another day another issue
 

so made it out of the driveway for the first time. ran it over to a friends house and everything seemed fine.. went to the gas station filled it up and headed to a straight road.. ran the throttle upto 7k and it seemed fine back down to around 5 and cursing along the it started to hesitate.. turned it around and headed for home.. made it a very short distance before the motor quit.. coasted along (no traffic) pulled the choke and it fired right up again.. but it wasn't running well. around 3k rpm it seemed ok.. but as soon as you got it up to 5k you could feel it surging either lack of fuel or lack of spark.. it was like one cylinder was working 100% and the other one was just limping along and every now and then it kicked in.. very distinctive feel when the 2nd cylinder turned on and off again.. going through the neighbourhood I didn't have enough power to leave a stop sign with out slipping the clutch until the bike catches up to the motor... just no power..
any suggestions?
dumb question here.. but -petcock.. what way do you turn it to turn it on? right now it's full counter clockwise.. is that right?

Search is your friend:

https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...es-pics-22048/

yes and it was!!
not only did I find the proper position.. but I discovered a nipple on the back of a the pet cock that I didn't know existed!! and aparently that's where the vaccume hose goes..

so what the HE double hocky stick did connecting the vacumme to that pipe do? and the fact that the bike did run for over an hour hooked up like this
Attachment 24210


so this is the proper way to hook it up I understand
https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...es-pics-22048/

the pic on this page,the hose is in the wrong place.
the rear of the petcock pic is the correct way.
the nipple in the back.
and yes,its not good,but it can run that way,there was one guy who ran it like that for months on end,dont know how,but he was lucky.

I do by moving it to the right spot it fixes the problem I'm having.

it should fix it.have you put it on the back nipple yet and tested it.

If an S'Hawk runs for months with the vacuum hose on the wrong port of the petcock, it has to mean a seriously leaking petcock - right?

Another victim of PVLIR.

Are you guys talking about the one facing down? My set up looks like the last picture.

Manny, if your hooked up like the last picture, your set up is wrong.
It's the nipple facing the seat, that points to the left of the bike that needs to be hooked up.

Is this a common thing? I bought it this way, maybe the PO connected it wrong. I have to take a look and fix it

I did a new petcock diaphragm the other week an it seemed close to impossible to mix up the hoses...all were different diameters an only went one place...except the two side hoses but they should be obvious cause their curved.
Maybe op needs a new diaphragm? Symptoms appear similar...

moved the hose to the right spot.. ideal is well it works!! and that's new for me.. before it wouldn't ideal for more then minute with out stalling and then you had to choke it and roll for a while before it would start again.. haven’t had a chance to take it for a run yet but I'm very optimistic that it's going to work!
fingers crossed
thanks for the kind comments!

The good news is the motor is running great!! and my first spirited twist of the wrist left me white knuckled and smiling ear to ear!! that damn thing goes!!
BUT -On to the next problem..
As the motor warmed the clutch began to slip, so I read and read on this last night, but one thing I was thinking was not listed so I thought I would just ask

QUESTION
I replaced the leavers,
Cheap ebay leavers
https://www.superhawkforum.com/forums/general-discussion-30/cheapo-ebay-leavers-25103/

When the clutch leaver installs the piston is pushed in a very small amount in order to get the pin(bolt) to go through and mount the leaver, this pressure can not be released as the leaver is at full extension..
1. is this normal?
2. I bled the lines and notice as soon as I opened the bleeder screw fluid shot out.

Based on # 2 I’m thinking that the clutch was partially engaged even when my hand was off the leaver and I needed to bleed off this pressure before I road?

NOTE:
The fluid was not fluid.. it was thick paste.. never seen anything like that before.. basically just mud.. I flushed the lines all new fluid – have not rode it as I did this last night.

Oil- I used the oil I use in my SV650, Rottela T6 Synthetic 5W30. Could the oil be the cause of my problem?

Thanks again

The oil shouldn't be the problem, it probably is the lever.

should releasing the pressure solve the problem? the other option is I cut the "Push Rod" that is pushing on the piston

Attachment 24208

you shouldnt have to cut anything,by cutting it,you will have almost no movement,probably none.
you should try bleeding it thru again,or make sure you got the right lever installed on there.
the clutch doesnt have far to travel in the first place,have you rode the motorcycle yet to see if it gives any problems shifting.
but overall,you should just make sure its bled thru properly and test ride it.if there is no grinds or anything like that,i would think its good to go.

If you have to grind something grind the lever at the contact point, and if the old fluid was as bad a you say a rebuild kit would be in order.

My bad that is what you were talking about grinding.

I would flush that system a few times with fresh fluid, then refill and bleed. Depending on your temperatures the 5w could cause slight slipping, but that is not very likely. You should know that these clutches engage very near mid release of the lever, and don't fully engage until around 3/4 release, so don't let that throw you off.

Bleed the system properly, and then bleed at the top banjo bolt as well... It's very likely that it's just air in the system and nothing wrong with your levers...

Issues are over!! New fluid solved the problem!! Clutch is hooking up perfectly. So finally I can say I have a fully functional SUPERHAWK!!!

Thanks again for all he help!

Something I find on ALL bikes that I have picked up over the years is that nobody seems to realize that the pivot points on the lever also require lubrication. I have felt some really notchy, grabby, squeaky levers over the years. Do yourself a favor and lube both clutch and brake levers at ALL the pivot/contact points. Clean off all the old gunk too. You'll be happy you did.