see if there is anything they can do with it. other wise it will just be art!!
anyone recomend a good set of shorty levers for the hawk? i see them cheap on ebay but does anyone have them? is it worth it to just get a nice reputable set?
Last edited by jscobey; 03-10-2014 at 04:51 PM.
03-10-2014, 06:35 PM
#10
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It's just brakes! You have a rear one if the front fails!
Or you can chop some wood screws for much more secure repair:
https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...84/#post329409
Or you can chop some wood screws for much more secure repair:
https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...84/#post329409
I love this forum. I get so many great ideas from all of you artists.
03-10-2014, 07:13 PM
#11
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ive heard of knock of gucci and prada but never knock off brembo's!!! wow if thats true im amazed. for the trouble you would go through to make fake brembos you could just make your own really good brake part company.
anyways i know its a real $500+ Magura radial MC. the guys gave me all his receipts when i bought the bike
i had some aluminum JB weld and put it together with it. it seems like it hold really well. like i said the brake worked fine even when the top side was broken. almost like a single sided swingarm as opposed to a double side swingarm.
id really like to have the nicer MC but at the same time i dont like worrying that things can brake any minutes. expecially at track speeds! i think ill take it when i go have my swinger brace welded on in a couple days and see if there is anything they can do with it. other wise it will just be art!!
anyone recomend a good set of shorty levers for the hawk? i see them cheap on ebay but does anyone have them? is it worth it to just get a nice reputable set?
anyways i know its a real $500+ Magura radial MC. the guys gave me all his receipts when i bought the bike
i had some aluminum JB weld and put it together with it. it seems like it hold really well. like i said the brake worked fine even when the top side was broken. almost like a single sided swingarm as opposed to a double side swingarm.
id really like to have the nicer MC but at the same time i dont like worrying that things can brake any minutes. expecially at track speeds! i think ill take it when i go have my swinger brace welded on in a couple days and see if there is anything they can do with it. other wise it will just be art!!
anyone recomend a good set of shorty levers for the hawk? i see them cheap on ebay but does anyone have them? is it worth it to just get a nice reputable set?
I had a 1990 Nissan Sentra that developed a large crack in the top of the transaxle housing about 5,000 miles after the warranty expired. I picked up some JB Weld, ground down the edges of the crack and applied liberal amounts of the stuff to it. That was in 1993, it held and never leaked a drop for the next 7 years and 150k miles.
03-10-2014, 07:49 PM
#12
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JB Weld story...
I had a 1990 Nissan Sentra that developed a large crack in the top of the transaxle housing about 5,000 miles after the warranty expired. I picked up some JB Weld, ground down the edges of the crack and applied liberal amounts of the stuff to it. That was in 1993, it held and never leaked a drop for the next 7 years and 150k miles.
I had a 1990 Nissan Sentra that developed a large crack in the top of the transaxle housing about 5,000 miles after the warranty expired. I picked up some JB Weld, ground down the edges of the crack and applied liberal amounts of the stuff to it. That was in 1993, it held and never leaked a drop for the next 7 years and 150k miles.
and im tempted to put the MC on my bike. its so much better than the nissin i have now. But i have a really bad cause of Motochondria. thats a term i came up with relation to the condition known as hypochondria which is where a person always thinks something is wrong with them or they are sick. i tend to constantly think my bikes bound to blow up in the next 60 seconds.
so i dont wanna worry myself by constantly looking down at my brake lever to make sure everything is intact. and knowing that its only an epoxy, albeit a very very good one, i feel like the more i use the brakes, and as time passes it will only get weaker. id rather stick with my fully functional nissin until i can possibly get the thing welded.
03-18-2014, 09:10 PM
#13
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jscobey I was going to tell you to send a few pics to Brembo because there good at asking for broken parts back so they can figure out why it broke where it did.
In the past they have shipped me a new item / part in one day with a return postage paid box, now that you super glued it I doubt they will want it back...
JMO/SIRR1
In the past they have shipped me a new item / part in one day with a return postage paid box, now that you super glued it I doubt they will want it back...
JMO/SIRR1
03-18-2014, 09:31 PM
#14
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jscobey I was going to tell you to send a few pics to Brembo because there good at asking for broken parts back so they can figure out why it broke where it did.
In the past they have shipped me a new item / part in one day with a return postage paid box, now that you super glued it I doubt they will want it back...
JMO/SIRR1
In the past they have shipped me a new item / part in one day with a return postage paid box, now that you super glued it I doubt they will want it back...
JMO/SIRR1
its worth emailing Magura to see if they have any interest in replacing it. nothing to loose.
03-19-2014, 09:00 PM
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TIG welder. You might try to find someone competent with a tig welder. They might be able to weld it. It might even look cool. The JB weld is too ghetto.
03-19-2014, 10:06 PM
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well i cantacted Magura and what do you know... they are going to send me a new one! they want the old one to evaluate it to see where they can improve future models. thanks for the tip S1RR1!
03-20-2014, 07:48 AM
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03-20-2014, 12:55 PM
#18
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They mailed it off today and I should have it mid next week. Awesome customer service from Magura. They even said I could keep the brake lever from my current set up so I have a spare.
Plus they sent it today and I havnt even sent them my old one yet. They were awesome to deal with.
Plus they sent it today and I havnt even sent them my old one yet. They were awesome to deal with.
03-26-2014, 08:56 PM
#19
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and VIOLA! just like that a new Magura radial 190 MC! plus they let me keep my old lever as a spare! really nice guys over there. no fuss at all.
told them what happened and they sent me a new one. I really owe you one S1RR1.
told them what happened and they sent me a new one. I really owe you one S1RR1.
03-28-2014, 07:37 PM
#21
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really impressed on the braking power this MC has. it uses a 20mm piston and the stopping power is incredible. im not sure of the piston size on the stock unit but its visibly much smaller than the magura.
really glad i was able to get my hand on it.
now ill be able to really get a feel for it at the track tomorow
really glad i was able to get my hand on it.
now ill be able to really get a feel for it at the track tomorow
03-28-2014, 08:07 PM
#22
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Magura is indeed nice stuff... good to know they stand behind it too.
As for the stopping power, just be aware that it all boils down to physics, and that generally a firm(er) lever is in fact LESS powerful (but requires less travel) while a "soft" lever is the opposite (more travel, but delivers more line pressure, which produces more squeeze by the pistons). In the end, it's all about finding the feel you like....
As for the stopping power, just be aware that it all boils down to physics, and that generally a firm(er) lever is in fact LESS powerful (but requires less travel) while a "soft" lever is the opposite (more travel, but delivers more line pressure, which produces more squeeze by the pistons). In the end, it's all about finding the feel you like....
Last edited by mikstr; 03-28-2014 at 08:11 PM.
03-28-2014, 08:13 PM
#23
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Magura is indeed nice stuff... good to know they stand behind it too.
As for the stopping power, just be aware that it all boils down to physics, and that generally a firm(er) lever is in fact LESS powerful (but requires less travel) while a "soft" lever is the opposite (more travel, but delivers more line pressure, which produces more squeeze by the pistons). In the end, it's all about finding the feel you like....
As for the stopping power, just be aware that it all boils down to physics, and that generally a firm(er) lever is in fact LESS powerful (but requires less travel) while a "soft" lever is the opposite (more travel, but delivers more line pressure, which produces more squeeze by the pistons). In the end, it's all about finding the feel you like....
what do you mean by "more firm" and "less firm"?
03-28-2014, 08:22 PM
#24
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Feel at the lever.... I have noticed over time that many confuse effort required at the lever with braking power (when the opposite is true, ie. physics dictates that the relationship is actually inverse)....
03-28-2014, 09:00 PM
#25
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well im still not sure what you mean. are you say smaller piston is better? or...
i can say the old setup was a short pull and very FIRM. the new MC seems to be more on the "soft" side. more lever pull but more power as well
regardless what im saying is if i pulled my brake lever with the same force and the same distance as i did with my old setup, the bike would be on its nose.
and it doesnt feel wooden like the old MC. feels like there's a sharper relationship between my finger tips and the caliper pistons. also it seems to be able modulate the braking force better. as in the more i pull the lever, the more braking power i get (i know your saying DUHHHH) but what i mean is it seems to not be as much an "all or nothing" type deal. a small variance in the pressure translates into a difference in stopping power.
i can say the old setup was a short pull and very FIRM. the new MC seems to be more on the "soft" side. more lever pull but more power as well
regardless what im saying is if i pulled my brake lever with the same force and the same distance as i did with my old setup, the bike would be on its nose.
and it doesnt feel wooden like the old MC. feels like there's a sharper relationship between my finger tips and the caliper pistons. also it seems to be able modulate the braking force better. as in the more i pull the lever, the more braking power i get (i know your saying DUHHHH) but what i mean is it seems to not be as much an "all or nothing" type deal. a small variance in the pressure translates into a difference in stopping power.
03-29-2014, 06:31 AM
#26
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Awesome to hear of their excellent customer service. I love companies like that. I had a similar experience with Ballistic Batteries, their recommend 4 cell didn't last on my race bike. I sent a letter, and received a call from the owner, who had a 8 cell send out at no charge. I won't buy any other battery now, they won a customer for life.
I was going to say welding would be the only thing I'd trust on that,and the JB weld you applied would have made the welding job much more difficult.. Glad to hear they replaced it for you.
I was going to say welding would be the only thing I'd trust on that,and the JB weld you applied would have made the welding job much more difficult.. Glad to hear they replaced it for you.
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